I agree with the General, the factory gauge is a best guess. I would take a temperature reading on the driver side rad tank (metal part). That would be your best info.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2P7MDRXmfI4&t=6s
The start of the video my fans had automatically triggered (205 *F), you will see where my gauge is reading.
The start of the video my fans had automatically triggered (205 *F), you will see where my gauge is reading.
I went from a 180 to a stock 195 and this is exactly where my needles sat as well.
That's where mine is (in the video above). Mine used to be at the M, but after I put a new temp sensor on normal moved up to the R. I am using a 180 T-stat.
Sure. “R” Seems to be where most are at. Mine was at the R all the time and was always fine. I always kept one eye on it though where as the new reading, on the A, makes me feel a lot more comfortable.
100% right about that. Accuracy of the gauges... who knows!?!??! Now ya have me thinking... ok, not going down that rabbit hole. Lol
In relation.... let me ask this..... when your cold, is your coolant in the bottle actually up to the “full when cold” line and when your hot, is your coolant up to the “full when hot” line????
Mine never is... either way... it’s always way down under the cold line regardless if she’s hot or cold and I’m not low on coolant.... same or different for you guys?
Mine never is... either way... it’s always way down under the cold line regardless if she’s hot or cold and I’m not low on coolant.... same or different for you guys?
I don’t have a stock bottle anymore, but when I did, i would top the bottle off to full hot when the motor was warmed up. It would them drop down but i would never pay attention to that level.
I typically do this to all my cars and adjust overflow level so it’s even with full hot when motor is hot.
I typically do this to all my cars and adjust overflow level so it’s even with full hot when motor is hot.
I don’t have a stock bottle anymore, but when I did, i would top the bottle off to full hot when the motor was warmed up. It would them drop down but i would never pay attention to that level.
Ok thanks for your input. I’m always tempted to add and bring it up to where it should be but then at the same time wonder if that’s not accurate either (the line) and figure leave it alone if there are no issues... maybe i should bring it up to the hot line then.... was curious about others so that’s for your comment on this.
I’m not opposed to U/D pullies at all if your cooling and charging system is robust.
And I’ll probably be installing a set shortly as I drank a weee bit too much the other day and ordered a 93 cobra pulley set, which is 11% underdrive (typically most sets are roughly 25%)
And I’ll probably be installing a set shortly as I drank a weee bit too much the other day and ordered a 93 cobra pulley set, which is 11% underdrive (typically most sets are roughly 25%)
Retired diesel mech . . Seen the trend to run any engine,gas or diesel. Hotter . When fuel mileage became forefront on the industry as high temps produce more hp. And fuel mileage also gains . However the downsides are that you are running on a fine line of damage to your engine. Idiot lights and inattentive monitoring of real gauges give the operator a lot lellsslsll time to notice that something went wrong when normal is 210 f …. And 220 is damaging. Personally i street drive and therefore run a cooler thermostat and cooler fan sensors . I take a slight knock on performance (5hp.) or so and burn a little more fuel but I value my engine and I need not keep my eyes glued to the dash . Watch the people who are using their cellphone.. going to the track? Different story entirely ! I don’t have a computer controlling my engine,just my right foot .