Especially when considering the 2500.00 required ”not stock” aftermarket block.
Especially when considering the 2500.00 required ”not stock” aftermarket block.Does this engine have a carburetor or aftermarket ECU ? I'm asking because you said its a 427..far from stock.
It has a MicroSquirt ECU. Car is still speed density. EFI system, 47lb injectors swapped to EV6 plugs on BBK rails into a Trick Flow intake.Does this engine have a carburetor or aftermarket ECU ? I'm asking because you said its a 427..far from stock.
Thank you. EFI, yes.First part of your process is right as stated, once it’s in at zero and the rotor pointed in the right spot there is no need to move or turn the dist again until you start the car up to actually set timing running . If this is a factory efi car make sure you pull the spout connector to set base timing. 12-14 on 93 is usually good.
The old 20mins at 2k rpm is to break in a flat tappet cam.. in the new world of roller motors as long as the cylinders dont get washed out with fuel on the first break in run you should be just fine. bearings dont "break in" they get oil or they dont..
That kind gentleman has helped me a few time (MORE THAN). I have been bothering him for weeks now. Thanks for the suggestion. He's good!You sure you have a decent tune to start? You might want to get with @a91what to confirm some stuff for you if you're not sure.
You don't do that on a roller engine. Just fire it up, set the timing and let it idle.Roller lifter engine?
Stock rebuild?
Fire it up, set the timing then you can run it at 2k rpms for 20 minutes, watch the temps and oil pressure, shut it down plug in the spout and send that bugger down the road.
And this is the conflicting info that has caused me to ask this question in this forum.You don't do that on a roller engine. Just fire it up, set the timing and let it idle.
I actually set it up at 12 degrees BTDC on the pointer and rotor pointing at cylinder one. The closer you eyeball it to where you want it to be, the better it seems to fire up.
Kurt
And this is the conflicting info that has caused me to ask this question in this forum.
And now this conflicting info.You don't do that on a roller engine. Just fire it up, set the timing and let it idle.
I actually set it up at 12 degrees BTDC on the pointer and rotor pointing at cylinder one. The closer you eyeball it to where you want it to be, the better it seems to fire up.
Kurt
Just do it this way,it's fine.And now this conflicting info.
Microsquirt. My appologies for the missing info.Before post #22 the only thing mentioned was 'new ecu' nothing about a mega squirt,
That's a huge help. ThanksYour not going to pull the spout at all with the microsquirt.. you lock the timing under ign settings and then match that locked value by adjusting the distributor. Car likely wont start with the spout pulled due to how the micro gets its rpm signal
No worries, I usually inquire what modifications were done.Microsquirt. My appologies for the missing info.
Well....it has cost me a little more than something stock. That's for sure.Especially when considering the 2500.00 required ”not stock” aftermarket block.
you’d know in a minute if that is a dart block..Is it a stock block? Because if it is, your engine does not displace 427 c.i.Well....it has cost me a little more than something stock. That's for sure.
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