MM is the way to go IMO since they are the most durable on the street & strip...Im sure UPR's are good, but i have heard some horror stories about them breaking welds, but Im sure its hit or miss....
I went with Lakewood LCAs with the action lift bars. Unfortunately I haven't got the chance to test them out at the track yet but theyve worked great for DD. Just make sure you put some grease on the bushings.
I went with Lakewood LCAs with the action lift bars. Unfortunately I haven't got the chance to test them out at the track yet but theyve worked great for DD. Just make sure you put some grease on the bushings.
I've only had the car dyno'd when i got it dyno tuned for the cams. With the cams and MAC CAI(trash), MAC off road H, weld in flowmasters and an XCAL2, it made 265hp/285tq with a mild tune. Broad torque curve and not peaked. That was on a dyno dynamics, which reads similar to a Mustang Dyno. They are aggressive cams that pull hard up top. So the more your mods match upper rpm's (like longtubes) the better results you will get. Updated numbers might be soon.
I'll try and get some vids this weekend. If i get some pics, the gold action lift bars shining from under the rear end might have you forget the MM ones
MM's with the delrin bearing at one end or the Griggs with delrin bearing. Do not get control arms with poly bushings on both ends.
It can lead to what is called snap over steer and it can be very scary when it does happen. It feels like all of the weight of the rear of the car swaps sides close to the apex of a turn.