i have a 1993 mustang gt vert, and when i accelerate and the engine reaches about 3500-4500 rpm, the engine surges and lurches and wont accelerate anymore. i have replaced the IAC, cleaned the MAF sensor, dumped loads of injector cleaner in the car, adjusted the timing to 12 degrees BTDC, cleaned the spark plugs, replaced the rotorbug, and the dist. cap. and nothing i have done has helped. im almost ready to take the car into a dealership and have them monitor the engine, but not at $130. does anybody know the culprit to the acceleration problem? the car seems to have been losing power overtime so im guessing its electronic and involving fuel mixture and timing, and im not giving up. could it be the crank angle sensor?
revving problems
- Thread starter darkarrow
- Start date
darthcual
Member
or bad inertia cut off switch
slow5poh
Senior Citizen
slow5poh
Senior Citizen
could be the tps..................
maybe use a meter to check the ohms.
there is a tech about how to check the tps here
www.allfordmustangs.com
maybe use a meter to check the ohms.
there is a tech about how to check the tps here
www.allfordmustangs.com
Loss of power on a warm engine at higher RPM is usally a sign of a TFI going bad.
Spend 2 cents for a paper clip and save 129.98...
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
Spend 2 cents for a paper clip and save 129.98...
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
86-93 5.0s mount the TFI on the distributor. It gets hot while it is running due to electrical resistance, engine heat and the hot air from the radiator.
The auto parts stores will test TFI's, but it isn't very reliable on Mustangs. The modules tend to fail when hot. Unless you have a hot air source to heat the TFI, you can't easily duplicate the type of heat a TFI module gets exposed to.
The auto parts stores will test TFI's, but it isn't very reliable on Mustangs. The modules tend to fail when hot. Unless you have a hot air source to heat the TFI, you can't easily duplicate the type of heat a TFI module gets exposed to.
thank you, i replaced the TFI and it seems to have helped with the power issue and revving when the car is hot, but my car still idles at 1100, but when it gets hot the car idles at 1400 rpm. i dont know what causes it, i have replaced IAC, cleaned the MAF, checked for vacuum leaks, replaced all vacuum hoses and so on. I hoped replacing the TFI would fix this problem. The reason is when i unplug the jumper in the wire to the TFI, unplugged like when checking timing, the engine goes from 1100 rpm at idle, to 700 rpm at idle where it should be, does anyone know what could cause the high idle problem?
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