replacing engine/transmission mounts.

[fivespeedsteed]

i was quoted 3 hours from my nearby shop i deal with, for the left, right motor mount, and the rear transmission mount. 180 dollars labor.

is this something than can be done with relative ease? they said about 1.7 hours for the motor mounts, and the rest is the trans mount.

i know youd have to support the car, and then jack the motor up and all, but seeing as how they have jacks, figured itd be easier for them to do it.

thoughts?

 

[90lxcoupe]

If everything comes apart like its supposed to that job shouldnt take a shop more than an hour to do.

i would guess if i was in my garage on jackstands it would take me about 1.5 hours on my car. Not a hard job to do at all. Just use a block of wood and a floor jack under the pan to support the motor and its six bolts for the engine mounts. The trans is even easier. just unbolt the old one, support the tranny and put the new ones in.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Trans is easy. Unbolt it, jack the rear of the trans up carefully, wiggle the old one out and wiggle the new one in and bolt it back together. You can prob bang that out yourself.

Engine mounts are a little tougher.

Make sure they are using 1993 Ford convertible mounts if you have them change them. Stiffer, and sits the engine down slightly lower

 

[fivespeedsteed]

i was gonna do prothane mounts from mm. id normally do it myself but being at school and such makes it difficult. supporting the engine by the pan and drain plugs is okay?

 

[skunk21]

I 2nd the vert mounts. do just like 90lxcoupe for the motor mounts. use the block of wood under the pan. get some freeze off or some type of penetrating oil for the nuts & bolts + a breaker bar if the they are really on there. remove one side at a time, undo the lower nuts from the k-member then jack it up remove the bolts from the block and install the new mount, lower it down slow. you may have to "jump" the mount into place with a pry bar since most of the time it doesn't always like to line up. do the same for other side.

 

[skunk21]

i was gonna do prothane mounts from mm. id normally do it myself but being at school and such makes it difficult. supporting the engine by the pan and drain plugs is okay?

the front part of the pan as very little surface area, it's strong + with you use a block of wood supporting it so the jack doesn't punch through. It works well and is done alot, just make sure the block of wood goes across the pan beyond the edges.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Def make sure you spread the load out.


If you can rent an engine lift for the day and lift the engine by the top, it will be easier. Local place near me rents them for like $50/day

 

[fivespeedsteed]

are vert mounts better than prothane mounts?

 

[MAC'n89Blckstng]

I had a set of prothane mounts I tried using on the 82 GT I built at my shop and they lifted the engine about 1.5 inches. I just use the engine mounts that get sandwiched by the rubber.

 

[fivespeedsteed]

so the prothane ones from mm wont work? where would i get vert mounts? how do i know they are harder than normal mounts, will the part numbers differentiate?


yeah the numbers are different, advance has same PN for coupes and verts, rock auto says for a 93 "Front Right Convertible Only
Front Right Sedan, Hatchback; After 2/20/92"

so apparently they changed in 92 or there just wrong once again.

so you onlyjack the front of the motor, by the front drain plug? i would have thought that would rotate the motor on the mounts.

 

[skunk21]

^^ you can get the vert mounts locally or at 50resto.com. The other mount are more solid and will cause alittle more NVH than the stockers, also if you are still running the stock fan/shroud you don't want to raise the height of the motor via the mounts or the fan could hit the shroud.

use a block of wood that extends past each side of the pan by atleast an inch, lay it on top of the jack and slide it under the front part of the pan. jack it up intil it just puts pressure on the pan and then loosen 1 of the mounts, now jack it up until the mount clears the k-member and remove the block bolts & pul it out. the motor will move/tilt enough to get it out, usually more so if th mount is really worn like mine was. if for some reason the motor doesn't tilt and it keeps going straight up, disconnect the other mount and raise the motor until the mounts clear, chances are when you lower it down the mounts will not line up. this is no biggie, you can either man handle the motor from the top and rock it to jump it into place or use a pry bar to jump the mount into place, try to get one in and started then work the other. Even better have a buddy help you and giude the motor down into place as you lower the jack. It's hard to explain but easy to see when are doing it and you will not hurt anything if you have to jump the mounts in. the mounts are really easy don't over think it, torque everything down and you will be all set .

 

[Mustang5L5]

Energy Suspension is another good choice. Urethane bushing, but the are the lower hight of the 'vert mounts.

I'd do all 3 the same material.

 

[fivespeedsteed]

i had to dremel my fan shroud a while ago, cause it was hitting my fan, i just realized while talking to mm that was cause of my mounts. im pretty sure im going to go with the energy suspension mounts.