Scattershield with tremec and 351

[fast_back_gta]

Hi,

I have ordered a frpp 5.8/392 crate engine.
So I was looking to install a tremec tko600 in my car, and thought I should get a scattershield at the same time.

My car is a 69.

Question is will this scattershield Mustangs Unlimited - The Source for Mustang Parts, Shelby Parts, Cougar Parts and Accessories work in a 69, between a 392 and a TKO600?

Heres a link to the engine: Ford Racing Performance Parts [M-6007-D392FT*]

Also, can anyone recomend a clutch that works with my setup?

Thanks!

 

[69gmachine]

If you plan to do much drag racing I'd get a 164 tooth flywheel and an 11" clutch. For street or open track driving, a 157 t flywheel and 10.5" clutch will work fine. The big steel bell should work with either one, but check with a dealer to make sure before ordering it. There is a light weight steel scatter shield available from D&D Performance (made by Quicktime) but it looks like it's only made for the smaller 157 t flywheel. Give D&D a call and ask about it. I wouldn't put the old style heavy scatter shield in if I could help it.

 

[fast_back_gta]

Thanks!
Yeah, car will probably be more open-track than a drag car.

About the scatter shield, I did'nt realize they were heavier. But as you mentioned it , it makes sense.
How heavy is a steel shield? When you say old-style do you mean the one I linked?

 

[69gmachine]

Thanks!
Yeah, car will probably be more open-track than a drag car.

About the scatter shield, I did'nt realize they were heavier. But as you mentioned it , it makes sense.
How heavy is a steel shield? When you say old-style do you mean the one I linked?

Yes. It looks a lot like the Lakewood scatter shields. They are very heavy and hard to get headers to fit around.

 

[fast_back_gta]

Yeah maybe it's just overkill too, might just go the easy way with a standard aluminum bell housing.

Btw I was looking at your cardomain site and you've really done some nice things to your car.

I have been reading up on the j-car rack, I see you have one, are you satisfied with how it works and was it hard to install?
Maybe this belongs in an other thread..

 

[torino420]

Check out the Quicktime bellhousings, much lighter then lakewoods, plus more room for headers. They get great reviews. People love them...

To me its cheap insurance to have, better then have your feet cut off or worse! If it will see any abuse, dont hesitate on some form of scattershield.

Quick Time Performance Products

 

[fast_back_gta]

Could this clutch work Mustangs Unlimited - The Source for Mustang Parts, Shelby Parts, Cougar Parts and Accessories
The TKO600 has a 26 spline output shaft, right?
It's not specified what splined shaft this clutch will work with, also it says 5.0/4.6L.
Will that work wit the FMS 392? It's suposed to have a 157 tooth flywheel.
This is giving me a headache..
Since I live in Sweden want to make sure I get the right parts the first time.

 

[69gmachine]

Btw I was looking at your cardomain site and you've really done some nice things to your car.

I have been reading up on the j-car rack, I see you have one, are you satisfied with how it works and was it hard to install?
Maybe this belongs in an other thread..

Thanks for the kind words.

So far I'm very happy with it. I designed my own front suspension and r&p kit to work together, so it took a while to get everything sorted out, but I've installed and removed it several times with the car just on plastic ramps, and it's not hard at all. The steering is sooo much better than the old saginaw/drag link. Wide, low profile tires are not very forgiving of bumpsteer.

On the down side, you do give up some turning radius, which normally isn't a problem, but it does make doing a u-turn a challenge, and getting out of some gas stations has been pretty close. The other thing that concerns me is that the rack was designed for a 4 cyl car with skinny 13 or 14" tires. I drive my car pretty hard, and I know the loads I put on it far exceed the design specs for the rack. What I don't know yet is how long the seals will last. The first rack I installed was a used one I picked up off ebay for $60. It lasted about a year before it started leaking, including a couple of Open track sessions. The rack that is on there now is a rebuilt unit I got for $100 from Advance Auto. I only have about 1500 miles on it so far, so I'll see how long this one lasts.

 

[69gmachine]

Could this clutch work Mustangs Unlimited - The Source for Mustang Parts, Shelby Parts, Cougar Parts and Accessories
The TKO600 has a 26 spline output shaft, right?
It's not specified what splined shaft this clutch will work with, also it says 5.0/4.6L.
Will that work wit the FMS 392? It's suposed to have a 157 tooth flywheel.
This is giving me a headache..
Since I live in Sweden want to make sure I get the right parts the first time.

Yes the TKO 600 has a 26 spline input shaft. You will need a 10.5" clutch for the 157t flywheel. Not every clutch manufacturer makes a 10.5" disc with the 26 spline hub. My disc is from McCloud, and it's a dual face disc with Kevlar on one side and ceramic on the other. It has a fully sprung hub and a regular marcel for street use. The pressure plate is a Centerforce II that was almost brand new, and I wasn't going to just throw it out, but Centerforce doesn't make a 10.5" disc with a 26 spline hub. Be careful when mixing and matching components like this to make sure the pp is designed for the thickness of the disc you use.

