rebuilt 351C

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mitchcj1

New Member

Apr 25, 2005

79

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virginia beach, va

Aug 25, 2005

#1

• Aug 25, 2005

• #1

Got offered a rebuilt 351C for $1300. said complete from top to bottom. I asked what year it came out of and what upgrades it has. what other questions should I ask? Its for a 70 f code with a C-4. Is that even compatible? Price seem ok? Thanks guys!

 

69 Rustang

Member

Jun 9, 2004

307

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16

Orange County California

Aug 25, 2005

#2

• Aug 25, 2005

• #2

Even a stock rebuild would cost more than that, but to find out how real the "top to bottom" part is and to get an idea of what I am buying the questions I would ask are:
Is it a 2 barrel or 4 barrel (heads)?
What intake does it have?
Is it a stock rebuild?
What was done to the heads? (I.E. valve guides, valve springs, retainers, hardened seats, studs, roller rockers...)
What type pistons (forged, cast, ...)
Compression ratio (helps determine what type heads they have (2V will be lower compression unless they have pop up pistons or Aussie heads). 4v generally, but not always will have higher ratio. Bottom line--do they know what the heck they are talking about or was it thrown together/BS on a rebuild?
2 bolt or 4 bolt mains?
High volume or standard oil pump?
Oil restrictors installed?
What cam was installed?
Are accessory drives included? (Pulleys, PS pump, water pump pulley, alternator brackets)

Installation challenges will vary, but you will need new exhaust manifolds/headers, will need to get your exhaust modified. You will need the accessory drive stuff mentioned above as your 302 stuff won't fit. The C4 may need freshening depending on the build of the Cleveland.

 

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mitchcj1

New Member

Apr 25, 2005

79

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virginia beach, va

Aug 25, 2005

#3

• Aug 25, 2005

• #3

Thanks for the relpy. I only asked about half those questions! So it is a 2v, all stock except for a Isky model CL 43262 cam. Reg flow oil pump in the box. Not sure abou the 2 vs. 4 bolts yet. Does that refer to bolts on the motor mounts? And he said he will include an FMX with it. Exhaust/headers to be replaced anyway. came out of a 70 coupe. I think thats a good year for HP, no? Im seriously considering this as my 302 is about half restored but I wanted to get a 351 eventually...

 

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mitchcj1

New Member

Apr 25, 2005

79

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virginia beach, va

Aug 25, 2005

#4

• Aug 25, 2005

• #4

also...

"bored and honed, new freeze plugs, re-grind of
stock crank, all new components in heads including valves and valve
guides."

"new pistons, cam and lifters, rod, main and cam bearings and new oil pump and new gaskets, Engine block was bored .030 over. Heads were re-surfaced and have been reconditioned with new valves, guides . Engine block and heads were properly hot-tanked and magnafluxed prior to machine work and assembly. Rotating assembly was balanced as well."

to quote...

 

mudbilly

Member

Jun 3, 2005

175

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16

South County, Maryland

Aug 25, 2005

#5

• Aug 25, 2005

• #5

sounds like a good deal................does he have the receipts?????

 

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mitchcj1

New Member

Apr 25, 2005

79

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virginia beach, va

Aug 25, 2005

#6

• Aug 25, 2005

• #6

yeah says he has receipts. I got my car from him and he seems like a nice guy that knows what hes talking about. Way more than me anyway.

 

69 Rustang

Member

Jun 9, 2004

307

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Orange County California

Aug 25, 2005

#7

• Aug 25, 2005

• #7

If he has the receipts I would probably buy it if you are in need of a motor. Building it yourself would likely cost more than $1300.

Before you start that motor--check with the cam manufacturer on valve spring requirements to see if they have a required spring for the cam you mentioned. Either that or ask the seller if he installed matched springs to the cam. Otherwise you need to get the springs checked for proper open and seat pressures and for coil bind. Whoever put it together should be able to tell you what they did, but some people throw motors together without checking. If it is a 2 barrel I would generally assume it is a 2 bolt main, the only way to tell that I know of is to pull the oil pan off and count the bolts on the main bearing caps.

 

M

mitchcj1

New Member

Apr 25, 2005

79

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virginia beach, va

Aug 25, 2005

#8

• Aug 25, 2005

• #8

Ok, one other thing, Im starting w. an 8" rear. Any issues there? I emailed insky about the spring questions. Thanks for all the help.

 

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DKWilkins

New Member

Jul 24, 2005

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Dublin, GA

Aug 25, 2005

#9

• Aug 25, 2005

• #9

The 2v heads on the Clevelands make very good street torque; even if it doesn't have 4 bolt mains 2 bolts are fine for most applications unless you are wanting a severe high winding or race motor. Sounds like a great deal to me especially with the FMX thrown in....

 

M

mitchcj1

New Member

Apr 25, 2005

79

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0

virginia beach, va

Aug 25, 2005

#10

• Aug 25, 2005

• #10

Its gonna be mainly a daily driver. Im in Texas so there is lots of space if I get that itch. Should I get different motor mounts? The shock towers are getting ready to be replaced so I could get the diff ones now if I need them. God this is fun, I love this hobby/lifestyle!

 

StangDreamin'

Founding Member

Aug 10, 2002

583

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16

2nd Ocotillo bush east of the Colorado River; Sout

Aug 26, 2005

#11

• Aug 26, 2005

• #11

69 Rustang said:

....If it is a 2 barrel I would generally assume it is a 2 bolt main,

Click to expand...

IF it is indeed a '70 F-code, that's probably true. However, if it's been pulled out of a later model; all bets are off. My (originally) California-smogged 4 door "grocery-getter" '73 Gran Torino came off the line with a Motorcraft 2150 2bbl and four bolt mains and eyebrow pistons. Ford must have been digging up every left-over block they could find at that time.


















And no she wasn't wearing that 2150 when she and I parted ways. A Holley 650 rode away on top of an E-brock Performer under her hood.
Gosh, I miss that car!

 

69 Rustang

Member

Jun 9, 2004

307

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Orange County California

Aug 26, 2005

#12

• Aug 26, 2005

• #12

Which is why I said "generally".

 

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mitchcj1

New Member

Apr 25, 2005

79

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virginia beach, va

Aug 26, 2005

#13

• Aug 26, 2005

• #13

confirmed 2 bolt, apparently 4 bolts were on CJs only? I guess with the above exceptions... Well, thats good news anyhow, no? Now to figure out how to transport. Oh, I think Im going to stick with the C4 until I can get a T-5 ready, and add a hood and a door instead of the FMX. Ill let you know how it turns out!

 

montys69mach

New Member

Sep 11, 2004

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Aug 29, 2005

#14

• Aug 29, 2005

• #14

I just bought a clev for 800 bucks its all rebuilt, and was never fired up since the rebuild. The thing looks brand new. included engine stand, a new rebuilt C6 (also never used) with another tranny he had lying in his garage (not sure what it is). he also gave me a pair of brand new headers, the original air cleaner along with a chrome motorsport one, he had two extra carbs and an extra alternator. The motor is ready to run, carb to pan with all accessories attached. I'm not sure when I'll install it, I would like to restore and detail the engine bay 1st. As far as transporting it home, I did it today with my neighbor and dad, wasn't as bad as we thought. I borrowed a hoist and a wood engine crate from a local shop (friend), and we put everything in my dads pickup. We forgot the tie downs but really didn't need them, it was about a 1/2 hour ride, took it slow and everything worked out fine. Good Luck and let us know how it works out.