Ron Morris adjustable motor mounts

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I have them on my 65. I would recommend them to anyone that is doing a motor swap or a transmission conversion.

They allow you to move the motor front to back and side to side, but not up and down. RMP also offers mounts that will lower the engine and they are good for a 351 swap.

They were a big help for me. I got my 302 with T5 trans to fit just right with my headers and larger radiator etc. I moved my engine back a bit and everything fits perfectly.

I know they are a little pricey, but they are worth it in my opinion.
 
I put these on my 65 as I was doing a T5 conversion with JBA headers and could not get the headers to fit or the T5 to line up with the floor opening just right. These mounts allowed me to adjust the side to side and front back position perfectly. I think they do add a bit of vibration but they worked very well for me :nice::nice:
 
I have the mounts that adjust forward/backward/side to side. I like them a lot. I got them because the repro mounts I bought were not quite right and I could not align my engine/trans properly. The Ron Morris mounts made it very easy to shift things to fit perfectly. I had my engine balanced when I rebuilt it and it runs very smooth and I haven't noticed any engine vibrations.
 
engine and transmission swaps are where they really shine

should i get these if i have a 91 ho motor and im gonna do a T5 conversion

Did you not read the previous posts? :rolleyes:

Only if you really want to take the easy way to get everything to line up perfectly, should you get the RMP mounts.
If you prefer to struggle, sweat, blead, cry, scream, throw tantrums, get frustrated, get behind, chase bugs, give up, then don't get these mounts.

The biggest problem that I can see with the RMP mounts is, they work so well, that dropping in the drivetrain becomes a non-event.
What kind of bragging rights can you have when you don't even get grease under your fingernails. :D

Because they use polyurethane isolators, they will transmit more vibration to the chassis of the car. Most people aren't clued in enough to know the difference.
Eventually the bushings break down at the bottom (higher exhaust temps speed the process). So "eventually" you may need to change the bushings.
And if you really want to get things "just right" get both sets of side plates. If possible use the lowering plates (especially with a transmission swap).

If you are bound and determined to do things the old fashioned hard way. And you grew up walking barefoot in the snow 4 miles to school (uphill both ways), then by all means, check out the below link:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2400202/8

In either case, have fun, and good luck.
 
should i get these if i have a 91 ho motor and im gonna do a T5 conversion

+1 to what 66Runt wrote. If I were in your shoes I would definately get them. With stock mounts most people find they have to trim the tunnel opening to make room for the shifter when they do a T5 swap. The adjustable mounts may make it so you will not have to. Also, Virginia Classic Mustang sells different length Radiater Fan spacers so if you have to move the engine forward any, these can keep your fan blades from hitting your radiator.
 
Yup, I am getting me a set with both of the height sets. I was happy to hear that it will aid in installing a 6-speed should I got that way or allow better fit if I go with a 351W, great thread!


Armando
 
I have the Ron Morris adjustables and think they are great. After having to really strong-arm the stock mounts, these were a nice change and installed with ease. I have the engine positioned as it would be stock, but in general these mounts are easier to work with than the stock set. About 2x as much though, but worth it IMO.
 
I have the RM mounts (put them in about 4 years ago) with JBA headers, 5.0L and T5z. It allowed me to move the engine about an inch back for the headers to clear the steering box and to move the engine side to side to get near perfect fit. I did have to grind the DS rear side an 1/8" when I was using HiPo manifolds as they would just touch and keep the manifolds from fully seating. Now, the T5z shifter is centered in the hole so I wouldn't have had to clearance the front if I had put these on in the first place. My driveshaft (aluminum) is shorter by 1 1/2" from stock (currently 49.5") BTW.

Daniel