 

[fast_back_gta]

Ok, so ideally i would want a clutch kit made for a 157 tooth flywheel and a 26 spline input shaft, and since I'll be ordering lots of stuff from mustangsunlimited it would be neat if they have it that way I wont have to order from different places.

 

[fast_back_gta]

69gmachine: yes your front suspension looked really neat, it's nice to see people who've gotten creative and made their one stuff.
I myself have gone with the GW coilover suspension, mainly because I dont feel i have the skills to make my own frontend eventhough it would have been fun.
It would be nice to see some more detailed pics of your setup?

On the rack, once again I'm tempted to go either with TCP or randalls just cause I'm not sure I would pull it of building it myself.
On the other hand I've allready spent way too much on my car as it is, and just maybe this is something that i should give a try.

I've read several threads on rack&pinion but yet to find a more detailed how-to or write up, that would be cool if someone took the time to do that.

My main concern would be how to make the brackets attaching the rack to the frame and the exact positioning of the rack. I know it supposed to go where the original drag link went.
Allthough looking att pictures of different installations I seesome racks placed in the center and some racks placed further to one side and the tie-rod-bracket offset to compensate.
Guess that has to do with clearance in engine compartment and headers and such?

 

[69gmachine]

69gmachine: yes your front suspension looked really neat, it's nice to see people who've gotten creative and made their one stuff.
I myself have gone with the GW coilover suspension, mainly because I dont feel i have the skills to make my own frontend eventhough it would have been fun.
It would be nice to see some more detailed pics of your setup?

On the rack, once again I'm tempted to go either with TCP or randalls just cause I'm not sure I would pull it of building it myself.
On the other hand I've allready spent way too much on my car as it is, and just maybe this is something that i should give a try.

I've read several threads on rack&pinion but yet to find a more detailed how-to or write up, that would be cool if someone took the time to do that.

My main concern would be how to make the brackets attaching the rack to the frame and the exact positioning of the rack. I know it supposed to go where the original drag link went.
Allthough looking att pictures of different installations I seesome racks placed in the center and some racks placed further to one side and the tie-rod-bracket offset to compensate.
Guess that has to do with clearance in engine compartment and headers and such?

When I started on my r&p design, the only one available was the TCP unit, and I didn't want to pay their price. Both Randall's and RRS came to market well before mine was drivable, both using the GM J car rack. In hind sight, I could have saved a small fortune and a lot of time had I bought a turn key kit. Although there is some satisfaction in designing it myself, there is an inherent limit to the build quality of the rack itself.

If you have a good command of geometry and are willing to read a couple of books on suspension design, you can figure out where to locate the pivot points. From there it's just a matter of designing the brackets to place it there. My background is in engineering not fabrication, so although I designed it myself, I had machine shops make the pieces for me. Unless you have a lot of time and patience, and a whole lot of money, go with the TCP kit.

If you've had a chance to drive the GW coil over set up, I'd be interested to know what you think about it. I changed both my suspension and steering at the same time and it made a night and day difference.

 

[fast_back_gta]

When I started on my r&p design, the only one available was the TCP unit, and I didn't want to pay their price. Both Randall's and RRS came to market well before mine was drivable, both using the GM J car rack. In hind sight, I could have saved a small fortune and a lot of time had I bought a turn key kit. Although there is some satisfaction in designing it myself, there is an inherent limit to the build quality of the rack itself.

If you have a good command of geometry and are willing to read a couple of books on suspension design, you can figure out where to locate the pivot points. From there it's just a matter of designing the brackets to place it there. My background is in engineering not fabrication, so although I designed it myself, I had machine shops make the pieces for me. Unless you have a lot of time and patience, and a whole lot of money, go with the TCP kit.

If you've had a chance to drive the GW coil over set up, I'd be interested to know what you think about it. I changed both my suspension and steering at the same time and it made a night and day difference.

Thank you for the advice.
I'm leaning towards the Randalls unit, mainly because of price but like I said I'm located on the other side of the ocean so in the end TCP might be just as cheap considering that the bigger warehouses stock their stuff.

As for pump, I see you went with a fox one, and I'm thinking I could pick one up from a salvage yard.

Yes the GW stuff looks good, I've always thought their stuff is up a notch over TCP but I havent had the chance to compare. Nor have I had the chance to drive yet cause my car is in body work stage right now.

Allthough on my last mustang, a 67 gta fastback I installed the oldschool GW negative roll system (no coilover) and dumped the factory power steering at the same time. It made a huge difference, but i was'nt copletely satisfied with the old steering box however. And that car still had it's original 14" styled steels and og rear suspension.

The ultimate would be to do one thing at a time so you can really feel what makes what. B
ut that don't work out in reality for me since my car needs a full resto more or less.

Been nice talking and thanks for the help.

Btw I think I've settled for a clutch kit, let me know what you think:
Mustangs Unlimited - The Source for Mustang Parts, Shelby Parts, Cougar Parts and Accessories

 

[69gmachine]

That should work nicely for your set up. Post some pics as you make progress.

 

[wickedmach1]

I agree that the Quicktime bellhousings work well. Using one in my 1970 Mach 1 with a TKO600. Very light and gives you the protection. Good luck.