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School me on how to adjust front wheel bearings

  • Thread starter Thread starter Black1987Stang
  • Start date Start date Jan 17, 2008

Black1987Stang

Active Member
Aug 22, 2004
1,422
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37
Jersey Shore
Jan 17, 2008
#1
  • Jan 17, 2008
  • #1
My front left tire was worn down to the threads on the outer corner (not the alignment), and now I'm hearing like a whirling/humming/grinding noise when im below 10mph and stopping or turning right. I JUST put a new tire on because I don't feel like having a blow out and killing myself. While it was on the lift it was checked out and the right wheel outer tie-rod had alot of slack in it. I'm changing that asap. But the grinding/humming noise would be the front wheel bearings correct? It made the same noise when my bro's truck's front bearings were shot. I'm putting on new control arms with new balljoints and control arm bushings(hoping to fix the left wheel wear) and new slotted rotors with new pads, bearings, and seals. How do I adjust the wheel bearings?

Spin the wheel and tighten the nut tight to seat the bearings and then let off how many turns? How does everybody do it?
 
L

loudexhaust

New Member
May 13, 2006
99
0
0
Jan 17, 2008
#2
  • Jan 17, 2008
  • #2
I spin my rotor and make sure it doesn't spin too freely and also make sure it doesn't stop the second i stop spinning.
 

fastford91

New Member
Aug 15, 2006
254
1
0
Niagara ,Ontario, Canada
Jan 17, 2008
#3
  • Jan 17, 2008
  • #3
yes it a bad bearing! buy new one repack it put it in and just tighten the nut finger tight! then use a socket and turn the rotor at the same time and tighten it until you feel it getting abit harder to turn ! but dont over do it! you ll burn it out! throw in cotter pin and your done!
 
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KGOFF

New Member
Nov 25, 2007
63
0
0
nj
Jan 17, 2008
#4
  • Jan 17, 2008
  • #4
snug bolt down...don't kill it...then take a 1/2 turn back....been doing this for 15 years never had a bearing burn....
 

TRWXXA

Member
Jan 18, 2003
190
1
19
RIGHT BEHIND YOU!!!... Made you look.
Jan 17, 2008
#5
  • Jan 17, 2008
  • #5
From the Ford Mustang Service Manual:

1. Raise vehicle until tires clear the floor.

2. Remove wheel cover. Remove grease cap from hub.

3. Wipe excess grease from the end of the spindle. Remove the cotter pin and nut retainer. Discard the cotter pin.

4. Loosen adjusting nut three turns. Rock wheel, hub, and rotor assembly in and out several times to push the brake shoe and linings away from the rotor.

5. While rotating the wheel, hub, and rotor assembly in a counterclockwise direction, tighten the adjusting nut to 17 - 25 ft-lb to seat the bearings.

6. Loosen the adjusting nut one-half turn, then retighten to 10 -28 in-lb, using an in-lb torque wrench.

7. Place the nut retainer on the adjusting nut, so the castellations on the retainer are in-line with the cotter pin hole in the spindle.

8. Install a new cotter pin, and bend the ends around the castellation flange of the nut retainer.

9. Check front wheel rotation. If the wheel rotates properly, install the grease cap and wheelcover. If rotation is noisy and rough, follow procedures under "Replacement and Lubrication.

10. Before driving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to restore normal brake pedal travel.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
28
119
Motor City
Jan 18, 2008
#6
  • Jan 18, 2008
  • #6
Replace those bearings ASAP. I have seen customer come in with old sample parts. The bearing got so hot it seized to the spindle. They need spindles, rotors and bearings..because they waited too long to just replace bearings.
 

corvetteguy

New Member
Jun 30, 2007
71
0
0
Jan 18, 2008
#7
  • Jan 18, 2008
  • #7
I always tighten the nut. Then you use a flat screwdriver between the
housing and the big washer. Keep loostening till you are able to slide the
washer under the nut. Go to next looser hole for pin. Check by spinning wheel and
seeing if you get any wobble
 

rd

Founding Member
Jan 12, 2000
3,316
63
109
Ocean Springs MS
Jan 19, 2008
#8
  • Jan 19, 2008
  • #8
I have been using the Ford Service Manual procedure posted above for 25 years or more, or a country boy variation, on my Capri, Mustangs, and trucks.

Pack with grease, install, tighten the nut while rotating until it gets a bit hard to turn, loosen, until it spins freely, hand tighten, then back off about 1/8 to 1/4 turn, and insert the cotter pin.

Seems to work fine.
 

RMODEL65

Member
Jul 6, 2005
313
1
18
brunswick ga
Jan 19, 2008
#9
  • Jan 19, 2008
  • #9
your supposed to use a beam type torque wrench. its the only kind you can use you have to do a rolling torque seat it then back it off then set to the proper torque in the service manual
 

sen2two

I've been lubing and pulling it all morning
5 Year Member
Jul 18, 2013
396
58
59
Aug 16, 2014
#10
  • Aug 16, 2014
  • #10
So I didn't have time to order the parts because shipping would take too long. I needed to change them ASAP. So I go to the parts store and when he asked me which brand of bearings do I want, I replied, "are any of them made in America or are all of them made in China?" He came back after looking at them in the back, and told me all of them are made in China. So at that point I just bought the cheapest one since they are all the same piece of crap. It's a sad day when you can no longer buy US made parts even if you want to pay at the extra money.
 

madspeed

Colonel Mustard
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
8,914
1,332
204
a van down by the river
Aug 16, 2014
#11
  • Aug 16, 2014
  • #11
4. Loosen adjusting nut three turns. Rock wheel, hub, and rotor assembly in and out several times to push the brake shoe and linings away from the rotor.


LOL at Ford

If it has rotors is aint got shoes
 
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