Recommendations on Beginning Upgrades

jpctln · Jun 11, 2004

Alright I recently bought a 5.0 (sig), and everything under the hood is bone stock, never touched except for tuneups. It's got over 125k miles, but was driven easily and still runs very strong. I know it's going to need a rebuild sooner or later, but I was looking to check out what kind of under-hood upgrades would be available for this vehicle. What do you guys suggest I do first as far as bolt-ons go?...something I could do myself, as I don't have the equipment to lift an engine right now. I know there are thousands of options, but where should I start? Where should I look? Let me know, thanks.

Blue347stang · Jun 11, 2004

Cold air induction, bigger mass air flow sensor, bigger throttle body (nothing bigger than 70mm), Ignition upgrade, aftermarket headers, off-road h or x-pipe, catback exhaust, rear-end gears (3.55, 3.73, 3.90, 4.10), intake kit,and finally NOS or a supercharger .

Sicarius428 · Jun 11, 2004

Really depends on your budget. Stuff like exhaust and a K&N filter is a good place to start and pretty easy to do.
Kevin

jpctln · Jun 11, 2004

I was thinking about doing a cold air intake first. Point me to some brands and where to shop though. As far as my budget goes...I haven't really decided on that yet...heh. I'm still looking around and just trying to take things slowly right now.

jrichker · Jun 11, 2004

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock air ducting. Wiring plugs right in with no changes.

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$80. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

ECU5.0 · Jun 11, 2004

hey jrichker, do you happen to know the part number for that adaptor? i looked all over their website the other day and could not find it. thanks

tmoss · Jun 11, 2004

jrichker had some good suggestions - gears first. Until you change heads, no need to chjange headers or the stock tubing from the filter to the TB - just use a K&N panel filter and remove the air silencer from behind the filter panel (in the fender) if it's still there. Don't go bigger than 65mm throttle body as the stock upper intake throttle body runner hole is only 63mm, but you could grind off 1mm from the edges of the circle and make it 65mm pretty easy. I'd also leave any ignition improvement for much later - spend your money where you get the most bang for your buck. If youare going to stay with stock heads for a while, port or get your lower intake ported - it's the biggest restriction in your intake/head combination. Paste the link in my signature for more info on the results of porting a lower intake.

jpctln · Jun 11, 2004

jrichker said:
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock air ducting. Wiring plugs right in with no changes.

How about this one? That's the stock 70mm one from a 94-95 GT right? I don't know where to look for that adapter though.

By the way, thanks for all your suggestions so far. I found a couple K&N panels I'll be tracking to see if I can't get one of those for about $20. I'll remove that air silencer too.

ECU5.0 · Jun 11, 2004

yeah, im gettin one of those next week and i need to find the adapter also, i couldnt find it anywhere on pro-m's website

Qwk88LX · Jun 11, 2004

I'd say start with some gears (3.73's or 3.90's), then let the motor breathe better by doing intake & exhaust..& if you can afford it, heads & throttle body. Don't waste your money on a CAI, just replace the filter with a K&N..the aluminum & chrome ones are good conductors of heat..if you have to replace it, get the kit from Moroso which is made from plastic. It wouldn't be a bad idea to install some subframe connectors too.

bmorrisj · Jun 11, 2004

get a chiltons manual...

cleanLX · Jun 11, 2004

weld in sub frame connectors.
aftermarket short throw shifter with stop bolts.
under drive pullies.
K'n'N panel filter in the stock air box... remove fender well silencer.
gears, 3.73's very nice street/strip gear, I love my 4.10's... I've had both.
throttle body is a waste of money on a stocker in my opinion.
I like the way C'n'L's 76mm MAM works with the stock electronics for stocker applications.
Long tube headers are very nice on a stockish motor. Not sure I'd pay for shorties.
Off road H or X, whatever sound you like better.
Cat back for sound and looks.
Stock ingnition is more than adequate... this includes cap/rotor.
If you'd conside intake change, I'd definatly talk to Tom Moss... a few posts up.

Good Luck, have fun!

cleanLX · Jun 11, 2004

dbl post, sorry

jrichker · Jun 11, 2004

ECU5.0 said:
yeah, im gettin one of those next week and i need to find the adapter also, i couldnt find it anywhere on pro-m's website

pro-M has revised their website lately, but here's what I found.

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=224 plastic adapter

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=223 metal adapter.

I got a metal one from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was about a year ago.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673

jpctln · Jun 11, 2004

Do you have to take off the wheel and remove the tire well in order to lower that silencer? Also, where should I start with the timing and how do I know when to stop...sry I'm kinda new.

tmoss · Jun 11, 2004

No, the silencer is held on with bolts from the engine side. Remove the filter box and take a look.

ECU5.0 · Jun 11, 2004

jrichker said:
pro-M has revised their website lately, but here's what I found.

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=224 plastic adapter

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=223 metal adapter.

I got a metal one from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was about a year ago.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673

awesome, thanks man

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