Roller Rockers
- Thread starter JD1964
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I understand. That means they are basically non adjustable. Ok then, I guess if I want extra valve lift I'll need to do a cam swap.
I think I see E303 in my future.
Questions on the lifters. Does my stock 302 have roller lifters?
If they are roller lifters, can I reuse them with a new cam?
I think I see E303 in my future.
Questions on the lifters. Does my stock 302 have roller lifters?
If they are roller lifters, can I reuse them with a new cam?
no you can still do a 1.72 roller rocker just need pedestal mount style. ford racing makes a new design that has an adjustable pushrod cup to set the valve lash and not have to do it with shims.
yes your motor has hydraulic roller lifters. and yes you can reuse them with the cam
yes your motor has hydraulic roller lifters. and yes you can reuse them with the cam
they are roller , I wouldn't re use lifters .(but that's my preference)
Skip the letter cam and go with a tfs stage 1 .
you can use pedestal mount 1.7 on your stock motor to get some lift out of the stock cam .
also on. a stock head car you valve springs will float with a bigger cam
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Skip the letter cam and go with a tfs stage 1 .
you can use pedestal mount 1.7 on your stock motor to get some lift out of the stock cam .
also on. a stock head car you valve springs will float with a bigger cam
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Isn't valve spring float something that will happen at higher rpm? I don't plan to go over 5500 rpm. With either the 303, tfs stage 1 or similar, my stock springs should be ok, correct?
If I go the pedestal mount 1.7 rockers instead of cam swap, those just get torqued down to specs. As long as there are no bent or excessively worn parts, there should be no need for adjustment.
Is this a correct assumption?
If I go the pedestal mount 1.7 rockers instead of cam swap, those just get torqued down to specs. As long as there are no bent or excessively worn parts, there should be no need for adjustment.
Is this a correct assumption?
between the lift and duration they will float before high rpm and you won't see much benefit without changing those super restrictive e7 heads
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Valve springs are cheap and easy to replace. The tool is $20 at the auto parts store. I'd do that if I replaced anything else on a cam swap. Lifters are cheap too, but not necessary.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
You'll end up somewhere with the same lift as a B cam, but I agree that if you are adding 1.7's on weak or high mile springs that is not wise. Plus the E7's are not worth putting any money into IMO. Not a fan of the TFS1 cam personally. I think the X258 of 264 or better choices but baskin robbins makes 31 flavors, but again it all starts with the heads- E7's are not the foundation to build on.
Ok. You've convinced me the stock heads are the bottle neck. For that reason, I'll go with the 1.7 rocker arms only. That will be the mildest step up in valve lift and duration.
I'm not changing the heads. Not yet anyway. I do think the rocker arm change will compliment the sorted other mild mods I'm doing.
I'm not changing the heads. Not yet anyway. I do think the rocker arm change will compliment the sorted other mild mods I'm doing.
I suppose I could change the valve springs along with the rocker arms.
I already have the overhead valve spring compressor. I have an air compressor fitting for the plug hole too but it's for sb Chevy. Is that the same a sb ford?
I already have the overhead valve spring compressor. I have an air compressor fitting for the plug hole too but it's for sb Chevy. Is that the same a sb ford?
Personally I would save all your parts until you have everything for the hci that you are obviously heading towards. you seem to be getting ahead of yourself.
head/cam/intake. all your posts over the last few weeks point towards swapping them out, and honestly if you just change any one of them and not touch the other(at least do heads and intake together) you will be wasting time and money. Best to maximize your parts and wallet by doing all of it at once.
Ok I got you. But I'll be changing more than one. Here's the basic plan.
65mm MAF from Marquis
Explorer intake with explorer 65mm TB
1.7 roller rockers with new valve springs
Shorty headers
Off road x pipe
Flowmaster American Thunder
Under drive pulley set
Are you saying that if I don't change the stock E7 heads, than all the above is a waste of time and money?
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I don't think the MAF from the Marquis has the same mapping as your Mustang. The only ones that I know are true plug and play are the 70MM MAF from a 94-95 Mustang. There is a list of interchangeable MAF's floating around. The rockers may add 10-15 hp but is it worth the time, effort and money, plus will they clear the stock valve covers. If you are pulling the intake and TB off the explorer why not take the heads and put new springs on them and the 1.7 RR- then you will have much better GT40 heads. That's what I did- upgraded to the TFS springs for $125 and had them cleaned up for another $100.
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in order of importance
Use the MAF now if you have the adapters/tubing already
Install your underdrives.
If your exhaust is in decent shape your not going to likely see any moer performace out of replacing the headers yet.
Install your X pipe and the cat back.
If you install the explorer intake without at least a matching set of heads you are likely only going to see 10rwhp. If you do heads the intake has to come off anyway so do those at the same time. Typically before you swap a head set you have the heads cleaned and then is whwn you want to put in new springs. If you keep coming back and revisiting what should have been done at the same time you will be chasing your own tail and fluching money/time down the toilet.
Use the MAF now if you have the adapters/tubing already
Install your underdrives.
If your exhaust is in decent shape your not going to likely see any moer performace out of replacing the headers yet.
Install your X pipe and the cat back.
If you install the explorer intake without at least a matching set of heads you are likely only going to see 10rwhp. If you do heads the intake has to come off anyway so do those at the same time. Typically before you swap a head set you have the heads cleaned and then is whwn you want to put in new springs. If you keep coming back and revisiting what should have been done at the same time you will be chasing your own tail and fluching money/time down the toilet.
I run an explorer top end and it will RAPE a stock 5.0, well worth the time to source better heads. If your budget will allow find some aluminum heads. they will already have the upgraded springs/rockers.
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