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revving problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter darkarrow
  • Start date Start date Sep 19, 2005
D

darkarrow

New Member
May 1, 2005
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Sep 19, 2005
#1
  • Sep 19, 2005
  • #1
i have a 1993 mustang gt vert, and when i accelerate and the engine reaches about 3500-4500 rpm, the engine surges and lurches and wont accelerate anymore. i have replaced the IAC, cleaned the MAF sensor, dumped loads of injector cleaner in the car, adjusted the timing to 12 degrees BTDC, cleaned the spark plugs, replaced the rotorbug, and the dist. cap. and nothing i have done has helped. im almost ready to take the car into a dealership and have them monitor the engine, but not at $130. does anybody know the culprit to the acceleration problem? the car seems to have been losing power overtime so im guessing its electronic and involving fuel mixture and timing, and im not giving up. could it be the crank angle sensor?
 

95opal

5 Year Member
Nov 16, 2004
449
20
39
Sep 19, 2005
#2
  • Sep 19, 2005
  • #2
sounds like a fuel issue.check your pressure.possible bad regulator or pump.good luck
 

darthcual

Member
Mar 31, 2005
985
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18
Arlington, TX
Sep 19, 2005
#3
  • Sep 19, 2005
  • #3
95opal said:
sounds like a fuel issue.check your pressure.possible bad regulator or pump.good luck
Click to expand...
or bad inertia cut off switch
 

slow5poh

Senior Citizen
Jul 6, 2005
273
3
19
Citrus Heights, CA
Sep 19, 2005
#4
  • Sep 19, 2005
  • #4
or also check the fuel filter, it may be clogged.

 
D

darkarrow

New Member
May 1, 2005
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Sep 19, 2005
#5
  • Sep 19, 2005
  • #5
i installed a brand new pump in march, and a brand new fuel pressure regulator on the same day, along with a new fuel filter, those should still be good, hopefully
 

slow5poh

Senior Citizen
Jul 6, 2005
273
3
19
Citrus Heights, CA
Sep 19, 2005
#6
  • Sep 19, 2005
  • #6
could be the tps..................

maybe use a meter to check the ohms.

there is a tech about how to check the tps here

www.allfordmustangs.com
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
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Dublin GA
Sep 19, 2005
#7
  • Sep 19, 2005
  • #7
Loss of power on a warm engine at higher RPM is usally a sign of a TFI going bad.

Spend 2 cents for a paper clip and save 129.98...

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
 
D

darkarrow

New Member
May 1, 2005
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Sep 19, 2005
#8
  • Sep 19, 2005
  • #8
i have done the KOEO and the KOER tests and i get no codes from the KOEO test and "car is trying to learn to idle" on the KOER test, i never got a codes for the TFI, but is there a way i can test the TFI, isnt it located on the side of the distributor?
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
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Mar 10, 2000
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Sep 19, 2005
#9
  • Sep 19, 2005
  • #9
86-93 5.0s mount the TFI on the distributor. It gets hot while it is running due to electrical resistance, engine heat and the hot air from the radiator.

The auto parts stores will test TFI's, but it isn't very reliable on Mustangs. The modules tend to fail when hot. Unless you have a hot air source to heat the TFI, you can't easily duplicate the type of heat a TFI module gets exposed to.
 
D

darkarrow

New Member
May 1, 2005
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Sep 24, 2005
#10
  • Sep 24, 2005
  • #10
thank you, i replaced the TFI and it seems to have helped with the power issue and revving when the car is hot, but my car still idles at 1100, but when it gets hot the car idles at 1400 rpm. i dont know what causes it, i have replaced IAC, cleaned the MAF, checked for vacuum leaks, replaced all vacuum hoses and so on. I hoped replacing the TFI would fix this problem. The reason is when i unplug the jumper in the wire to the TFI, unplugged like when checking timing, the engine goes from 1100 rpm at idle, to 700 rpm at idle where it should be, does anyone know what could cause the high idle problem?
 
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