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Replacing my clutch, what about my flywheel?

  • Thread starter Thread starter BennyBlown2v
  • Start date Start date May 19, 2006
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BennyBlown2v

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Dec 9, 2004
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Carmel, INdiana
May 19, 2006
#1
  • May 19, 2006
  • #1
I'm in need of a new clutch (thanks to some not-so-unwanted-power ) but at the moment I only have enough cash for the clutch assembly (including new pivot ball, fork, pilot bearing, tob, and clutch quad/adjuster) and not or a new flywheel. Seeing as I only have 18k miles on the car, and only 1500 miles or so have been with the blower, the clutch is only starting to feel "weak", and only 6 trips down the 1/4mile at 330rwhp, do you think my flywheel will be ok if I have it resurfaced ("turned")?

Would it be better to go with a stock replacement flywheel? What is the part number for the stock flywheel for 04 GT? How much are those usually? I could spring for a maximum of an extra $100 bucks; I just don't have the $250-$400 to spend on an aluminum/billet steel flywheel right now

I'm planning to go with a Spec stg3 or an 11" McLeod stg3 kit from MM - will these clutches last substantially longer on an aftermarket flywheel? Will they perform well enough on a stock flywheel? And on the Spec clutch, is there TOB the one to use, or is OEM better?

Thanks - :SNSign:
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
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the people's republic of massachusetts
May 19, 2006
#2
  • May 19, 2006
  • #2
I recomend a new flywheel, but at your low mileage you can get away with using your old one, find a place near by that does a good job at machining them.

a new OEM flywheel will cost you around 100 bucks. and wise move buying the pivot ball, fork and TOB..
 

Skidzz

Tinkerbell
Apr 11, 2005
328
1
19
Salt Lake City, UT
May 20, 2006
#3
  • May 20, 2006
  • #3
Because it's already going to be taken apart, I would go ahead and do the flywheel if I were you....might as well.
 

BennyBlown2v

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#4
  • May 20, 2006
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Skidzz said:
Because it's already going to be taken apart, I would go ahead and do the flywheel if I were you....might as well.
Click to expand...

Did you miss the part where I said I don't have the money?? lol Point of post was can I get away with resurfacing, or OEM replacement - or is aftermarket required?
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
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89
the people's republic of massachusetts
May 20, 2006
#5
  • May 20, 2006
  • #5
BennyDaBall said:
Did you miss the part where I said I don't have the money?? lol Point of post was can I get away with resurfacing, or OEM replacement - or is aftermarket required?
Click to expand...


I would not bother with the aftermarket lightweight ones.. just resurface or get a new OEM.. normally I suggest a new OEM but you have really low miles, if the flywheel looks good when you get the clutch off it then use it.
 
P

Pennywise2

Banned
May 16, 2006
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May 20, 2006
#6
  • May 20, 2006
  • #6
Since you have really low mileage on your car I would take off the clutch
and look at the condition of the OEM flywheel. I belive that with that low
of mileage that it will be in good shape and you could just have a good
machine shop resurface it for you no problem.I agree I wouldn't waste my
funds getting a lightweight flywheel but, that's up to you.The OEM flywheel
will work just fine.As far as clutch choice I would get a Centerforce DF clutch.
I am getting a Centerforce when my OEM clutch bits the dust!
 

ToplessStang

Member
Mar 7, 2004
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17
Montreal, Canada
May 20, 2006
#7
  • May 20, 2006
  • #7
I installed a Mcleod clutch kit on my car over the winter and had the OEM flywheel resurfaced. It's been working great .
 
D

Disturbed One

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Jun 26, 2005
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#8
  • May 20, 2006
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As long as your flywheel is ok then resurface it, if it has hot spots from it slipping then replace it with an OEM.
 

Skidzz

Tinkerbell
Apr 11, 2005
328
1
19
Salt Lake City, UT
May 20, 2006
#9
  • May 20, 2006
  • #9
BennyDaBall said:
Did you miss the part where I said I don't have the money?? lol Point of post was can I get away with resurfacing, or OEM replacement - or is aftermarket required?
Click to expand...
Nope, I didn't miss that part....

BennyDaBall said:
I could spring for a maximum of an extra $100 bucks
Click to expand...
Did you miss that part? You typed it lol. I was just suggesting you get a new one, didn't say aftermarket. I meant OEM....should've been more specific I guess.
 
T

thomas91169

I'd donkey punch my sister.
Aug 19, 2005
0
0
0
Modesto, CA
May 20, 2006
#10
  • May 20, 2006
  • #10
if the flywheel isnt messed up, a resurface should be all it needs.

the flywheel on my GST was pretty scored when i finally got to replacing the clutch(couldnt even hold 2nd gear without winding out). they resurfaced it and it was fine.
 
