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removing emissions equipment

  • Thread starter Thread starter TooFoxy
  • Start date Start date Oct 25, 2005
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TooFoxy

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Oct 25, 2005
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  • Oct 25, 2005
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this weekend i am gonna remove the smog pump and all of the egr gear from my car. i just wanted to check w/ you guys to what all i need to do so i dont over look anything. i know ill need thermactor plugs for my heads and a block off plate for the egr.. and some caps to cap off the extra vaccum lines. but what size belt do i need after i remove the smog pump? i already have an O/R pipe and the air pump tube has been cut and welded shut so that shouldnt be a problem. any other little tips? i also wanna remove the evaprotive canister all i have to do is block off the vaccum lines to it right?
 

sgarlic

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Apr 21, 2001
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Oct 25, 2005
#2
  • Oct 25, 2005
  • #2
84.5" belt for smog removed routing according to the diagram I'm looking at. (This is assuming you still have A/C.)
 

jrichker

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The carbon canister vents fuel vapor into the intake manifold at cruse. This helps richen up the cruse mixture slightly. It also eliminates the gas stink when the car is closed up in the garage or other poorly ventilated place. Don’t park you car in the garage if you have a gas fired water heater, the fuel vapors are a potential explosive hazard.
 

90mustangGT

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  • Oct 25, 2005
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If your removing the EGR system you might want to get a simulator so the computer knows is shut off and doesn't act funny or flash codes at you.
 
F

fiveohGT

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  • Oct 25, 2005
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make sure you go catless too
 
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Nickerz

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  • Jun 5, 2007
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I wanted to revive this topic, I want to get EVERYTHING smog related off my 88GT. How can I do so and keep my computer happy. I also have the AC deleted, so what size belt would I need if I completely had both removed? Otherwise should I be buying the new idler brackets for the pullies instead?

So what to do about
EGR
Offroad pipe (what about the O2 sensors?)
Air system
thermocular? Don't even know.

All I know, is I want all this GARBAGE off my car. All it's doing is throwing codes and failing left and right. My sanity isn't worth my contribution to a cleaner atmosphere. If they want it that bad they need to offer emissions repairs for free.
 

AnthonyR23

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  • Jun 6, 2007
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I don't think you want to get rid of the o2's if you haven't upgraded to mass air I'm pretty sure speed density 88 mustangs computers... need o2's... and removing the egr will not benefit you at all.... It isn't even a pound.. If I were you I would just keep the egr vacuum solenoid... if you are dead set on getting rid of the smog pump.. the just get rid of the tab tad vacuum solenoids... but do remember to cap off the vacuum lines.. pretty sure you'll have to cap off the tube going to the head.
 

vristang

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Mar 31, 2005
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Jun 6, 2007
#8
  • Jun 6, 2007
  • #8
Nickerz said:
All I know, is I want all this GARBAGE off my car. All it's doing is throwing codes and failing left and right. My sanity isn't worth my contribution to a cleaner atmosphere. If they want it that bad they need to offer emissions repairs for free.
Click to expand...

I don't agree at all with that attitude...

Smog pump will gain you a little power, by reducing drag on the crank.

that's it,
EGR doesn't hurt power, and can improve fuel economy.
Cats (if appropriately sized) won't hurt power output.
O2's - it would downright silly to remove them.

Pull the smog pump and install an idler pully so that you can run the same belt...
If anything else is broken (throwing codes), go ahead and fix it...

my opinion,
jason
 

jrichker

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Nickerz said:
I wanted to revive this topic, I want to get EVERYTHING smog related off my 88GT. How can I do so and keep my computer happy. I also have the AC deleted, so what size belt would I need if I completely had both removed? Otherwise should I be buying the new idler brackets for the pullies instead?

So what to do about
EGR
Offroad pipe (what about the O2 sensors?)
Air system
thermocular? Don't even know.

All I know, is I want all this GARBAGE off my car. All it's doing is throwing codes and failing left and right. My sanity isn't worth my contribution to a cleaner atmosphere. If they want it that bad they need to offer emissions repairs for free.
Click to expand...

If you remove the smog gear, my car with full working emissions equipment will still be faster than yours, given that they both have compatible mods. Why? Because I have chosen not to be ignorant and taken the time to learn how the computer works and what the smog gear does.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $25 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...very good, and I found it to be very helpful.
 

95Vert

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Aug 19, 2004
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  • Oct 18, 2008
  • #10
subscribed
 

ID89GT

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Oct 19, 2008
#11
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #11
There is no point to removing the charcoal canister imo. Its plastic, and barely weighs anything at all. All it does it bring in gas vapor from the tank into the manifold so the vapors don't release into the atmosphere.. So you still get to use all your gas instead of lettin it evaporate away
 

Maryland Stang

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Aug 21, 2002
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Oct 19, 2008
#12
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #12
The days of getting away with removing emissions equipment is disappearing faster than you might think. The original poster of this thread will be wishing he still had his equipment in 2010 when they will probably start emissions testing in SC. You can remove it but I wouldn't chuck it.

