Replacing rack and pinion...what else should I replace

Here's some tips to make the job easier...

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

The rack will come with new rubber bushings. If you want, you can upgrade to poly or solid bushings. Also, the outer tie rods are only $25 a piece from Autozone (lifetime warranty Moog brand).

To add a couple of suggestions...

I suggest leaving the rag joint on the intermediate shaft, unless it is torn and to be replaced. Some of these have the halves riveted together. Just remove the clamp bolt at the rack input shaft, and the through bolt at the upper shaft, and the intermediate shaft should slide upwards free of the rack.

Make sure the new rack and the coupler have the same spline configuration, some are round and splined, some are splined with a flat for alignment. The all round ones have one slightly larger master spline for alignment.

I highly recommend the long rack, ie, one with the inner tie rods included.

it takes more effort to turn because the tire is turning faster then normal......you're arms have to provide enough "torque" to help it make sure it turns though

There shouldn't be much of a difference in feel of the steering wheel. go with the 2.25. I can only see there being a difference if the car is stopped and not moving.

webshot said:

Hey Jrichker

... And will I have to have "Popeye" fore-arms to do a U-Turn?

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Only if the power steering pump quits...

Go with the Atsco 2.25 rack. I have used two so far and they are holding up very nicely.

As far as the effort, have you ever turned the wheel on an LTD or such and noticed how ridiculously *easy* it is to turn? That is the standard.

i need quick ratio just because I have a smaller than stock steering wheel. It still feel weird.

We had to replace my rack and pinion, I googled it a few times, it was a job. I google it today this comes up. One of those ironic moments when your like well, that would have helped… The steering wheel is wobbly that means it needs to be aligned right?

Geminiio said:

We had to replace my rack and pinion, I googled it a few times, it was a job. I google it today this comes up. One of those ironic moments when your like well, that would have helped… The steering wheel is wobbly that means it needs to be aligned right?

Click to expand...

How’s the rag joint? That could be part of the issue.
But an alignment isn’t a bad idea after replacing the rack, that’s for sure.