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smooth drip rail

  • Thread starter Thread starter Travis77
  • Start date Start date Jul 26, 2006
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Travis77

Member
Oct 1, 2004
153
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16
Baytown, TX
Jul 26, 2006
#1
  • Jul 26, 2006
  • #1
Got another drip rail removal question for you veterans.
Before I start on my 67 fastback, I'm a little confused where my cut should be in relation to the small hump above the drip rail. The small ridge is just on the top portion of the window. Should I cut above the ridge, or below it? If I cut below, I guess the hump or ridge needs to be ground down. But since this hump is not solid, grinding it down would make it paper thin .

I Included a picture looking from the passenger side top rear corner. At what line should I make my cut? One mark is obviously above this hump, and one is below. I realize this picture sucks.


http://www.dropshots.com/day.php?userid=130137&cdate=20060726&ctime=120524
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
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0
Southlake, TX
Jul 26, 2006
#2
  • Jul 26, 2006
  • #2
picture is confusing... You want to cut the outer arrow'd part. If you cut further back, you will have to weld in a patch panel....here is an UGLY drawing

View attachment 452888

The drip rail is actually 2 stamped sheetmeal pieces overlapping eachother and they get spotwelded down the "U" part of it. You want to cut along the flat spot but NOT cut into the humped part. Then you need to weld down the whole seam and grind it smooth. TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!!!!! If you dont cut straight, its hell to make the driprails straight again

<----- Knows from experience
 

Travis77

Member
Oct 1, 2004
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16
Baytown, TX
Jul 26, 2006
#3
  • Jul 26, 2006
  • #3
That is what I figured. Basically I need to use the lower edge of the hump as a cutting guide while on the top portion and blend close to the body when I get to the sides.
Once finished welding it up, what do I need to do with the small depression just before the hump. Use a little filler to totally smooth it out?
Thanks for having patience. I am obviously nervous about doing this and do not want to regret it once done
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
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Southlake, TX
Jul 26, 2006
#4
  • Jul 26, 2006
  • #4
Travis77 said:
That is what I figured. Basically I need to use the lower edge of the hump as a cutting guide while on the top portion and blend close to the body when I get to the sides.
Once finished welding it up, what do I need to do with the small depression just before the hump. Use a little filler to totally smooth it out?
Thanks for having patience. I am obviously nervous about doing this and do not want to regret it once done
Click to expand...

Hopefully you wont need filler...the 2 pieces of metal are not spaced out like the picture, they touch eachother. You just weld (VERY SLOWLY) the whole line and grind it down.

Id recommend using a grinder with a 4" cutting disc and going really slow on the cut. Definately not something you want to rush. When you get done cutting it, you will see something like an equals sign = ... the tow layers of metal one ontop of the other. They might seperate a bit since the spotwelds you cut off were holding it together. Just weld down that whole seam. have you ever welded body panels?
 

Travis77

Member
Oct 1, 2004
153
0
16
Baytown, TX
Jul 27, 2006
#5
  • Jul 27, 2006
  • #5
I have welded panels before. I may be missing something here. I realize that when I cut the drip rail off there will be several body panels which are crimped together. I will take my time and weld it up. Grind down and try to use little bondo.
But, I still need to know if this hump stay or does it end up getting ground down after I weld it up. Because if this hump remains, it will not have a smooth look when completed above the window.
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
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Southlake, TX
Jul 27, 2006
#6
  • Jul 27, 2006
  • #6
The hump stays...you only shave the driprail
 

Travis77

Member
Oct 1, 2004
153
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16
Baytown, TX
Jul 27, 2006
#7
  • Jul 27, 2006
  • #7
Thanks for all the info.
Started trying to cut one side off using my cut off wheel, but thinking of borrowing a saw saw. Cut off wheel wasn't working too good.
 

