Smog stuff removal advise

I have a 1990 LX convertible. I'm contemplating removing all the smog stuff. I have read the discussions on here as well as other articles. I really familiar with codes, abbreviations etc. The main thing I'm curious is once I remove everything is there anything I need to do like change electronics or make adjustments?
Thanks...this is my first post on the forum.
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That’s a really nice, clean looking car, which I assume is mostly original?
If I am correct, I would not remove anything, and keep it original as possible.
 
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What’s your intent by removing the smog stuff? If it’s HP, there’s not much to gain.

most people lump them air pump system, EGR and charcoal canister in with the smog equipment.

if you still have cats, you’ll want to keep the air pump. If you’ve removed the cats, the air pump and all the plumbing can come off. Cap the vac lines off the solenoids and you’ll need to cap the pipe running to the rear of the heads. Stuff it in a box and sell it or save it.

EGR is not worth deleting on a stock ECU setup. It lowers combustion temps and improves part throttle fuel economy. Most delete it to clean up the engine bay. There are EGR delete plates and simulatirs but the EGR sims have been discontinued due to epa pressure. You’ll have to make your own or live with the check engine light.

charcoal canister can be removed but you are better off relocating it into the fender instead. Without the canister you may notice strong fumes especially on hot days. Some fab up small homemade canisters inside the fender.
 
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@Punky

Removing the pollution control equipment from a 5.0 Mustang is a bad idea. All you have accomplished is to make the computer mad and spit codes. The pollution control equipment all shuts off at wide open throttle, so the HP losses from it on the car are 2-5 HP. The catalytic converters may soak a few more HP than that. None of the pollution control equipment reduces the HP enough to cost you a race in anything but professional drag strip competition. I seriously doubt that you will be in the final runoff on “Pinks”, so leave the smog equipment in place and make sure it is working correctly.

Know what does what before removing it. Remove or disable the wrong thing and the computer sets the check engine light and runs in "limp mode". Limp mode means reduced power and fuel economy.

If you removed the smog pump and still have catalytic converters, they will ultimately clog and fail. There are some catalytic converters that claim that they don’t need the smog air pump, but these are designed to run with the newer OBDII computer systems that run much cleaner then the OBDI computer system that came on pre 1996 V8 Mustangs

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20-$45 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select books and then select search. Use the ISBN number (without dashes or spaces) to do a search

Use the ISBN number and your local library can get you a loaner copy for free. Only thing is you are limited to keeping the book for two weeks. It is very good, and I found it to be very helpful.

Remove any of the equipment and you will not pass a full smog check, cannot title the car in an area that does smog checks and have broken several federal laws. Granted that the Feds are short on people to check cars, but it is still Federal law.

"Why should I leave the smog equipment on if I live in an area that doesn't do smog inspections?"
What's good sauce for the goose is good sauce for the gander. I lived in Florida and had two smog pumps fail on two different 89 5.0 Mustangs. I replaced both of them, even though there was no emissions inspection. Why?

1.) It a federal law that requires emissions equipment to be in place and functional. I have no intention of breaking a law designed to protect my general health and wellbeing, even if I don't like it. I have respect for the rights and wellbeing of other people, and am not one of those whose nature is rebellion.

2.) Whatever imaginary "improvements" someone may strive for, there is very little evidence that the results of removing emissions results in a better car. I can achieve excellent results in performance with all the smog equipment in place and working properly. Maybe you can't, but that is no excuse for removing the emissions equipment. Look at the new 5.0 Mustangs – 281 cubic inches and 400+ flywheel HP with full emissions equipment with no aftermarket parts. That tells me that it is possible on a mass production car. It also shows that the guys that designed the engine knew what they were doing to achieve that goal.

3.) I like to breathe clean air, and working emissions equipment helps me do my part to make that possible. Los Angeles has breathable air even with millions of cars: Beijing, the capitol of China has some of the worst air in the world. Why – no emissions requirements for cars.

I don’t want to live where the air looks like this…
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See http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/feat/archives/2014/01/15/2003581312
 
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The epa is getting more active in the automotive industry, diesel trucks 'rolling coal' and loud tuner cars popping and bang'n on city streets have gotten their attention. They are coming after us through legislation and it's coming to a state near you, in many states/cities they are starting to enforce emission laws that have been on the books for years, some mandate a inspection before sale/registration and it's expanding behind the scenes, it is already getting harder to find some aftermarket speed parts,
If it's stock, complete and original I say keep it that way.
Enjoy the ride.
 
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I kept all my smog stuff, I have only two cats and no mufflers just resonators and I pass emissions every year.
 
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I kept all my smog stuff, I have only two cats and no mufflers just resonators and I pass emissions every year.
They (epa) don't care if it passes the sniffer test, they say the smog equipment has to be there and fuctional.
A cop (in some states) can pull you over, make you open the hood and if the smog stuff ain't there tow it to a referee station and the possibility of losing it it real. This is happening in some major cities in comifornia now.
That said, I ain't putting the smog stuff back on my car anytime soon (if ever), they can suck a tailpipe, my car has two they can choose from.
And if it ever happens to me I will set it on fire,
If you really want to make them mad you can swap a newer (like a coyote engine) then all it needs is the pollution control equipment for the year engine installed,
Now this is from what I have been reading lately so there may be some variations, so much info out there and it can get confusing and everybody here knows I get confused easily.
So modify or not, it's your car. Enjoy the drive.
 
@General karthief as a part of getting my car street friendly (after being a stock appearing class car with the PO), I added the equipment back in. The computer is happier, it idles better and gets 21.5 mpg on the highway. Part throttle response and stabbing the throttle response are much better. Without slicks, I have not felt it to be one bit slower.
Please do not burn your car for a smog check.
 
@General karthief as a part of getting my car street friendly (after being a stock appearing class car with the PO), I added the equipment back in. The computer is happier, it idles better and gets 21.5 mpg on the highway. Part throttle response and stabbing the throttle response are much better. Without slicks, I have not felt it to be one bit slower.
Please do not burn your car for a smog check.
I won't, don't worry. Now you may see a video on the tube about me leading the cops on the second slowest police chase in polk county history, if they take my car I'll just steal the sheriff's car (I know where he parks it) and hold it ransom.
 
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I won't, don't worry. Now you may see a video on the tube about me leading the cops on the second slowest police chase in polk county history, if they take my car I'll just steal the sheriff's car (I know where he parks it) and hold it ransom.
I hope it is at least a Crown Vic or Charger so it will be fun to drive before they toss you in the hokey.
 
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Removed mine largely because I got a rebuilt pump, since bearings were dry and rough, and within a couple hundred miles it was so noisy to the point of being embarrassing. The loud clicking/puffing sound of the air pump really makes your car sound like a beater I think. That and I wanted to run some small Magnaflow cats without need for the pump. Can run a shorter belt with no need for an idler pulley, really cleans up a lot of stuff on that side of the engine.