Should test fitting longtube headers really be this difficult?

[revhead347]

You could drop the K-member, but that's a lot more work than pulling the transmission out. Also, don't mess around with jerry rigging springs up and stuff like that. The leading cause of mechanic fatalities is from springs. Those can really do some damage if they aren't removed and installed properly. It's only a couple of hours to pull a transmission. It's even less work because you already have the exhaust out.

Kurt

 

[Venom351R]

does it matter as much with running coil overs? I hope I can do enough to get it up through the bottom w/ the tranny in it. I have a few ideas I'm going to try for more height and angle.

 

[revhead347]

Ah, not sure with coil overs. The safety won't be as much of a factor, but you are going to have to disconnect the strut at some point to reconnect the K-member.

Kurt

 

[Rick 91GT]

it shouldnt be that hard...some find it easier to put the headers in from the bottom with the k-member removed but that is a lot of extra work. With coil overs you do not have to worry about the spring issue Kurt is eluding to.

With the trans out of the mount/crossmember youll get a lot more angle out of the motor and it should drop in. I also leave the motor mounts off or disconnected.

One thing I do is wrap the headers up in pillow cases, then slide them in...this will help with scratches as you install,

 

[revhead347]

The danger won't be there, but it's not like you'll be able to keep that K-member straight and bolt it back in with the struts still attached. Either way, they are going to have to be unbolted.

Kurt

 

[Rick 91GT]

The danger won't be there, but it's not like you'll be able to keep that K-member straight and bolt it back in with the struts still attached. Either way, they are going to have to be unbolted.

Kurt

Very true, Id pull the struts.

 

[Venom351R]

I think if it comes down to it I'll take the tranny and bell housing out. I have friends that can help me install everything back in. Its just tough when your doing all this work literally on your own unless I had a friend come over to help. Thanks for the tip on the pillow case rick I'll do that.

I'll give it another shot today once it warms up some. I'll also remove the motor mounts as well. I'm going to place some 2x4's under the jack stand so I can get some more height out of them and use more blocks under the oil pan so I can get it up even higher. Hopefully its all enough, Id love to really be able to get these up in there w/ out taking the tranny out.

Rick, you as well as Kurt said that it should not be this hard, do you attribute it to the fact as well b/c it is a 351 and they are high port heads?

 

[Rick 91GT]

I hook up my hoist, disconnect the motor mount from the K-member and disconnect the driveshaft and the trans crossmember so I can get a good angle on it. Try to keep the starter on it, it can be a bastard to hook up once the header is on depending on how they bring that tube down in the SN chassis.

If you have to jack the motor up try to get underneath the oilpan rail/block....do not jack on the pan or balancer/crank.

 

[Venom351R]

can I use a 2X4 and just jack it from the bell housing? The starter is disconnected now just for the purpose of the most clearance as possible. If I ever get to the point of actually installing these I'll try it w/ the starter on lol

 

[Rick 91GT]

Yes but I think your going to need the front of the motor higher to get them in...Make sure the front of the car is as high as you can get it as well on jackstands

 

[Venom351R]

gotcha, what do you mean as far as underneith the oil pan/rail block? Is it not ok to jack it on the oil pan when using a 2X4 or some other type of block so you are not directly contacting it w/ the jack?

 

[revhead347]

The best way is to have a hoist holding the engine up from the top. I wouldn't trust a jack under the bellhousing. One slip, and that engine is going to crash down on the floor. If anything, I would at least lay a 2x4 across the engine bay, and ratchet strap the engine to it if you don't have a hoist handy. As for the tranny, I got a really awesome transmission jack on ebay for $80 shipped a few years ago. If you have a Tremec 3350 series, it's a bitch to pull out by yourself because of the weight. I don't even think about it now that I have the transmission jack. There is just a whole let less risk involved pulling the transmission. Not sure if you happen to have a tailshaft plug. If you elevate the car in the back, you can pull the driveshaft out without losing any gear oil, then stick a plug in it, and continue on.

