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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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Rust

  • Thread starter Thread starter jcgafford
  • Start date Start date Sep 25, 2013

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
95
104
Adrian, MI
Sep 25, 2013
#1
  • Sep 25, 2013
  • #1
So I thought I had dodged the bullet. buttoned up tje trunk and had it totally oem. then decided to pull the gt ground effects to prep the car for paint. Pulled the carpet up in the trunk and put my finger thru the sticky goo ford used and right thru the bottom of the trunk. only spot like this I can find is drivers side two inches from the rear end of the trunk stretching six inches forward following the frame rail exactly. so what's my options here? Spray por15 as far up into this frame rail and pray or is there a better way?
 

pearlnotchback

5 Year Member
Dec 18, 2011
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Tennessee
Sep 25, 2013
#2
  • Sep 25, 2013
  • #2
post some pictures
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
95
104
Adrian, MI
Sep 25, 2013
#3
  • Sep 25, 2013
  • #3
pearlnotchback said:
post some pictures
Click to expand...
Will do. But it won't be until late tomorrow night.
 

pearlnotchback

5 Year Member
Dec 18, 2011
319
44
59
Tennessee
Sep 25, 2013
#4
  • Sep 25, 2013
  • #4
Thats cool I stay up late anyway
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
95
104
Adrian, MI
Sep 28, 2013
#5
  • Sep 28, 2013
  • #5
[URL=http://s292.photobucket.com/user/jcgafford/media/20130928_145642_zpsafe2c1ef.jpg.html][/URL]
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
8,859
214
In the garage
Sep 28, 2013
#6
  • Sep 28, 2013
  • #6
I'm no body guy but that ain't good. What's the integrity of the framerail.
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
95
104
Adrian, MI
Sep 28, 2013
#7
  • Sep 28, 2013
  • #7
Frame rail is solid surface rust only
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
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a van down by the river
Sep 28, 2013
#8
  • Sep 28, 2013
  • #8
interesting spot for rust to form. Hows the trunk weatherstrip look?
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
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104
Adrian, MI
Sep 28, 2013
#9
  • Sep 28, 2013
  • #9
weather strip is golden. strange design, pulled the bumper and bumper cover. ford installed some sort of vent at the end of the frame rail that vents downward. it is a part of the stamped sheet metal that forms the back of the trunk. that has to be the source. the frame rail is actually open by design in the picture, not rusted through...
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
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Adrian, MI
Sep 28, 2013
#10
  • Sep 28, 2013
  • #10


this is the opening, right above the bumper push
 
Reactions: stykthyn

TrophyHead

15 Year Member
Mar 18, 2003
1,195
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Sep 29, 2013
#11
  • Sep 29, 2013
  • #11
I would get rid of all the surface rust and spray with POR or similar products.

Eastwood sells internal frame coating that comes with long hose so you can fish it through the frame rail and paint hard to reach places. I just used this the other day. Worked like a charm.
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
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Adrian, MI
Sep 29, 2013
#12
  • Sep 29, 2013
  • #12
TrophyHead said:
I would get rid of all the surface rust and spray with POR or similar products.

Eastwood sells internal frame coating that comes with long hose so you can fish it through the frame rail and paint hard to reach places. I just used this the other day. Worked like a charm.
Click to expand...


that was the plan, just wanted someone that had done it to verify. thanks! now i have found multiple pin holes (6 of them) all over the back end and the trunk. weld, fill? idk guess i will pull the gas tank again and clean, fix, prime and paint the entire rear end.
 

tca7291

I can see your wieners.
5 Year Member
Sep 1, 2011
1,801
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Raleigh, NC
Sep 30, 2013
#13
  • Sep 30, 2013
  • #13
If I was in your shoes, I would take a grinder with a cutting wheel, square up that hole in the floor while cutting back as much as needed to remove the cancer filled area, treat the inner frame rail like previously posted, and weld in a piece of new steel. I've worked on/owned 2 rust buckets (they were both chebbys, they always seem to have more rust issues than Fords) and IMHO if you don't cut back far enough to remove all the rusted metal, you're fighting a loosing battle. As far as the pinholes, I would just clean them up with a wire wheel, fill with a MIG, grind and paint. Good luck!!!
 

jcgafford

10 Year Member
Jan 7, 2012
1,114
95
104
Adrian, MI
Sep 30, 2013
#14
  • Sep 30, 2013
  • #14
tca7291 said:
If I was in your shoes, I would take a grinder with a cutting wheel, square up that hole in the floor while cutting back as much as needed to remove the cancer filled area, treat the inner frame rail like previously posted, and weld in a piece of new steel. I've worked on/owned 2 rust buckets (they were both chebbys, they always seem to have more rust issues than Fords) and IMHO if you don't cut back far enough to remove all the rusted metal, you're fighting a loosing battle. As far as the pinholes, I would just clean them up with a wire wheel, fill with a MIG, grind and paint. Good luck!!!
Click to expand...
Yup was just concerned with the inner frame rails. Looks like the eastwood stuff should handle that.
 

tca7291

I can see your wieners.
5 Year Member
Sep 1, 2011
1,801
152
143
Raleigh, NC
Sep 30, 2013
#15
  • Sep 30, 2013
  • #15
I don't know if they still have it, but back in the day (10-15 years ago) Eastwood sold some stuff called Coorless, or a product close to that spelling, I can't remember exactly. I used that stuff a lot on several different projects, as did my dad and my brother. It was great for future rust prevention, but the existing rust had to be removed properly, down to solid bare metal. Stuff does the job very well, my dad has an abandoned '66 Nova shell (was a lost project) sitting in his back yard that has been there for over 10 years that we replaced the floor pans in and treated with that stuff, till this day, those pans look like they were welded in within a year. too Eastwood!!!
 
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