Rear leaf spring eye bolt cannot be cut

[67goldmustang]

This is my first time so be gentle.

I am in the process of replacing the leaf springs on my 67 mustang. Using a sawzall I cut through the eye bolts in the rear with no issues, but when I tried to cut through the front bolt with the sleeve I had no luck. Even after going to Canadian Tire and getting a new saw blade I didn't even make a scratch, I just dulled the blade. The sleeve around the bolt seems to be my major issue here.

I've tried various other methods of removing the bolt, including trying to pound it out from the other end. Is there something else I need to be trying? Is there too much shear force on the bolt? Any advice helps.

-Newbie

 

[golf4283]

Oh I remember trying to get mine out of my '66. What a PITA!!!!. Honestly just get a sawzall and get the strongest blade they make. I forget what they used as the strongest ones. Get lots of them and just keep hacking away at it. If worse comes to worse then you can cut the leaf spring off just before the mount ant then cut pieces of the mount off so it falls off and then cut the bolt.

A grinder will also work with this.

It's such a pain under there but you'll get it with some patience.

 

[jcode68]

Titanium blades for the sawzall should do the trick. No fun getting those bolts out...

 

[palerider94]

+1 on Golfs recommendation. Basically bolt has fused to hardened metal sleeve. Just got to keep cutting at it.

I did see a post somewhere that someone rigged up a way to press it out by using another bolt and a sleeve with threads on both ends. Was trying to find the post but not having any luck. I just remember seeing it and thinking that may be worth a try.

 

[67goldmustang]

+1 on Golfs recommendation. Basically bolt has fused to hardened metal sleeve. Just got to keep cutting at it.

I did see a post somewhere that someone rigged up a way to press it out by using another bolt and a sleeve with threads on both ends. Was trying to find the post but not having any luck. I just remember seeing it and thinking that may be worth a try.

I know what you're talking about with using another bolt. I tried something similar using a screw jack to try to push out the bolt but no luck.

Looks like brute force is the overwhelming verdict. And if it doesn't work, just use more.

Another question: anyone know of a reasonably priced rear suspension kit (leaf springs/shocks/shackles/bushings/eye bolts and U bolts etc)? Preferably one that is in Canada (west coast) to minimize shipping cost.

 

[jcode68]

I know what you're talking about with using another bolt. I tried something similar using a screw jack to try to push out the bolt but no luck.

Looks like brute force is the overwhelming verdict. And if it doesn't work, just use more.

Another question: anyone know of a reasonably priced rear suspension kit (leaf springs/shocks/shackles/bushings/eye bolts and U bolts etc)? Preferably one that is in Canada (west coast) to minimize shipping cost.

Mustangs Plus is your best bet. They are on the West coast and have complete kits with good prices.

 

[D.Hearne]

I used a cutting torch to remove em. Nothing like white-hot heat to cut thru hardened steel

 

[coolblue65]

I used an air hammer to push the bolt out, I fought with it for ever until I tried that, then it was out in seconds.

 

[rbohm]

I used a cutting torch to remove em. Nothing like white-hot heat to cut thru hardened steel

I used an air hammer to push the bolt out, I fought with it for ever until I tried that, then it was out in seconds.

these are probably the most effective ways to get the old bolt out at this point, smoke wrench and an air hammer. dont give up they really do come apart, eventually.

 

[htwheelz67]

a makita grinder with a thin wheel works pretty good cuts like butter.

 

[zookeeper]

Don't hate me, but mine came out as if they were put in last week. I feel lucky after reading some of these stories...

 

[blown65]

Don't hate me, but mine came out as if they were put in last week. I feel lucky after reading some of these stories...

Same with mine, orig springs + air impact. Came right off and out.

 

[golf4283]

I tried the bolt method of pushing it through from the outside and it failed just as bad as my original attempts to cut it. You seriously just gotta be patient and you'll start making progress eventually. As much as it stinks to feel like your getting nowhere.

 

[rbohm]

Don't hate me, but mine came out as if they were put in last week. I feel lucky after reading some of these stories...

Same with mine, orig springs + air impact. Came right off and out.

you two need to die a horrible death and end up in hell where you have to change leaf springs on vintage mustangs where the bolts are rusted in place forever.




































































j/k

 

[2+2GT]

Glazier Nolan sells OEM show-correct GT leaf springs for $185, complete with shackles, U bolts, and eye bolts.

To get a tough spring off, use your whiz wheel to cut the leaf off, then spin the eye 180° and cut opposit the gap, and remove the steel. Now whiz your way through the bushing and eye bolt. Be careful of the frame bracket.

 

[stonecoldtx]

I read on another forum that lots of folks just use heavy-duty carbide blades that don't have actual teeth--only abrasive material on them.

Some people said they went through two blades on each side . . . don't know how much the blades cost, or where they got them, but they said they worked in cutting through the bolts.

 

[66 4D 289]

Another question: anyone know of a reasonably priced rear suspension kit (leaf springs/shocks/shackles/bushings/eye bolts and U bolts etc)? Preferably one that is in Canada (west coast) to minimize shipping cost.

Have you tried these guys

Mustang Performance Parts and Classic Mustang Parts in Canada

They don't have any kits listed on their website but have all the parts you need for the job you're doing. They're based in Calgary. Not exactly the west coast but it's better than Nova Scotia

 

[Rusty67]

Mine came out without issue on my 67....

Is the problem that the bolts are rusted to the frame ? I would think that if you can get the shank of the bolt to turn that it would be a non issue when it comes to geting the bolt shank out. You might want to try supporting the eye of the leaf where the bolt goes through, if the bushing is jacked and geting side loaded by the spring, that could be a major contributor to the bolt not coming out. Hit it with some liquid wrench or kroil and then get a bigass wrench/breaker bar and see if you can get the bolt to at least rotate.

Might want to let the penatrating oil sit for 15 minutes and then come back, spray it again and smack it with a copper sledge a few times before you try breaking it loose.

 

[2+2GT]

Is the problem that the bolts are rusted to the frame ? I would think that if you can get the shank of the bolt to turn that it would be a non issue when it comes to geting the bolt shank out.

No , there's a steel tube inside the rubber eye bushing, to keep it from getting crushed on installation. Over time, up here in the rust belt, the sleeve rust welds itself to the bolt. The sleeve won't fit through the holes, of course, but the bolt will usually spin freely.

 

[Rusty67]

I see. Maybe some antisieze on the shank of the bolt would be a good idea to prevent future rust issues ?