Rust

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
95
104
Adrian, MI
So I thought I had dodged the bullet. buttoned up tje trunk and had it totally oem. then decided to pull the gt ground effects to prep the car for paint. Pulled the carpet up in the trunk and put my finger thru the sticky goo ford used and right thru the bottom of the trunk. only spot like this I can find is drivers side two inches from the rear end of the trunk stretching six inches forward following the frame rail exactly. so what's my options here? Spray por15 as far up into this frame rail and pray or is there a better way?
 
weather strip is golden. strange design, pulled the bumper and bumper cover. ford installed some sort of vent at the end of the frame rail that vents downward. it is a part of the stamped sheet metal that forms the back of the trunk. that has to be the source. the frame rail is actually open by design in the picture, not rusted through...
 
I would get rid of all the surface rust and spray with POR or similar products.

Eastwood sells internal frame coating that comes with long hose so you can fish it through the frame rail and paint hard to reach places. I just used this the other day. Worked like a charm.
 
I would get rid of all the surface rust and spray with POR or similar products.

Eastwood sells internal frame coating that comes with long hose so you can fish it through the frame rail and paint hard to reach places. I just used this the other day. Worked like a charm.


that was the plan, just wanted someone that had done it to verify. thanks! now i have found multiple pin holes (6 of them) all over the back end and the trunk. weld, fill? idk guess i will pull the gas tank again and clean, fix, prime and paint the entire rear end.
 
If I was in your shoes, I would take a grinder with a cutting wheel, square up that hole in the floor while cutting back as much as needed to remove the cancer filled area, treat the inner frame rail like previously posted, and weld in a piece of new steel. I've worked on/owned 2 rust buckets (they were both chebbys, they always seem to have more rust issues than Fords) and IMHO if you don't cut back far enough to remove all the rusted metal, you're fighting a loosing battle. As far as the pinholes, I would just clean them up with a wire wheel, fill with a MIG, grind and paint. Good luck!!!
 
If I was in your shoes, I would take a grinder with a cutting wheel, square up that hole in the floor while cutting back as much as needed to remove the cancer filled area, treat the inner frame rail like previously posted, and weld in a piece of new steel. I've worked on/owned 2 rust buckets (they were both chebbys, they always seem to have more rust issues than Fords) and IMHO if you don't cut back far enough to remove all the rusted metal, you're fighting a loosing battle. As far as the pinholes, I would just clean them up with a wire wheel, fill with a MIG, grind and paint. Good luck!!!
Yup was just concerned with the inner frame rails. Looks like the eastwood stuff should handle that.
 
I don't know if they still have it, but back in the day (10-15 years ago) Eastwood sold some stuff called Coorless, or a product close to that spelling, I can't remember exactly. I used that stuff a lot on several different projects, as did my dad and my brother. It was great for future rust prevention, but the existing rust had to be removed properly, down to solid bare metal. Stuff does the job very well, my dad has an abandoned '66 Nova shell (was a lost project) sitting in his back yard that has been there for over 10 years that we replaced the floor pans in and treated with that stuff, till this day, those pans look like they were welded in within a year. :nice: too Eastwood!!!