shelby tractions bars

The stock shelby type bars are good but out dated a easy install and at about 300 dollars I would recomend Cal Trac bars they are awesome adjustable and are very easy to install You can find out more at Calvert racing.com
 
My experience with the shelby style traction bars is very bad... The front mount that welds to the frame actually started tearing the frame. I had someone who was more experienced with welding fix the frame up and he said that style traction bars suck and I should use an setup with some adjustment.
 
I have been thinking about getting these installed also, can someone explain the purpose and benefits of the adjustable Cal-tracs vs. the standard shelby style? and is the $200 price difference worth it just to solve my axle-hop?

my car is mostly a street car with very occasional strip and auto-x use.

thanks
 
I just installed my Caltracs this weekend. Installation was pretty easy. "The adjustments" that you can make consists of hand turning a bar to adjust preload on the front of the spring. just jack the car up, turn the bar and thats it. My car isnt on the road anymore, so I cant tell you how well they work. You do have to remove your front bushing in your psrings and replace it with a solid aluminum piece.
 
yeah i was also worried about ripping my rear torque boxes and i guess itll happen so ill be selling my shelby bars. i was thinking about the caltracs but as much street driving as my car see and the $300 diff between those and slappers im leaning more towards slappers until the slappers can no longer put the power down.
 
Lswhat said:
yeah i was also worried about ripping my rear torque boxes and i guess itll happen so ill be selling my shelby bars. i was thinking about the caltracs but as much street driving as my car see and the $300 diff between those and slappers im leaning more towards slappers until the slappers can no longer put the power down.

Buy a set of TCP subframe bars....they create a pocket to weld the underrider into so you don't have them on sheetmetal......very solid.

I have 0 wheel hop on my 65 with 393 rwhp and added rigidity from the subframe bars is a big plus.
 
I have custom made sub frame connectors on my 67 with the under-riders...........so far I haven't ripped my frame :rolleyes:

I would think you would have to put serious power into it to rip your frame...if it is done properly.....I only have 410hp.....so I don't need to worry.
 
I´m installing underrides also, and was thinking the effect of lowering blocks to under ride-style bars. The more you lower, the more there is leverage for rearend. I have 1" blocks now, and was wondering if anybody had any probs with these or 2" blocks??

I don´t think it´ll rip the frame, if there is reinforcement to divide stress to larger area, or subframeconnectors. Original frame frame may also be rusted from inside and weakened already?
 
Lots of cussin'. I saw an internet link and made made them and changed them to fit my needs. Sorry, I'm pretty computer retarded. Otherwise I'd give you the link. I even tries to post the pics, but having tons of problems. Look back 3 sentences.