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Simple Question.

  • Thread starter Thread starter korsburn
  • Start date Start date Jul 7, 2005

korsburn

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
50
0
0
Jul 7, 2005
#1
  • Jul 7, 2005
  • #1
Im planning on changning out my drive shaft today after work and was just wondering what size the bolts were that hooked up the rear of the shaft to my rear end? I was told that i should get new ones when i change it out. And also what grade should i get? Thanks for any input you have.
 

DW5.0L

Member
May 28, 2005
172
0
16
Florida
Jul 7, 2005
#2
  • Jul 7, 2005
  • #2
Your bolts should be fine. I think you'll need 12 or 14mm.
 

korsburn

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
50
0
0
Jul 7, 2005
#3
  • Jul 7, 2005
  • #3
oh, alright thanks man. That saves me some time and alittle bit of money.
 

bullitstang1313

Member
Jan 21, 2003
713
0
16
Indianapolis / Columbus, Indiana
Jul 7, 2005
#4
  • Jul 7, 2005
  • #4
They are 12mm 12-point bolts, and I have reused mine several times now with no problems. You might want to have a drain pan handy under the rear of the transmission because some tranny fluid will drip from the tail shaft. Also, you might want some pb-blaster to help get those bolts looses, sometimes they have a lot of rust build up around them. Have fun.
 

woodyy24

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
290
0
0
illinois
Jul 7, 2005
#5
  • Jul 7, 2005
  • #5
yeah, you may need to have someone step on the brakes while you loosen them, they on there very tight. you may or may not need a drain pan, i didnt when i did mine, i just had the raer jacked up high enough that non of the fluid came out except for what was in the end of the driveshaft. you can reuse the bolts i have many times also.
 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.
Oct 22, 2004
930
4
18
Arlington, MA
Jul 7, 2005
#6
  • Jul 7, 2005
  • #6
You can put the 12 mm box end of a boxwrench on the driveshaft bolts and then smack the end with a mallet. It needs to be the 5-7 pound deadblow mallet so it has some momentum. They should pop loose after 1-2 good whacks. With the transmission in park/gear and the ebrake set, the car shouldnt move.
 

vristang

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
4,933
101
124
Seattle
Jul 7, 2005
#7
  • Jul 7, 2005
  • #7
12mm box end wrench. I bought the longest one I could find. Then I hit it with a hammer. E-brake on, Trans in gear. I put all four corners of the car on jack stands. I don't fit under the car when only one end is jacked up.

I'm not fat, I'm just big boned.

I also hit the bolts with a hammer when installing them.
 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.
Oct 22, 2004
930
4
18
Arlington, MA
Jul 7, 2005
#8
  • Jul 7, 2005
  • #8
Oh yeah, make sure you dont have a duuuuuuuh drooool moment like me and whack the bolts in the wrong direction

That was less than fun trying to free super torqued bolts.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Jul 7, 2005
#9
  • Jul 7, 2005
  • #9
If not mentioned, hitting the bolts with some heat loosens the threadlock.

Be sure to threadlock the bolts again when reinstalling them. I use a 3/8" ratchet wrench and 12 pt 12mm socket.
 
S

slow93

New Member
May 3, 2005
406
0
0
Jul 7, 2005
#10
  • Jul 7, 2005
  • #10
man i gotta try hammer thing when i put mine back in...i took them out without a wrench.(vise-grip fingers!!)
 

89MustangGX

I have nothing productive to add!
Jul 3, 2001
10,262
1
0
Mill Creek, WA
Jul 7, 2005
#11
  • Jul 7, 2005
  • #11
HISSIN50 said:
If not mentioned, hitting the bolts with some heat loosens the threadlock.

Be sure to threadlock the bolts again when reinstalling them.
Click to expand...

Yes on both!
 
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