Should i put my supercharger on my brand new motor or break it in first?

[hoss331stang]

cool man, there is alot of em.....I'll have to send back that edelbrock carb i guess and get one of these....

I hate to keep on asking you things but do you know the number on the floats and everything else i need to build this thing for a supercharger?
Thanks

 

[nightrider50]

how long is a break in period generally on an engine? i want a GT-40X crate engine. how many miles till i could gun it and eat some rice?

 

[SmockDoiley]

I dont have the part number on me right now, and yes the floats you need can be hard to find because they are such a strange and hardly used part but if you go to Summit and type in nitrophyl in the word search you will get a list of floats. Just get the Holley ones with the notches in them because in at least the secondaries you will want to buy jet extensions. I will explain this to you. There are 2 jets in the front bowl, and 2 jets in the rear bowl. Well when you floor it the gas sloshes back and away from the jets which could lean out your blower motor , but if you buy Holley's screw in extensions, it moves the jets farther back into the bowl so the jets wont get uncovered when you floor it. But if you have extensions, the floats can tgo all the way down because the extensions will interfere with the float travel. So you buy the floats with notches in them to clear the extensions. I think the nitrophyl floats you want are 16 bucks or something and the jet extensions are like 5 or 6 bucks I think. Cheap easy stuff to install. Cut off the horn with a wheel cutter, JB weld the hole where the choke linkage use to go through, and install 22 bucks worth of parts, and your carb is ready for supercharging. Using an ebay carb, and a rebuilt kit, you could have a blower carb for less than 150 ready to run. When cutting the horn off, leave the bowl spout and the carb stud boss. Cutting these are bad news. If you are confused let me know. Scot Rod

 

[hoss331stang]

ok, i understand pretty much everything you just posted, except for this.

When cutting the horn off, leave the bowl spout and the carb stud boss. Cutting these are bad news.

And let me ask you a dumb question...what does the choke horn look like? Is it that big square looking thing on top of the carb where the choke itself along with it's linkage is? Thanks.

 

[SmockDoiley]

its that whole housing surrounding the primaries like a house with 4 walls and a roof(choke plate). You know where the carb stud screws into the carb. Thats part of the choke horn but dont cut it off because you need it because it has the threads to screw the carb stud into the carb. Also, each bowl has a vent sticking it out of it for air to escape, the top has a slanted cut like a huge surgical needle. This is also part of the choke walls, but cut around it. Basically, when you cut off the walls, you should have 2 towers sticking up, 1 in the center for the stud, and one in the front for the bowl. Hope this makes more sense.

 

[QDRHRSE]

650 too small

Doiley's on tear tonight so I'm a little scared to disagree with him but with a 331 and a blower I think a 750 would be a better idea. Even though you aren't going to see a lot of rpm you are going to be pushing a lot of air and fuel volume. A 650 works great on a 302 and a mild stroker but a blower....by the way, he's right about the Holley. Doiley's batting a thousand except for the carb size.

 

[Cammed90Notch]

Man Hoss, I'm sorry you've been bumping into so many stops along your engine build! When you get it together, head on out to a upstate Mustang club meeting and perhaps I'll be able to see it Sounds very nice

I'm currently rebuilding my motor, and also working on a h/c/i while I'm at it.

 

[charlesw6954]

i dont know why people are saying edelbrock are ****ty but they are not. i dont know if they are any good on a blower but i know that they are good with out one. i threw one on my old mustang and it woke the car up

 

[IndyBlk5.0]

wow carbs sound like a huge pain in the a$$

 

[SmockDoiley]

Carbs are actually easier than F.I. and a lot cheaper. A good carb with electric shoke will run in any weather and only costs about $300 plus $150 for the intake. F.I. is $450 for an intake, $150 to $200 for throttle body, plus injectors, MAF, cold air intake and what else. All your parts are like $1000. Then you gotta get the thing tuned and get the chip calibrated. Sounds more complex to me. A carb and intake swap takes me about an hour. Try changing all your fuel components that fast. Anyways. Your wrong about the carb size. A 750 would be too large. Go to any site that computes carb size for your engine size and then look at all the guys running blowthrough applications and its all about the 650. I know a guy running a built 350 with twin turbos. Guess what, 650. CFM is dictated by engine size and RPM, and since he is only running a 331 that wont see past 6500 rpms if he's smart, it doesnt need a 750. Trust me on this one. CFM has nothing to do with fuel, thats in the jets. He wont run lean with a 650, but a 750 will destroy his streetable and low end power. I've already built what he is doing so I know what the scoop is. Please dont pass this poor guy a bum scoop.

 

[Cammed90Notch]

SmockDoiley, not everyone would agree w/ your saying that carb's are easier. I know a guy who has been doing custom restoration, etc. on cars since he was 14. He is now in his 30s. One day I asked him if he thought FI or carbs were easier, and he laughed and said FI. He said there is less hassle and headaches w/ FI than carb. Don't you think that if carb's are better they would still make cars w/ them today?

 

[SmockDoiley]

I'm not saying carbs are better because FI sometimes gets better mileage and handles changes in weather better, but carbs are easier to install and much cheaper. Thats what I was saying

 

[Cammed90Notch]

I'm not saying carbs are better because FI sometimes gets better mileage and handles changes in weather better, but carbs are easier to install and much cheaper. Thats what I was saying

No problem