Charleston, SC Latest Local News: S.C. might require auto emissions tests
 
M

mackey

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Jan 25, 2003
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Oct 19, 2008
#13
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #13
Maryland Stang said:
The days of getting away with removing emissions equipment is disappearing faster than you might think. The original poster of this thread will be wishing he still had his equipment in 2010 when they will probably start emissions testing in SC. You can remove it but I wouldn't chuck it.

Charleston, SC Latest Local News: S.C. might require auto emissions tests
Click to expand...

They will most likely do that for newer cars only. Massachusetts, a state that has very strict emissions, just did away with their pipe tests for cars 95 and older. It has proved too costly for them to keep going on. The machines break way too often.

To original poster:
Need to remove H-pipe, maybe headers if they don't line up to your new h-pipe. Mine did not.
Need to remove Smog pump, get a shorter belt.
I'd leave the EGR, it is not hurting performance at all. If you do remove it you need to buy a tuner which can be costly.
Oxygen Sensors must stay!
 

Maryland Stang

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#14
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #14
mackey said:
They will most likely do that for newer cars only. Massachusetts, a state that has very strict emissions, just did away with their pipe tests for cars 95 and older. It has proved too costly for them to keep going on. The machines break way too often.
Click to expand...

They don't do a tailpipe on pre-ODBII cars here in my county of NC but what they do have is a visual inspection. They gave me a pretty rough time over my catted H since it only had 2 cats.
 

1987stangman

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Jul 12, 2006
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Oct 19, 2008
#15
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #15
Also, some cars will be "grandfathered in" the smog testing. I for one removed my smog pump and all the related thermactor hoses but kept the EGR and the TAB/TAD solenoids. I also went with an off-road H pipe. I live in an area that does not do smog.

Also if you take the O2's off the car and it is SD the car will run like crap and the O2 sensors is not really a smog sensor. The carbon canister is a must keep item too.

Just a thought
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Oct 19, 2008
#16
  • Oct 19, 2008
  • #16
This isn't 1974 where emmissions controls rob power. You can remove all your emmissions stuff and prob only gain 1/2HP just from the smog pump not being run.

If you are getting codes, don't just yank the damn thing out. That's like if your finger hurts, you go and chop it off.
 

Boostedpimp

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May 8, 2003
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Oct 20, 2008
#17
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #17
I'd leave the egr crap alone or if your going to ditch it pickup a block off plate and simulator like what they have here

RJM Injection Tech EGR Eliminators

You can ditch the tad/tab solenoids they'll set an error code but it doesn't effect drive ability or flash the CEL at you just remember to cap the vac lines going to them off.

remove stock h pipe and install whatever other pipe your going with but don't delete the smog pump before you swap out the stock h pipe... if you do then you'll be over heating your stock h pipe cats and will clog up quick or cause a fire.

Remove smog pump and put a idler pulley in it's place or just use a smaller belt.

If you think you can remove your o2 sensors and get some power gains that way you need to really research and learn how cars work before touching one...
 

Boostedpimp

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May 8, 2003
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#18
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #18
I'd leave the egr crap alone or if your going to ditch it pickup a block off plate and simulator like what they have here

RJM Injection Tech EGR Eliminators

You can ditch the tad/tab solenoids they'll set an error code but it doesn't effect drive ability or flash the CEL at you just remember to cap the vac lines going to them off.

remove stock h pipe and install whatever other pipe your going with but don't delete the smog pump before you swap out the stock h pipe... if you do then you'll be over heating your stock h pipe cats and will clog up quick or cause a fire.

Remove smog pump and put a idler pulley in it's place or just use a smaller belt.

If you think you can remove your o2 sensors and get some power gains that way you need to really research and learn how cars work before touching one...
 

NIKwoaC

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#19
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #19
First off, HOLY OLD THREAD, BATMAN!

Secondly:

jrichker said:
If you remove the smog gear, my car with full working emissions equipment will still be faster than yours, given that they both have compatible mods. Why? Because I have chosen not to be ignorant and taken the time to learn how the computer works and what the smog gear does.

...And etc...
Click to expand...

I'm confused by this statement. It was my understanding that Smog and EGR do not operate at WOT, so thermactor pump aside, how does removing the system make my (or anybody else) car slower? If anything, I thought it only affected part-throttle operation.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Oct 20, 2008
#20
  • Oct 20, 2008
  • #20
NikwoaC said:
I'm confused by this statement. It was my understanding that Smog and EGR do not operate at WOT, so thermactor pump aside, how does removing the system make my (or anybody else) car slower? If anything, I thought it only affected part-throttle operation.
Click to expand...


Because most people just yank the stuff off without taking the time to research how to properly bypass a component and it may affect how the computer controls fuel/timing/etc in a negative way.

Most people just simple say "I took my EGR off...i assume it runs better but i don't know what I am doing so i am too dumb to realize i just made my car run like crap"
 
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