I have a 2000 Mustang GT with 50,000 miles. I just bought this from my aunt because it has been sitting for six years. She had the oil changed and they put 10/30 in there and it instantly threw a rod bearing. The car is in excellent condition(she is over 50), so I don't want to throw a junk engine in it. What should I do when I rebuild it? Where should I get the parts. I am not going to modify it. Thanks.
Rod Knock from heavy oil!
- Thread starter Proauto
- Start date
johnnyt03gt
5 Year Member
anytime a car sets that long, it's always a good idea pull the engine and "freshen it up"
meaning whole new gasket kit, because most likely their all dry rotted anyway.
flush the old fuel. clean fuel tank. new plugs check all wiring. all new hose's new belt,
are you sure it threw a rod bearing? did you take engine apart?
if not might just be something really simply. im sure someone with more tec knowledge then myself. will come in soon,
also after six years did she just do oil change? did the fuel system get flushed?
plugs? wiring? setting that long without running it every month or so is vary BAD,
meaning whole new gasket kit, because most likely their all dry rotted anyway.
flush the old fuel. clean fuel tank. new plugs check all wiring. all new hose's new belt,
are you sure it threw a rod bearing? did you take engine apart?
if not might just be something really simply. im sure someone with more tec knowledge then myself. will come in soon,
also after six years did she just do oil change? did the fuel system get flushed?
plugs? wiring? setting that long without running it every month or so is vary BAD,
This title is a little misleading. Using 10W30 in her last oil chance didn't throw a rod. The engine being in a state of disrepair was the culprit. I suspect it would have done the same thing with whatever oil was sitting in the crank case.
How do you know for certain it was a rod bearing? The chain tensioners on the Ford Modular engine rely on oil pressure to keep them taught. They may have bled down over the years and are either chattering around until they reprime themselves, or the chains have gotten so loose then they've skipped a tooth and thrown everything out of whack....in which case, count on it wiping out the top end.
How do you know for certain it was a rod bearing? The chain tensioners on the Ford Modular engine rely on oil pressure to keep them taught. They may have bled down over the years and are either chattering around until they reprime themselves, or the chains have gotten so loose then they've skipped a tooth and thrown everything out of whack....in which case, count on it wiping out the top end.
Regardless of the order, slightly heavier oil did not cause the rod knock. I would suspect some other issue, for example the oil level was too low and caused the pump to go dry, the shop monkey forgetting to put the oil filter or drain plug back on before starting, or the introduction of contaminents during the oil change. Heavier oil generally provides better protection for the bearings because it allows for a thicker film layer. It isn't as if the engine was filled with 75W-140 rear end grease.
If it really is a bearing noise, then you obviously have a limited number of options and have to choose based on your budget and mechanical ability/experience:
1. fix it yourself. Don't attempt unless you have experience and be sure to do a full rebuild, new rings, seals and bearings. Have a machine shop do the work you can't (like boring, honing or polishing/turning the crank)
2. Take it somewhere to have a new or rebuilt engine installed for you. If you haven't pulled an engine before, this probably isn't a good time to learn, so let a professional do it.
3. Buy a rebuilt short block or complete engine and install yourself. Again, don't get in over your head if you aren't mechanically inclined.
4. Buy a J-yard engine (complete or just the short block) and install yourself. This is very economical and with some labor, you could get it done for just a few hundred dollars. The 4.6 is a strong engine that can live for 3-400k miles if maintained well.
I am more mechanically inclined, so personally I would buy a j-yard engine, get the car running and sell it. After sitting for 6 years, I'm willing to bet there are rear end seals and bearings, along with transmission seals are dry and ready to fail, not to mention issues with the fuel system from sitting!
Regardless of what you choose, make sure all the bearings and seals get replaced. If it wiped out one bearing, chances are the other bearings aren't pretty!
If it really is a bearing noise, then you obviously have a limited number of options and have to choose based on your budget and mechanical ability/experience:
1. fix it yourself. Don't attempt unless you have experience and be sure to do a full rebuild, new rings, seals and bearings. Have a machine shop do the work you can't (like boring, honing or polishing/turning the crank)
2. Take it somewhere to have a new or rebuilt engine installed for you. If you haven't pulled an engine before, this probably isn't a good time to learn, so let a professional do it.
3. Buy a rebuilt short block or complete engine and install yourself. Again, don't get in over your head if you aren't mechanically inclined.
4. Buy a J-yard engine (complete or just the short block) and install yourself. This is very economical and with some labor, you could get it done for just a few hundred dollars. The 4.6 is a strong engine that can live for 3-400k miles if maintained well.
I am more mechanically inclined, so personally I would buy a j-yard engine, get the car running and sell it. After sitting for 6 years, I'm willing to bet there are rear end seals and bearings, along with transmission seals are dry and ready to fail, not to mention issues with the fuel system from sitting!
Regardless of what you choose, make sure all the bearings and seals get replaced. If it wiped out one bearing, chances are the other bearings aren't pretty!
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