Replacing my clutch, what about my flywheel?

[BennyBlown2v]

I'm in need of a new clutch (thanks to some not-so-unwanted-power ) but at the moment I only have enough cash for the clutch assembly (including new pivot ball, fork, pilot bearing, tob, and clutch quad/adjuster) and not or a new flywheel. Seeing as I only have 18k miles on the car, and only 1500 miles or so have been with the blower, the clutch is only starting to feel "weak", and only 6 trips down the 1/4mile at 330rwhp, do you think my flywheel will be ok if I have it resurfaced ("turned")?

Would it be better to go with a stock replacement flywheel? What is the part number for the stock flywheel for 04 GT? How much are those usually? I could spring for a maximum of an extra $100 bucks; I just don't have the $250-$400 to spend on an aluminum/billet steel flywheel right now

I'm planning to go with a Spec stg3 or an 11" McLeod stg3 kit from MM - will these clutches last substantially longer on an aftermarket flywheel? Will they perform well enough on a stock flywheel? And on the Spec clutch, is there TOB the one to use, or is OEM better?

Thanks - :SNSign:

 

[Mike97gt]

I recomend a new flywheel, but at your low mileage you can get away with using your old one, find a place near by that does a good job at machining them.

a new OEM flywheel will cost you around 100 bucks. and wise move buying the pivot ball, fork and TOB..

 

[Skidzz]

Because it's already going to be taken apart, I would go ahead and do the flywheel if I were you....might as well.

 

[BennyBlown2v]

Because it's already going to be taken apart, I would go ahead and do the flywheel if I were you....might as well.

Did you miss the part where I said I don't have the money?? lol Point of post was can I get away with resurfacing, or OEM replacement - or is aftermarket required?

 

[Mike97gt]

Did you miss the part where I said I don't have the money?? lol Point of post was can I get away with resurfacing, or OEM replacement - or is aftermarket required?

I would not bother with the aftermarket lightweight ones.. just resurface or get a new OEM.. normally I suggest a new OEM but you have really low miles, if the flywheel looks good when you get the clutch off it then use it.

 

[Pennywise2]

Since you have really low mileage on your car I would take off the clutch
and look at the condition of the OEM flywheel. I belive that with that low
of mileage that it will be in good shape and you could just have a good
machine shop resurface it for you no problem.I agree I wouldn't waste my
funds getting a lightweight flywheel but, that's up to you.The OEM flywheel
will work just fine.As far as clutch choice I would get a Centerforce DF clutch.
I am getting a Centerforce when my OEM clutch bits the dust!

 

[ToplessStang]

I installed a Mcleod clutch kit on my car over the winter and had the OEM flywheel resurfaced. It's been working great .

 

[Disturbed One]

As long as your flywheel is ok then resurface it, if it has hot spots from it slipping then replace it with an OEM.

 

[Skidzz]

Did you miss the part where I said I don't have the money?? lol Point of post was can I get away with resurfacing, or OEM replacement - or is aftermarket required?

Nope, I didn't miss that part....

I could spring for a maximum of an extra $100 bucks

Did you miss that part? You typed it lol. I was just suggesting you get a new one, didn't say aftermarket. I meant OEM....should've been more specific I guess.

 

[thomas91169]

if the flywheel isnt messed up, a resurface should be all it needs.

the flywheel on my GST was pretty scored when i finally got to replacing the clutch(couldnt even hold 2nd gear without winding out). they resurfaced it and it was fine.

 

[slow96mustang]

i had 20 thousandths taken off of my flywheel. there's still meat on it too for more. if you buy a new flywheel you should go get it turned anyways. they never come pefrect, like they will from a machine shop. machine shops usually only charge like 20 to 25 bucks to do it anyways, and it should only take them a few hours, if they're busy.



thats my 2 cents. just turn it, your machinest will tell you if he can or not. 25 dollars instead of 60 sounds good if you dont have the money.

rob

 

[BennyBlown2v]

Nope, I didn't miss that part....

Heh yeah, didn't mean anything by it - just givin ya a hard time

Thanks for all the advice guys! I'm going to go ahead and just have my flywheel resurfaced (if it looks good enough upon initial inspection), or buy an OEM if not! First up though, I'm going to do new clutch quad/adjuster/cable, I think that might actually be what is causing my pedal feel/engagement issues; but I need a new clutch soon anyway hehe

 

[5spd GT]

To reiterate what some have said...

Get your OEM flywheel resurfaced, hot spots can be take off, they usually aren't "deep"...the resurfacing will remove it, being in your current condition.

Centerforce DF would be my choice of clutch

 

[Skidzz]

To reiterate what some have said...

Get your OEM flywheel resurfaced, hot spots can be take off, they usually aren't "deep"...the resurfacing will remove it, being in your current condition.

Centerforce DF would be my choice of clutch

Yea, that's a good clutch, but it's WAY more expensive than a king cobra clutch. For the price of that, he could probably buy a KC AND replace his flywheel.

 

[BennyBlown2v]

No 11" King Cobra exists, otherwise I would consider it. I could buy a McLeod flywheel to convert to 10.5" then grab a KC clutch, but I think McLeod 11" or SPEC Stg3 on resurfaced stock/OEM replacement will suffice

 

[Pennywise2]

I would consider the Centerforce DF clutch Benny.

 

[5spd GT]

Yea, that's a good clutch, but it's WAY more expensive than a king cobra clutch. For the price of that, he could probably buy a KC AND replace his flywheel.

$120 bucks difference, to the 10.5" clutch...but no 11" KC exist as mentioned Thus, the Dual Friction recommendation

I have had the King Cobra and Centerforce products, centerforce it is...

 

[Mike97gt]

$120 bucks difference, to the 10.5" clutch...but no 11" KC exist as mentioned Thus, the Dual Friction recommendation

I have had the King Cobra and Centerforce products, centerforce it is...

I also have had both and I don't think the centerforce is worth the extra money if you don't have it. sure on a higher horsepower car the DF will be better but you don't NEED it on a 240 RWHP car.

 

[BennyBlown2v]

I have 365rwhp, and will be running around 400rwhp in a few months (or weeks).

I really think my stock clutch is holding fine now though, It's just the crappy stock quadrant + the cable is prolly a lil stressed. The Maximum Motorsports quad/fw adjuster/pedal height adjuster I ordered yesturday should help to take up the slack in the cable and lower the clutch engagment point closer to the floor!

Btw, I think I'll be going with a Spec Stg 3 w/ FRPP HD TOB, Stock resurfaced or new OEM flywheel, new pivot ball & clutch fork, MGW shifter (missed some gears at the track with my UPR shifter...), and also I'll be doing urethane tranny mount to reduce some of the "clunk" in the drivetrain in 1-2 shifts.

 

[Pennywise2]

Hey Benny what kind of track times are you getting with your Vortech?