What would y'all use for a street car? What's more important to replace, upper or lower, both? Urethane vs rubber, which way to go? Has anyone had success w the cheap sve type packages?
Rear Control Arms. Is The An Alternative To Mm's Break The Bank Prices?
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It's generally not the arms that turn me away with some of the manufacturers, but the bushings they use. Maximum Motorsports, Steeda and J&M utilize a patented 3-piece bushing design to reduce binding. My HP Motorsport Megabite Jr's do as well, but they've been out of business a few years now. I just happened to find a brand new set floating around out there and jumped on them. Mine also have spherical rod ends on one side to completely eliminate binding and do their job quite well.
The Steeda arms are probably your next best bet for the money. The adjustable ones are nice, but not completely necessary. Great for squaring up the rear end, and setting pinion angle, but it you don't plan on spending a lot of time at the track, you probably will never need them.
That being said, plenty have had great success with some of the lower end arms like UPR, BBK, etc. Stay away from the solid bushing, or cheaper urethane designs unless a harsh ride, or squeaky operation appeals to you.
I'd replace both at once when you're ready. Pretty much any of them will be an improvement over stock.
The Steeda arms are probably your next best bet for the money. The adjustable ones are nice, but not completely necessary. Great for squaring up the rear end, and setting pinion angle, but it you don't plan on spending a lot of time at the track, you probably will never need them.
That being said, plenty have had great success with some of the lower end arms like UPR, BBK, etc. Stay away from the solid bushing, or cheaper urethane designs unless a harsh ride, or squeaky operation appeals to you.
I'd replace both at once when you're ready. Pretty much any of them will be an improvement over stock.
I have old Steeda ones with one piece Urethane bushings. They don't squeak or bind. The ride is going to be harder than rubber ones. I don't think spherical rod ends are a good idea on a car you drive a lot. Dirt will get inside the rod end and wear it out. I would buy from a manufacturer with a decent reputation. There are a lot of imported rip offs out there now that it's hard to determine the quality on. It's not a good place to save money. If a control arm weld snaps, it can lead to a very nasty accident, and it has happened on some of these cheap control arms.
Kurt
Kurt
when dealing with suspension parts, dont cheap out, it isnt worth it. my advice would be to grab a set of stock control arms and box them, and install a set of energy suspension bushings. that is the cheapest way to go.
flstang65
10 Year Member
For a street car I like these: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-rear-control-arm-suspension-kit.html
flstang65
10 Year Member
Torque box reinforcements are always a good idea, but I wouldn't consider them an absolute necessity unless you plan on adding traction to the mix. Hooking up is what really kills them.
Not absolute but I think with the stiffer LCA they will take a good beating unless it is a 4 cyl but then they don't produce enough power to break a cereal box.
No. A machine shop, 4wd shop, suspension, driveshaft shop could do it for you usually for a few bucks or some beer. Some of the better ones will just want return business for such a small job. Those are usually the better ones.
Someone with a regular old press could help ya too
Someone with a regular old press could help ya too
It's actually soft tires that kill them. It's not the hole shot that really messes up the torque box so much as the other end of the quarter mile. Slicks and near slicks have soft sidewalls, which causes the rim to move back in forth inside the tire when the car gets up to speed. That swaying back and forth causes that control arm to work on the torque box like a lever twisting it back and forth which messes it up.
You don't need a bushing press to put in new bushings. It really helps, but it's not a necessity.
Kurt
Truth. A bench vice a pile of wheel bearing brease a couple of 1x4" slats of wood was all it took to get mine in.
If you can't get them in with this method, the real trick is to put the bushing in the freezer for a half an hour or so first. They'll not only shrink a tad, but harden a little making them easier to press in without distorting.
Any good tricks for getting the old ones out of the top of the pumpkin? (for the uppers)I need to change those, I was just going drill the old ones out and create some sort of tool with threaded rod to get the new ones in.
That's how most do it. That, or burn them out with a torch. Makes a hell of a stink though.
Maximum Motorsports sells a removal tool....but it's up to you if you want to spend $30+shipping on a tool you'll probably ever only use once?
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Rear-Upper-Control-Arm-Bushing-Tool-P190.aspx
It can be a pickle. You take a drill bit, and drill them out. Let that drill bit eat. It will spin around the sleeve in the center of the bushing tearing up the rubber. Sometimes you get a lot of rubber that sticks to the housing. I usually just light it on fire and burn it off. Keep a fire extinguisher handy though.
Kurt
Kurt
man..i just bought the sve control arms,and torque box reinforcements......sitting in a box in my garage...lol
I've read mixed reviews. Most that bought em said they were decent enough and none were killed I don't think
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