replacing pistion rings

blkstangman88

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Apr 6, 2004

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Apr 12, 2004

#1

• Apr 12, 2004

• #1

i pulled my 302 out of my 88 gt, o replace the rear main seal plus the motor mounts, well someone tode i should change the rings while i have the engine out and on stand. what would the easiest way be to remove the pistons with out messing with my distibitor, i got the whole engine down the block, and the distribitor is still there. if i were to remove the crank shaft to take the pistons out, would i be able to just put it back exactly the same way?

 

dastang2

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Dec 11, 2003

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tx

Apr 12, 2004

#2

• Apr 12, 2004

• #2

yes but if you don't have the heads off, you have to do that to get the pistons out. i would put new bearings in too and a timing set if you have a lot of miles

 

88stangmangt

Active Member

Nov 25, 2003

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Stafford,VA

Apr 12, 2004

#3

• Apr 12, 2004

• #3

ya also some afr main,rod studs wouldnt hurt either.

 

W

wild4stangs

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Dec 19, 2003

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Apr 13, 2004

#4

• Apr 13, 2004

• #4

I will be replacing the rings in the motor I am building as well. I am running the stock forged pistons. Any advice on what type of rings I should use ( Molly or cast) ? What are the test ones out there ?

 

blkstangman88

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Apr 13, 2004

#5

• Apr 13, 2004

• #5

kol thanx guys

 

dastang2

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Dec 11, 2003

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Apr 13, 2004

#6

• Apr 13, 2004

• #6

moly will last longer but i heard that they are harder and take longer to seat. i heard that you actually have to run the engine without water for a few minutes to seat them. you may also wanna get your heads redone while you put the new bearing and rings in.

 

blkstangman88

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Apr 6, 2004

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Apr 13, 2004

#7

• Apr 13, 2004

• #7

this is funny, i have no problem with taking the pistons and everything off my engine, but the one thing i dont want to do is mess with my timing by removing the distibitor cuz i got the time advanced right to where i want it and i dont want to hassle with resetting it, does this sound sane to u guys?

 

dastang2

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Dec 11, 2003

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tx

Apr 13, 2004

#8

• Apr 13, 2004

• #8

perfectly but you won't need to, what are you going to replace and do. just the rings or what.

 

W

wild4stangs

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Dec 19, 2003

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Apr 13, 2004

#9

• Apr 13, 2004

• #9

Yea, I just got the block back from the machine shop, had it tanked, they installed new cam bearings, plugs and freeze plugs, and checked that the decks were square. Just got to hone it, and reassemble it with new Bearings. Heads were freshened by the same shop, I just have to finish up the port matching.

 

blkstangman88

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Apr 6, 2004

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Apr 13, 2004

#10

• Apr 13, 2004

• #10

rings, bearings, rear main seal, motor mounts, speedo cable, oil pan gasket, head gaskets, all upper gaskets, i believe these are all the items i am replacing while the engine is out.

 

blown5.0

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Sep 7, 1999

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Central NJ

Apr 13, 2004

#11

• Apr 13, 2004

• #11

it sounds insane that you'll tear down the whole motor but you wont take the dist out? its easy enough to set.

besides if you gots the motor tore down and you plan to keep it for a while you might as well freshen it up. new rings, rod and main bearings, timing chain set, gaskets, oil pump, oil pump drive shaft, etc.

 

blkstangman88

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Apr 6, 2004

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Apr 13, 2004

#12

• Apr 13, 2004

• #12

it may be easy, but it took like a dozen time of settin it to get it where i like it, and if i take the pistos out i dont even have to take the crankshaft out. but since im doing the bearing 2, i guess ill have to deal with resetting it....lol

 

bmorrisj

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Sep 26, 2003

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Buena Park, CA

Apr 13, 2004

#13

• Apr 13, 2004

• #13

why not mark the distributor and crank balancer with the #1 a TDC?

 

W

wild4stangs

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Dec 19, 2003

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Apr 13, 2004

#14

• Apr 13, 2004

• #14

On my motor, I will replace, or have replaced:

Cam bearings, Main bearings, Rod bearings, freeze plugs, Comp Caps indexed true roller timing chain, Melling HV oil pump, FMS HD oil pump drive rod. Crane hardened push rods

I always campher the crank journal holes then polish.

I also always use the following:

ARP: main cap studs, cam bolts, flywheel/flexplate bolts, balancer bolt
Felpro gaskets

Also, if funds are available, a stud girdle and windage tray are a great add on, as well as having rods reconned for ARP wavelock 7/16 rod bolts...

 

blkstangman88

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Apr 6, 2004

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Apr 13, 2004

#15

• Apr 13, 2004

• #15

ya i will just mark where the distribitor is and replace everything i can touch, cuz 230,000 is a little much for a 5.0, even with a guy with a lead foot....lol...thanx again guys

 

88stangmangt

Active Member

Nov 25, 2003

2,332

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Stafford,VA

Apr 13, 2004

#16

• Apr 13, 2004

• #16

wild4stangs said:

Yea, I just got the block back from the machine shop, had it tanked, they installed new cam bearings, plugs and freeze plugs, and checked that the decks were square. Just got to hone it, and reassemble it with new Bearings. Heads were freshened by the same shop, I just have to finish up the port matching.

Click to expand...

what did the hot tanking and decking cost ya?

 

88stangmangt

Active Member

Nov 25, 2003

2,332

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Stafford,VA

Apr 13, 2004

#17

• Apr 13, 2004

• #17

wild4stangs said:

Yea, I just got the block back from the machine shop, had it tanked, they installed new cam bearings, plugs and freeze plugs, and checked that the decks were square. Just got to hone it, and reassemble it with new Bearings. Heads were freshened by the same shop, I just have to finish up the port matching.

Click to expand...

what the hot tanking for the block and decking cost ya?

 

blkstangman88

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Apr 6, 2004

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Apr 13, 2004

#18

• Apr 13, 2004

• #18

lets c, these r just price ranges, not exact, $85 for complete head gasket kit $17 for new speedo cable, $85 for motor mounts, $30 for rear main seal, $40 for pistion rings, bearing dont rememeber, hot tank free, close friend owns shop, oil pan gasket $30, i think thats most of it.....not that spendy but enough

 

88stangmangt

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Nov 25, 2003

2,332

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Stafford,VA

Apr 14, 2004

#19

• Apr 14, 2004

• #19

ya i want my block to get decked and hot tanked so i can paint it. I also want my rods and piston heads to be tanked too.

 

Ray III

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Feb 10, 2004

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fixin Boomhower's John Deere in Troy, NY

Apr 14, 2004

#20

• Apr 14, 2004

• #20

All that must be removed to get the pistons out is the oil pan and heads... that's it...

cylinders MUST be honed when new rings are installed so they will seat. You can do it yourself w/ ball hone and drill, look at the factory crosshatch pattern and move the hone in and out as you spin to duplicate it. You should end up with scratches in two directions that make a 60 degree angle everywhere they intersect (that is, move the hone such that the balls move at a 30 degree angle with respect to the crank). Cover the crank with a heavy cloth rag before doing this to each cylinder. When all done scratching things up good, take the rag out and flush the cylinders with abundant amounts of solvent, as well as the crankshaft. Afterward each crank rod journal should be thoroughly sprayed down with the solvent and blown, not wiped, dry.