Kurt

 

[Venom351R]

why cant I tust a jack under the bell housing? The K member is in the car I'm no taking it out unless I have to. I dont have an engine hoist. I cant do that method.

 

[revhead347]

Ok, I was talking about if you took the K-member out. Yeah, you can put a jack under the bellhousing, but if you have the transmission out, you will probably have the bellhousing out too. It's just a few more bolts, and it really frees up some space. Once you have the bellhousing out, you can easily lift the engine with a jack under the oil pan. Just distribute the weight with a piece of wood. I promise it won't damage your oil pan.

Kurt

 

[Venom351R]

I'm trying it today w/ out taking anything out other then the starter and the motor mount. I'm hoping that with getting the car up higher then I can get it up in there. If not then I will have to move on to either dropping the K member or removing the tranny. I do have a 3550. Id prob remove the tranny b/c getting that trans jack you have for $80 is cheaper then buying a hoist. I could also rent one locally.

 

[revhead347]

This is the one I got. It's up another $20 to $100 with shipping. It has the scissor system which is just way better than the hydraulic. The hydraulic is very hard to get the height just right. This one you fine tune the height with a 1/2" drive. An invaluable tool that you will surprised what else you can use it for. I'm about to pull the axles out of my trailer with it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-450-LB-CAPACITY-TRANSMISSION-AUTO-JACK-HOIST-LIFT-/230745777387?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b98524eb

Here is a used one that is currently at $60 shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transmissio..._Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item256cac046e

Once you have longtubes, putting the starter back in is more time consuming. Put the bottom bolt in tight, so that the starter is totally held in place. Then you have to go behind the transmission, and reach around the top to put the top bolt in. It's much easier to do it this way then to attempt it from the front side with extensions. Tighten the top starter bolt with a regular 1/2" wrench.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

Scratch that, Harbor Freight has it cheaper.

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-capacity-transmission-jack-39178.html

Kurt

 

[Venom351R]

Nice, that place is pretty sweet. I'll have to check the cost of renting one VS owning one plus who knows If I would ever need it down the road. I'll grab that one if It comes to having to remove the transmission. I'm heading into town to pick up a few things then going to try the headers again when I get home. Hope to have better news as far as results when I post again.

 

[revhead347]

Harbor Freight sells Chinese Junk, and I don't buy any tools there that are safety issue. But for a transmission jack, everything in your price is going to be made in China anyway, and there is only one grade of quality that comes out of China as far as I'm concerned. You won't be able to get the strap up in there and ratchet it down; there just isn't enough room. It doesn't make any difference though; the transmission platform on that jack is stable enough you don't need it strapped in. I will never pull a transmission without a jack again. For the price of jack these days, it's just not worth the hassle and the risk. The 3550 weighs 108lbs with fluid in it, and unless you are really big and strong, it's impossible to pull it by yourself safely. If they have one of these, go ahead and get it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=transmission+tailshaft+plug

That will pay for itself in not having to change the fluid in the transmission. If you elevate the back end of the car just a little bit you can pull the driveshaft out without losing any fluid. Then stuff that plug in there, and it will hold the fluid in while you pull the transmission.

Kurt

 

[Venom351R]

Thanks Kurt.

Well unlike charlie sheen, I'm not winning . The damn flange was touching the heads that's how close I got it but there is one huge issue. There is just not enough room between the ear on the bell housing where the starter goes and the A arm on the K member. The space between there is not big enough for all the tubes to squeeze through. I can unbolt the other motor mount so the engine raises higher but then I loose the angle of the engine twisting to one side. Looks as though I'm going to have to remove the transmission or the K member and from what each job looks like I'll be better off taking the transmission and bell housing. I took a rough pic with my phone, hard to get a pick while holding up the headers with one hand but it gives you kind of an idea. I want to accomplish something successful today so I'm going to and try and remove the bushing on the rear end and install the solid bushings.

also I was taking a look at the drivers side and it does not look as bad except for the steering shaft. This is the only bolt I could see on it, is this all I have to remove to get the steering shaft out of the way?