Rear End leak
- Thread starter 5.0GT-Neal
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You asked for it....
Lets see..pop the dif cover to drain the fluid...pull the DS, remove the pinion nut, matchmark and pull the hub the DS bolts to...the seal is right there....remove and replace it...install the hub(on your matchmark) and pinion nut....that nut has to be re-torqued to set the pinion preload correctly...if done incorrectly, it could be trouble...air gun makes it easier to remove and install the pinion nut...
tighten the nut carefully, you cant crank it til its tight....you wind it down, then when almost at the end, take only small turns on the nut...you want to tighten it til you have a "slight" drag to turn the pinion...
just go slow and don't over tighten it...it has to have no "in and out" play and have a slight drag to rotate...
with the rear all assembled, IE, the dif in the case and axles/wheels on, i would use a TQ wrench and see at what lb the pinion nut "clicks" off at before i removed it...when reassembled you would want that same TQ to know you have "preloaded" the bearing correctly...
if you haven't dubbed around with this type of stuff, you may just wanna have it done....
to me, its harder to explain than do....hope that helps???
Lets see..pop the dif cover to drain the fluid...pull the DS, remove the pinion nut, matchmark and pull the hub the DS bolts to...the seal is right there....remove and replace it...install the hub(on your matchmark) and pinion nut....that nut has to be re-torqued to set the pinion preload correctly...if done incorrectly, it could be trouble...air gun makes it easier to remove and install the pinion nut...
tighten the nut carefully, you cant crank it til its tight....you wind it down, then when almost at the end, take only small turns on the nut...you want to tighten it til you have a "slight" drag to turn the pinion...
just go slow and don't over tighten it...it has to have no "in and out" play and have a slight drag to rotate...
with the rear all assembled, IE, the dif in the case and axles/wheels on, i would use a TQ wrench and see at what lb the pinion nut "clicks" off at before i removed it...when reassembled you would want that same TQ to know you have "preloaded" the bearing correctly...
if you haven't dubbed around with this type of stuff, you may just wanna have it done....
to me, its harder to explain than do....hope that helps???
go-stang5.0
New Member
I forget what it looks like in there....do you need to take out the diff. and stuff to get at the pinion? Or can you get at it directly. I ask because I have a leake coming from the rear end. Hoping its just the cover gasket but it could be my pinion seal too. Oh and something you guyz might want to know....FRPP makes a reusable rubber gasket for our rear covers now. No more RTV. It has a list price in the catalog of 10 bux, so I 'm sure you can pick one up from summit or something for like 6 or 7 bux. Oh and consider getting synthetic gear oil while your at it. Lemme see if I can find that part # for that rear end seal.
GulfCoastMustang
Founding Member
go-stang5.0 said:
Hey, could you check for that part #? I'm tired of using paper gaskets and I can't get my cover to seal with just RTV. Ratech makes reuseable gaskets, but only for the 9" diff, not the 8.8
http://www.ratechmfg.com/regasket.htm
GulfCoastMustang
Founding Member
Ok, I answered my own question. FRPP's number is M-4211-A.
It's available at Summit for $10.99. Their Part Number is FMS-M-4211-A
It's available at Summit for $10.99. Their Part Number is FMS-M-4211-A
go-stang5.0
New Member
go-stang5.0
New Member
HEy rio, roughly how much was your nut torqued to? Just trying to get an estimate so I know what I'm in for. Hopefully its not like 100 ft-lbs 
That would be a pain in the ass.
That would be a pain in the ass.
When my Dad set up the rear in my car, he torqued it to about 16 in/lbs. Which is somewhere in the neighborhood of 180 ft/lbs. It takes some elbow grease to get it tight. He had to use a long wrench and a pipe around the bottom for extra leverage. I would think that you would need to replace the crush collar too. Crush collars are only meant to be "crushed" once and it has already been crushed. When you loosen the pinion nut, that is going to take all that force off the crush collar. This stuff is too hard to explain, I just know how to do it...ask RIO, he's good at this kind of stuff.
Joe
Joe
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