simple question....
- Thread starter Roos
- Start date
Roland69
Sergeant Tangnet
Some of the aftermaket headers have individual flanges for each exhaust port. These type of headers tend to leak much more than headers with a one piece flange for all the exhaust ports on that side.
kpack5982
Yeah, it was pretty stiff, but eventually a buddy
I've had the same problem again and again, but finally fixed the problem with a new header gasket (less than 20 bucks a pair) and a little bit of copper rtv (6-7 bucks). Was kinda skeptical at first, but no problems after 8,000 miles. Took a little time massaging the heads just enough to get the gaskets in, but other than that, a breeze.
87foxstang
Member
yea that copper rtv stuff works really good. When you tighten the header bolts, your going to want to drive the car a little bit and once its warm check them again, and retighten them if you have to
87foxstang
Member
i have never heard of that, but i wouldnt personally do it. I have the BBK shorties on my car and i had a header gasket blow on me about 2 weeks ago, so maybe the gaskets BBK supplies are junk
I went with better metal ones, well not metal but i cant for the life of me think what they are called right now, it has been a long day, im sure someone will know what they are called. One side has a metal like finish on it, i thought they looked safer.
I went with better metal ones, well not metal but i cant for the life of me think what they are called right now, it has been a long day, im sure someone will know what they are called. One side has a metal like finish on it, i thought they looked safer.
For header gaskets I really like the dead soft aluminum style header gaskets.I have never had a problem with them leaking.
If you really want to pinpoint which primary the leak is coming from take a piece of 3/8" hose about 3' long and put one end to your ear, then run the other end around the header flange. You will really be able to hear where the leak is at. Also run it around where the ball and socket joint where the header and h pipe connect. Hopefully that will pinpoint where your leak is coming from.
If you really want to pinpoint which primary the leak is coming from take a piece of 3/8" hose about 3' long and put one end to your ear, then run the other end around the header flange. You will really be able to hear where the leak is at. Also run it around where the ball and socket joint where the header and h pipe connect. Hopefully that will pinpoint where your leak is coming from.
SuperStang83
Founding Member
I would just start loosening up the exhaust and retighten everything that you can if you have access to a lift. A lift makes doing this type of work so easy.
A machine shop can weld the flange and make the surface true.
Longtubes will cost more, and make a bit more bottom-mid range power.
They cost more and are not emissions legal if that is a concern.
H-pipe swaps or removals are easier, but installing longtubes and clutch installs will be more of a pain that short headers.
Longtubes sound better, in my opinion.
Longtubes will cost more, and make a bit more bottom-mid range power.
They cost more and are not emissions legal if that is a concern.
H-pipe swaps or removals are easier, but installing longtubes and clutch installs will be more of a pain that short headers.
Longtubes sound better, in my opinion.
but i can get bbk header and h pipe for 350ish to the door and it would probly cost the price to get new SHINY ones....so i think thats what im gonna do ive been wanting an hpipe any ways
