Shock Tower Cracked - Need Opinions

[Grant65]

After pulling the engine out to strip and repaint the bay (along with replacing the inner fender under the remains of the battery tray), I found this:

Do I need to replace the entire tower, or can it be welded? I'm going to have the fender and front inner portion off anyway, and was planning on redoing the suspension while I'm in there (Shelby drop, new springs, etc). I'd rather weld it still if possible, but if it needs replaced, then now is the time...

Thanks,
Grant

 

[yeloxr7]

That doesn't look like normal cracking. Almost looks like something punctured it.

Anyway, get it repaired, then add one of these:

https://www.pro-motorsports.com/store/shock-tower-kit.asp

 

[mustangdave]

It looks like something knocked the crap out of it from the outer wheelwell. You can probably just hammer it back and weld it, (doesn't look like a stress crack).

 

[tos]

That could easily be fixed by a good body man. If he cares about his work and is a good welder you wont be able to tell it was damaged. I agree this is not cracking. Something went thru there.

 

[Jester67]

As others have said that is not stress cracks I am willing to bet someone punched that out so they could mound / have access to grease fittings and just did a half A$$ job of it. I have seen this before and I am planning on welding mine up. :damnit:

 

[DarkBuddha]

That is bad... real bad. And I have to disagree with the others in that it does indeed look like a severe stress crack that finally ended up flexing enough under load to distort the metal like that. The reason I say this is that this is almost exactly what my shocktower looked like when it failed and partially collapsed inward.

As you well know, the shocktowers are primary structural members of the front assembly. You cannot afford to have them be compromised in any way if you intend to do any real or regular driving in the car, so my recommendation is to replace the tower. The reason for this is that if the tower has already sustained that kind of damage, it is likely not isolated to that spot. The rest of the tower has flexed and may have small hairline cracks forming. This is also exactly what I found when my towers were replaced.

Now, all of that said, if you're bound and determined to not replace the tower and feel ok getting it welded, at least look at Pro-motorsports shocktower repair/reinforcement kit: https://www.pro-motorsports.com/store/shock-tower-kit.asp

Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

[Jester67]

All cracks I have seen have been parallel to the frame rail. That is the reason I don’t think this is stress. On the other hand I know for a fact mine where from the PO when I ask his response was yah I didn’t think it would hurt anything and the squeaking was killing me.

 

[chris txstang]

I found the exact same split on the 65 that I just bought. The PO installed a new suspension and left out all of the shims on the upper arms. The actual control arm was rubbing where the crack is. I thing he tightened the bolts until it split the tower, then driving just made it worse. I added shims to get the alignment right, and the control arm no loger contacts there. I plan on pounding it back in shape and adding the bracing kit when I do the shelby drop on this one.

Chris

 

[DarkBuddha]

BTW, after looking at the pic again, it is unlikely it was caused by an access cut/hole to the upper arm grease fitting. The reason I say this is that the original fittings were straight, which would've put the end of the fitting sticking towards the front and rear sides of the shocktower, not the inside face. This is what I mean:

 

[krash kendall]

I think chris txstang is on to something. The metal is bulged where the split is as if at some time the UCA was binding with it.

 

[Grant65]

I think chris txstang is on to something. The metal is bulged where the split is as if at some time the UCA was binding with it.

I agree. I know the previous owner of the car, and considering the number of time she managed to hit something with it (other cars, trees, etc) I wouldn't be surprised if this was caused by some kind of accident. I'm wondering if she managed to hit something with the front wheel and pushed the UCA into the tower...

I'll check it out more thoroughly tonight when I get home.

Thanks for all the help...

 

[Jester67]

BTW, after looking at the pic again, it is unlikely it was caused by an access cut/hole to the upper arm grease fitting. The reason I say this is that the original fittings were straight, which would've put the end of the fitting sticking towards the front and rear sides of the shocktower, not the inside face. This is what I mean:

You are correct I stand Err sit corrected. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

 

[12sec67]

here is what i did while also welding in the stress cracks

 

[allcarfan]

i had the exact same crack on the same spot on the same shock tower. My body guy actually cut that piece out and we welded in a 14 guage piece of steel in its place, then ground it down.

I am interested in this shock tower reinforcement kit that is mentioned, but i dont see any pics of it installed.

 

[tos]

I've got a long history with metals and stress cracks not to mention a long history as a mechanic. I am a machinist and welder working in a steel mill repair facility. we repair all the major steel mill rolls, gears, shafts and couplings. I am also a retired Jet engine mechanic and have seen tons of cracks. I'm not in any way bragging on my experience but I can say that is definately not from stress. One simple reason is the width of the opening versess the length. a stress crack will get longer and open up as it goes. A gap that open would have a very long crack. The bulging oy the metal also supports the beleif that something went thru there and someone has half way straightened it out. I'm with you in thinking the PO hit something. If you have the money to replace the shock tower I say go for it but I would repair it myself. Just my one and a half cents worth

 

[krash kendall]

Theory: She was backing up parrallel parking with the wheel turned all the way to the left and struck a curb with disintigrated strut rod bushings and worn inner cross shaft.

 

[tos]

Theory: She was backing up parrallel parking with the wheel turned all the way to the left and struck a curb with disintigrated strut rod bushings and worn inner cross shaft.

Good possibility

 

[Grant65]

Theory: She was backing up parrallel parking with the wheel turned all the way to the left and struck a curb with disintigrated strut rod bushings and worn inner cross shaft.

That's very likely what happened (or something similar). This car is a bodywork nightmare. I think the driver's door and passenger fender are the only two pieces of sheetmetal worth keeping (and not from rust, from dents).

I'm already using the remains of the hood (which had rusted away around the front lip area) as a "practice" part to learn to weld with.

Thanks for all the help so far...

Oops... almost forgot: I'd also like to see a picture of the tower reinforcement kit installed if anyone has one.

 

[my66coupe]

This is nothing but the upper control arm resting and rubbing up and down, causing the slit or crack. My shims recently popped out, causing the control arm to bind up and rub on the shock tower. Hammer it back to its original form while the engine is out, and weld it up. You should look on the other side and see if the UCA is resting on the shock tower. I had to remove the spring to relieve the pressure it was putting on the shock tower. You will need an alignment. Good luck

Mike

 

[mitchcj1]

So, what have you decided? I am replacing mine and wanted somebody to share the pain. Seriously, that looks like an easy weld up job at least compared to my 'crushed coke can' towers. anybody actually replace one? I got the air chisel going today, that thing is cool! No turning back now.