Relocating battery to trunk

YEAHLOH95 · Dec 3, 2005

Am i the only one that thought about the fold down plate not working because it goes up with the trunk ?

urban96 · Dec 3, 2005

YEAHLOH95 said:
Am i the only one that thought about the fold down plate not working because it goes up with the trunk ?

lol good point there, it works on the fox bodys tho since theirs stays in 1 spot

Dan95-5.0 · Dec 3, 2005

why wouldnt it work?

let me know what would cause a problem.

urban96 · Dec 3, 2005

plate is connected to the trunk lid, your wire yould go up and down every time u opend the trunk

nmcgrawj · Dec 3, 2005

All he would have to do it run the wires along the underside of the trunk lid over to the side where the battery is at. It wouldnt be as clean as say a fox install, but it will work just fine with the trunk opening and closing i think.

nmcgrawj · Dec 3, 2005

And is it "legal" to have a optima not in a sealed box?

Dan95-5.0 · Dec 3, 2005

that wont be a problem routing the wires. its not like it hasent been done before.

a person on corral by the name of Fast SN-95

heres a link to his pics

http://www.inductionindustries.com/pix/shane/

or better yet his pics here

http://www.inductionindustries.com/pix/shane/P0001419.JPG

http://www.inductionindustries.com/pix/shane/P0001420.JPG

i would rather run the lines a little more cleaner but if not, this will do just fine. with the trunk fully open the lines will be nice and tight against the inside of the trunk. but once closed, it will be probably hanging down in the trunk. time will tell once the car is out of storage so i can start all my new projects

i think it looks rather trick with the switch hidden behind the plate and with the flip down plate i'll have easy access to it.

thanks for the help guys for straightening all this crap out.

BlackVert · Dec 4, 2005

for a street only car what will never go to the track, is the cut-off switch still a good idea, or can i not worry about it?

xkuntrycowboyx · Dec 4, 2005

wouldn't the direct feed from the alt to the power on the batt, allow the car to continue running if the motor was turning still powering the alt, and continuing to let the motor run... because even if that master switch is cut, the power will still be flowing from the battery pos. straight to the alt.... ??? just how i see it and wondering what u all think, maybe im retarded..

watchu all think???

mytight95 · Dec 5, 2005

Guys, i researched this a little, but when i did mine i ran a power wire from the fuse panel, to the battery....throught the interior(in some shielded sleeve), and into the trunk, and then grounded the battery to the quad shock........seems to do the trick for me......then everything remains stock, except for the location of the battery, never had any charging issues or hard starts or anything like that.....i did use 1/0 power cable though...

jason

jason

Eric94GTvert · Dec 5, 2005

xkuntrycowboyx said:
wouldn't the direct feed from the alt to the power on the batt, allow the car to continue running if the motor was turning still powering the alt, and continuing to let the motor run... because even if that master switch is cut, the power will still be flowing from the battery pos. straight to the alt.... ??? just how i see it and wondering what u all think, maybe im retarded..

watchu all think???

Think of the alt and bat as one item. They are both used to charge and power the distribution (fuse) box. When the switch is in the off position the wire to the fuse box is completely isolated receiving no power. No power means the coil can't fire, fuel pump can't run, car stops dead etc.

Eric94GTvert · Dec 5, 2005

BlackVert said:
for a street only car what will never go to the track, is the cut-off switch still a good idea, or can i not worry about it?

The cut off switch would be 100% unnecessary in a street only car. The reason they are required @ the track is for a track employee to kill all power to the car in case of an accident, which stops the fuel pump and keeps you from burning alive.

BlackVert · Dec 5, 2005

Eric94GTvert said:
The cut off switch would be 100% unnecessary in a street only car. The reason they are required @ the track is for a track employee to kill all power to the car in case of an accident, which stops the fuel pump and keeps you from burning alive.

if i'm in an accident, running around the back to switch off the battery is probably not the first thing i'd be thinking about.

so what i'm getting out of this is that it is more dangerous to have the battery in the trunk, especially for a street car. if that is really the case, then i no longer want to relocate my battery.

thanks for the info.

tim95gt · Dec 5, 2005

having the battery in the trunk is no more dangerous than having it in the engine bay. Basically the cut-off switch is just ading an extra way to kill the power in addition to the ignition key. Mainly so if you wreck the track personel can shut of the car wih out having to try and climb inside to turn it off

nmcgrawj · Dec 5, 2005

tim95gt said:
having the battery in the trunk is no more dangerous than having it in the engine bay. Basically the cut-off switch is just ading an extra way to kill the power in addition to the ignition key. Mainly so if you wreck the track personel can shut of the car wih out having to try and climb inside to turn it off

Having it in the back leaves more room for wires to get pinched and things like that.

But i do agree, the point of the cut-off is because they wouldnt be able to climb inside to turn off the ignition.

But on the street, if u get into THAT bad of a wreck, wouldnt the fuel cut off in the trunk shut the car down?

Eric94GTvert · Dec 5, 2005

nmcgrawj said:
But on the street, if u get into THAT bad of a wreck, wouldnt the fuel cut off in the trunk shut the car down?

Yes, the interia switch would cut the fuel.

Dan95-5.0 · Dec 5, 2005

i was looking at some cutoff switches and found a taylor switch for cheap. it has a Continuous Amps Rating of 180.

i'm thinking about picking it up.

i want to run a switch so this way when i go to the track, they wont be hassling me.

Dan95-5.0 · Feb 18, 2006

alright, what parts am i going to need?

my plan is to run a 175amp switch mounted in the trunk. negative to quad shock. positve to alternator using 2/o welding cable with a inline fuse. positive to kill switch killswitch to fuse box all using 1/o welding cable. then reuse the stock cable from the fuse box to the starter.

what connectors am i going to need?

obvioulsy the battery terminals but what about the eyerings? how many? what size?

anything else i'm going to need?

Monsterbishi · Feb 18, 2006

Cool, I love it when old threads are resurrected

Battery relocation has a couple of factors that need to be considered:

1. If mounted behind the rear axle - it will hurt handling
2. If you're a weight reduction junkie the cable will add a few lbs
3. The cable must be secured to the body at certain intervals depending on your local law - usually it's every 10-12"
4. If your battery/trunk is not sealed - then the battery box must be vented to outside the cabin
5. Check the rules at your local track too, they may require the use of a external sticker to indicate the batterys location to safety marshalls.

YEAHLOH95 · Feb 18, 2006

Monsterbishi said:
Cool, I love it when old threads are resurrected

Battery relocation has a couple of factors that need to be considered:

1. If mounted behind the rear axle - it will hurt handling2. If you're a weight reduction junkie the cable will add a few lbs
3. The cable must be secured to the body at certain intervals depending on your local law - usually it's every 10-12"
4. If your battery/trunk is not sealed - then the battery box must be vented to outside the cabin
5. Check the rules at your local track too, they may require the use of a external sticker to indicate the batterys location to safety marshalls.

it will not hurt handling it will help equal the front to rear weight bias

Relocating battery to trunk

YEAHLOH95

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