Rebuild Factory Spool or buy new Solid Spool?

[90mustangGT]

The right tire has been spinning alot more than the left, and it's been getting worse. I am not sure what to do. Should I get a trac-loc rebuild kit or should I get a solid spool. I know a solid spool would definatly fix this but running a lot more expensive because I will have to get 31 or 33 spline axels and C-clip eliminators. I know I will eventually get them but is it worth it now or will a rebuilt trac-loc do just as well? My car is being set up for drag, and isn't a D/D. I don't run slicks yet but will one day.

BTW: I am aware of the cons of a solid spool.

 

[stangbear427]

If it never goes around corners, then a spool is just what the doctor ordered. I had my trac lock rebuilt, it wasn't exactly cheap- but it's a D/D. If you know you will be running lots of power in a dedicated drag car later on, you may as well spend a little more now and save in the long run by only having to do it once. Build the car to handle it now, you'll just break it later if you don't. If you shop around, you may find that it isn't that much more.

 

[Michael Yount]

Actually, a spooled, or locked, rear end works well in any dedicated racer - road course or autocross as well as drag racer. One of the biggest improvements made on my road race/autocross car was locking the rear end up - which we did by welding up the spyder gears (same impact as a spool piece but cheaper and like a vasectomy - reversible only at great cost). I would pick up the right rear tire in right hand turns, leaving me without traction. The locked rear end solved that, and made the handling more predictable.

It's low speed, sharp turns that have the tires making all kinds of racket as the inner and outer tires want to turn at different speeds but the spool won't let them. I would never put a spool or locker rear end in a daily driver - probably wouldn't put one in any of my street cars. But - that's an individual choice. I agree with stangbear - if you know you're headed there and you understand the downside - don't waste the money on the tracloc.

 

[90NotchBack]

I run a spool and I drive the car every single day to work. It is my daily driver. My dad told me I would hate it on the street but nope it is great. I can make U turns and everything but the inside tire barks. But I like it.

 

[ratrapp]

you may run a spool on the street but sharp turns and especially backing up is hard on your axles and will eventually break the belts in the tires just like a car trailer does from the lack of inner and outer tires being able to freewheel around a turn.

 

[hllon4whls]

A friend had a mini spool in one of his hot street cars. He pulled into the sonic on cruise night and broke 3 of the 5 lug nut bolts clean off. You can run a spool for a while on the street, but one day there is a good chance it will catch up with you. It can also cause you to lose control in a gentle curve if it is wet. It will want to walk around on you.

 

[90mustangGT]

I think I'll go with the solid spool of some kind.

I was looking in the catalog and saw the mini spool. How do they work, just replaces the internals where the clutches and spider gears used to go? Seems alot cheaper, won't have to replace axels and all.

 

[SlowGT]

you may run a spool on the street but sharp turns and especially backing up is hard on your axles and will eventually break the belts in the tires just like a car trailer does from the lack of inner and outer tires being able to freewheel around a turn.

Interesting note on the tires. The theory's sound. You know anybody that's had those issues on a car? I'd be interested in the details of their rearend setups and tire brands/sizes. My tires don't usually last long enough to worry about it anyway.

 

[90NotchBack]

I like the spool in my racecar and my street car. It is cheap and simple. I've had it in there for two years. Strange spool and axles and ARP studs. Works great for me.

 

[90NotchBack]

A mini spool wont work with your rearend. They don't work with trac-lock they only work with open rearend. The mini spool wont fit inside the trac-lock.

 

[ratrapp]

i have a mini spool in my 69 nova with a 9inch but it hasn't been street driven in 3 years.i'm like you my tires don't last long enough to find out.but on car trailers that have 6 or even 8 ply tires i replace them all the time from belts braking because of a straight axle that doesn't allow for free wheeling around turns.if you drove in a straight line 100% of the time i'm sure you would be fine but how often does that happen.

 

[stangbear427]

Not to blow the mission and go off topic, but out of curiosity- how are the fumes with those dumps? My Flowpaths are sawzalled off, strait out the back, no downpipe at all- and they are starting to get to me. Just wondering how much pipe I'd need to weld on there to improve the atmosphere.

 

[90NotchBack]

Not to blow the mission and go off topic, but out of curiosity- how are the fumes with those dumps? My Flowpaths are sawzalled off, strait out the back, no downpipe at all- and they are starting to get to me. Just wondering how much pipe I'd need to weld on there to improve the atmosphere.

When I got my exhaust done I have no X or H pipe. The guy cut them so that they are slightly facing each other it make it a little quieter. The exhaust cancel out each other making a quitter sound. I have no problem with fumes. It goes right to the ground and out back. I will lighten up the pic so you can see better.

 

[90NotchBack]

 

[GTmustang00]

ive heard of some guys angleing the tips at a 45 degree angle pointing toward the outside of the car.

 

[90mustangGT]

Thanks for all the imput everyone. I'm glad 90NotchBack said something about the mini spool. I'd rather replace the whole unit because that stock carrier is very heavy. I'm looking at the Strange setup like 90NotchBack mentioned, it's a lightweight pro series and isn't very expensive but I'll have to get some Strange 31 spline axels, and since the stress will be higher on the rear end I think ARP bolts along with a support girtle end cover and ARP lugstuds should come into play. Since I want to change wheels and might as well do a 5 lug conversion maby get some Welds in 5 lug with ARP studs on 5 lug axels. This may cost alot but I'm in this for the long run and I want things done right, even if a second job is needed to make it happen.

I'll at least go this far for $570
Strange Solid Spool: $190
Strange Axel Package: $380 (includes axels, c-clip elems, stud kit)
From there going 5 lug will require different drums, wheels, and tires.
Maby not right away but down the road I'll get the diff cover.

I don't even want to add it all up. OMG the more you mod the more expensive it gets.

 

[89MustangGX]

I have a Strange package in my red car as well -- very high quality stuff.

I started with their P2000FM package - which is Pro-Race axles, Pro-Race spool, c-clip eliminators, and studs. You can get 31 or 33 spline axles for the same price, but if you get 33 spline they are gauranteed for 5-years (what I got). You can also get 4 or 5 lug same price. You can also go with stock length studs or long ones (I went long). I had them press on the c-clip eliminators which was $10 - but probably worth it. I also had them pocket mill the flanges fo the axles to save weight, which was $75, but every bit counts, right? I also got one of their stud girdles, and put in FMS 4.30 gears. I had the axle tubes welded as well.

I don't know how much better you really need to go than that -- it should handle just about anything I could ever throw at it.

Pic of axles installed - can also see c-clip eliminators (no brakes on in this pic).

 

[90mustangGT]

I have a Strange package in my red car as well -- very high quality stuff.

I started with their P2000FM package - which is Pro-Race axles, Pro-Race spool, c-clip eliminators, and studs. You can get 31 or 33 spline axles for the same price, but if you get 33 spline they are gauranteed for 5-years (what I got). You can also get 4 or 5 lug same price. You can also go with stock length studs or long ones (I went long). I had them press on the c-clip eliminators which was $10 - but probably worth it. I also had them pocket mill the flanges fo the axles to save weight, which was $75, but every bit counts, right? I also got one of their stud girdles, and put in FMS 4.30 gears. I had the axle tubes welded as well.

I don't know how much better you really need to go than that -- it should handle just about anything I could ever throw at it.

Pic of axles installed - can also see c-clip eliminators (no brakes on in this pic).

That my friend, is badass!!! How much did it all cost? That's what I want, but probally won't get.