Removing upper and lower intake?

when you goto the auto parts store just tell them you need the tool to take the fuel rails off the intake. the ones that i have are called "tube spring lock coupler tool" i believe the sizes are 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch.
like i said before get the plastic one much easyer to use then the metal scissor type they sell.
 
I bought the fuel rail tool It didn't fit. I just moved the fuel rail off to the side and it was no big deal.

Trick when puttint it together. Go get some long 8" bolts with the same thread as the intake bolts. Cut the heads off and thread two into the block at opposite corners. When you lower the lower intake back down, use the bolts as guides. As soon as you drop it down, just bolt it in. DO NOT wiggle it around. That's what causes leaks.

Oh yeah make sure you ditch the cardboard end seals and just run a thick bead of RTV. I also ring the coolant passages but leave evertything else alone.
 
Here's a simple/cheap trick that I found makes the intake installs much easier and leak free. Pull out one of your lower intake bolts, and one of the shorter upper intake bolts. Run to the hardware store and buy 4 matching bolts (cheapest grade you can get) for the lower, and 2 for the short upper bolt. Put them in your vice and cut the heads off of them; slot the end that you cut off. When you get ready to install the lower, screw those four cut off 'temporary studs' into the 4 corners of the heads. They will hold your gaskets in perfect alignment, and allow you to drop the lower into position without moving the gasket a bit. Once you've put a few bolts in place, use a flat blade screw driver in the slots you cut to remove the temp. studs, and put all the manifold bolts in. Do the same thing for the upper - install the 2 short bolts one in the front and one in the back of the lower intake. Again, position your gaskets, the studs will hold them in place and allow you to guide the upper into place without moving anything. This is particularly helpful if you're working by yourself. I have sets also made for the valve covers and the headers. A real time saver, and it improves the quality of gasket alignment and seal. Well worth the little bit of time and trouble.

Be sure to use proper patterns and torque values - not more than 16-18 ft-lbs on the lower if alum. heads; 18-20 for cast iron heads. USE THE PROPER PATTERN - it's counterintuitive and it's important to use the right one. PM me if you don't have it. On the upper, no more than 10 ft-lbs. I take them up in about 3 increments.