S

slow96mustang

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May 20, 2005
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romulus mi
May 21, 2006
#11
  • May 21, 2006
  • #11
i had 20 thousandths taken off of my flywheel. there's still meat on it too for more. if you buy a new flywheel you should go get it turned anyways. they never come pefrect, like they will from a machine shop. machine shops usually only charge like 20 to 25 bucks to do it anyways, and it should only take them a few hours, if they're busy.



thats my 2 cents. just turn it, your machinest will tell you if he can or not. 25 dollars instead of 60 sounds good if you dont have the money.

rob
 

BennyBlown2v

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Dec 9, 2004
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Carmel, INdiana
May 21, 2006
#12
  • May 21, 2006
  • #12
Skidzz said:
Nope, I didn't miss that part....
Click to expand...


Heh yeah, didn't mean anything by it - just givin ya a hard time

Thanks for all the advice guys! I'm going to go ahead and just have my flywheel resurfaced (if it looks good enough upon initial inspection), or buy an OEM if not! First up though, I'm going to do new clutch quad/adjuster/cable, I think that might actually be what is causing my pedal feel/engagement issues; but I need a new clutch soon anyway hehe
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
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Arkansas
May 21, 2006
#13
  • May 21, 2006
  • #13
To reiterate what some have said...

Get your OEM flywheel resurfaced, hot spots can be take off, they usually aren't "deep"...the resurfacing will remove it, being in your current condition.

Centerforce DF would be my choice of clutch
 

Skidzz

Tinkerbell
Apr 11, 2005
328
1
19
Salt Lake City, UT
May 21, 2006
#14
  • May 21, 2006
  • #14
5spd GT said:
To reiterate what some have said...

Get your OEM flywheel resurfaced, hot spots can be take off, they usually aren't "deep"...the resurfacing will remove it, being in your current condition.

Centerforce DF would be my choice of clutch
Click to expand...
Yea, that's a good clutch, but it's WAY more expensive than a king cobra clutch. For the price of that, he could probably buy a KC AND replace his flywheel.
 

BennyBlown2v

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Dec 9, 2004
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May 21, 2006
#15
  • May 21, 2006
  • #15
No 11" King Cobra exists, otherwise I would consider it. I could buy a McLeod flywheel to convert to 10.5" then grab a KC clutch, but I think McLeod 11" or SPEC Stg3 on resurfaced stock/OEM replacement will suffice
 
P

Pennywise2

Banned
May 16, 2006
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May 22, 2006
#16
  • May 22, 2006
  • #16
I would consider the Centerforce DF clutch Benny.
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
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99
Arkansas
May 24, 2006
#17
  • May 24, 2006
  • #17
Skidzz said:
Yea, that's a good clutch, but it's WAY more expensive than a king cobra clutch. For the price of that, he could probably buy a KC AND replace his flywheel.
Click to expand...

$120 bucks difference, to the 10.5" clutch...but no 11" KC exist as mentioned Thus, the Dual Friction recommendation

I have had the King Cobra and Centerforce products, centerforce it is...
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
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the people's republic of massachusetts
May 24, 2006
#18
  • May 24, 2006
  • #18
5spd GT said:
$120 bucks difference, to the 10.5" clutch...but no 11" KC exist as mentioned Thus, the Dual Friction recommendation

I have had the King Cobra and Centerforce products, centerforce it is...
Click to expand...


I also have had both and I don't think the centerforce is worth the extra money if you don't have it. sure on a higher horsepower car the DF will be better but you don't NEED it on a 240 RWHP car.
 

BennyBlown2v

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Dec 9, 2004
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May 24, 2006
#19
  • May 24, 2006
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I have 365rwhp, and will be running around 400rwhp in a few months (or weeks).

I really think my stock clutch is holding fine now though, It's just the crappy stock quadrant + the cable is prolly a lil stressed. The Maximum Motorsports quad/fw adjuster/pedal height adjuster I ordered yesturday should help to take up the slack in the cable and lower the clutch engagment point closer to the floor!

Btw, I think I'll be going with a Spec Stg 3 w/ FRPP HD TOB, Stock resurfaced or new OEM flywheel, new pivot ball & clutch fork, MGW shifter (missed some gears at the track with my UPR shifter...), and also I'll be doing urethane tranny mount to reduce some of the "clunk" in the drivetrain in 1-2 shifts.
 
P

Pennywise2

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May 16, 2006
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#20
  • May 24, 2006
  • #20
Hey Benny what kind of track times are you getting with your Vortech?
 
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