Replaced igntion module, stator in dist. etc. now what

[mytight95]

I replaced the ignition module and the stator(well i didn't replace that but it's done) and now i am getting the following codes 172 & 136, they mean that lean bank #1 and lean bank #2. I am still trying to figure out my breaking up problem at cruising RPM and speeds, if you are at wide open throttle you don't really notice any kind of breaking up but it doesn't seem like it is running up to full potetential, this $hit is getting old. COME ON GUYS IF YOU CAN THINK OF ANTYTHING ELSE LET ME KNOW


Jason

p.s. my fuel pressure is not dropping as the rpms increase so i dont think that it is the fuel pump and i have my fuel pressure turned up to 40# right now so i know that should be enough fuel


thanks,
Jason

 

[2L8ULUZ2]

Just wondering but have you tried the obvious things like cap/rotor, wires, plugs? Also what about the o2 sensors since you are showing lean on both sides they could be bad as well. I have no idea what all you have tried so a list of things that you have replaced other than the two mentioned above will help me think of other things.

 

[mytight95]

cap rotors plugs wires O2's maf and ignition module stator, checked all vacuum, checked fuel pressure, timing is at 10*, harmonic balancer was replaced 5,000 ago

thats all i can remember right now


jason

p.s.----------i am replacing the ECT sensor as well in a little while just to make sure

 

[mytight95]

well ect sensor has been replaced as well, that adds up to a little over a hundred dollars so far without any luck. I am thinking of selling this damn thing cause all i ever seem to have is probs out of it.


jason

 

[StormTrooper]

egr valve pos sensor...just went through this myself

 

[mytight95]

i have no egr on my car it has all been deleted and i get no egr codes, have the sensor set to a specific spot, so i am almost positive that wouldn't be it, and it has been this way for a long time. The popping and stuttering is just recently became an issue


jason

 

[TrueBlue95GT]

Check your Throttle Position Sensor. Also, how did you check vacuum? Did you just look to see that all the vacuum lines were there, or did you actually check the vacuum with a gauge?

 

[2L8ULUZ2]

Check your Throttle Position Sensor. Also, how did you check vacuum? Did you just look to see that all the vacuum lines were there, or did you actually check the vacuum with a gauge?

Yea I forgot about the TPS. I am having a horroble time with mine right now but it is causing mine to run super rich and the idle will hang up. Try replacing the TPS and setting the voltage. But get a ford replacement because I have tried two aftermarket ones and they do not work worth a damn.

 

[mytight95]

i have an extra ford b/c i replaced the thing once and it wasn't what it was, and yeah i checked lines on vacuum, if i checked it with a guage, how would i go about doing that.


thanks
jason

 

[TrueBlue95GT]

basically you hook it up to one of the lines on your car and look at what the vacuum is. If it fluctuates between two pressures while idleing, that means that you have a leak, most likely between the intake and heads or block. Depending on what the gauge reads, it tells you where the leak is. I think if the gauge reads low at idle, one of your vacuum tubes is leaking. And also, if you flick the throttle WOT it should go down to zero and back to where it was before. If it goes up slowly I think its something in the heads worn. The haynes manual tells every possibility.

 

[mo_dingo]

Yeah, at idle, my car reads 19psi of vacuum. And it goes down when I hit the throttle. It should be inbetween 17-22psi I think at idle.

Check the voltage at the TPS. It should be about .86-1.1V at closed throttle, and 4.5-4.7 at WOT. You could also try to run a combustion cleaner through the car. Carbon may be your problem. BTW, I have the same problem you have. W/ a new MAF/IAT, timing at 10*, I still ping. But my o2's don't read its running lean. I just hear pinging, and my plugs are white.
Scott