Jester67

Member
Sep 21, 2004
908
1
18
TN
Jul 27, 2006
#8
  • Jul 27, 2006
  • #8
Should you cut a section tack weld it then move on instead of cutting all of it first then welding it back together?
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
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0
Southlake, TX
Jul 27, 2006
#9
  • Jul 27, 2006
  • #9
Jester67 said:
Should you cut a section tack weld it then move on instead of cutting all of it first then welding it back together?
Click to expand...

thats a good idea
 

Travis77

Member
Oct 1, 2004
153
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16
Baytown, TX
Jul 27, 2006
#10
  • Jul 27, 2006
  • #10
I hate to keep asking all these repetitive questions, but this is still bugging the crap out of me.
When you say that the humps stay, you are meaning that they are not cut off. But seriously, I do not see how these are not at least ground down or something. Can't find a good close up example.
I have stared at this joker for a long time and can't picture how it will end up looking correct without modifying this hump. I thought maybe that if it is meant to be left, and that it is a solid seam, I could grind it down flush. But I drilled a hole with a tiny drill bit and found out that that is not an option because it's hollow. Maybe I will figure it out as I begin cutting. I was just wanting to know what I am getting myself into. Yes, your going to have to hold my hand on this one. Xoxbxfx, I do really appreciate the info your giving me.
 

67Dylan

New Member
May 11, 2006
259
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0
Phoenix, AZ
Jul 27, 2006
#11
  • Jul 27, 2006
  • #11
Travis, you need another set of eyes. You know how you stare at something too long and someone new comes by and points out the obvious... I've had that happen before .

xoxobxfx, thanks for the info you're providing. I am going to cut my drip rail as well and this post couldn't have come at a better time.
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
0
0
Southlake, TX
Jul 28, 2006
#12
  • Jul 28, 2006
  • #12
ok...heres teh best I can do for some pictures. This is FUBAK's car (he used to be on her a while ago)


Here you can see the "hump" is still there but the actual driprail is gone. The driprail is just the "L" shaped part that holds the chrome trim. The purpose is to drrp rail from dripping straight down into the car. Cutting off the L shape is shaving the driprails

Here is another car with shaved rails. Dunno who's it is.



Here is apicture of a 66 coupe Im working on... I completely shaved the hump though, not just the drip rail
View attachment 452556
 

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LUCAFU1

Founding Member
Apr 19, 2001
496
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16
Tucson
Jul 28, 2006
#13
  • Jul 28, 2006
  • #13
here is the start of mine. you can get away with filler or fiber glass to get them some but im gonna weld, grind, weld, grint.........untill i like them.

View attachment 452551
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
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Southlake, TX
Jul 28, 2006
#14
  • Jul 28, 2006
  • #14
LUCAFU1 said:
here is the start of mine. you can get away with filler or fiber glass to get them some but im gonna weld, grind, weld, grint.........untill i like them.

View attachment 452549
Click to expand...

you HAVE to weld them...the body will flex adn the mud will crack
 

Travis77

Member
Oct 1, 2004
153
0
16
Baytown, TX
Jul 28, 2006
#15
  • Jul 28, 2006
  • #15
I may need that extra set of eyes. You should thank me for looking so ignorant on the matter.
Thanks for all the pictures. All the cars I have seen had everything removed. If I'm going to go as far as removing the rails, the hump is going as well.
Just when you thought I was through
Let's get this in steps
1) cut/ weld, cut/ weld until drip rails is removed & seam welded together
2) grind/weld, grind/weld some more until the hump is removed
3) fill in any low spots with weld and do light grinding until looks good
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
0
0
Southlake, TX
Jul 28, 2006
#16
  • Jul 28, 2006
  • #16
Travis77 said:
I may need that extra set of eyes. You should thank me for looking so ignorant on the matter.
Thanks for all the pictures. All the cars I have seen had everything removed. If I'm going to go as far as removing the rails, the hump is going as well.
Just when you thought I was through
Let's get this in steps
1) cut/ weld, cut/ weld until drip rails is removed & seam welded together
2) grind/weld, grind/weld some more until the hump is removed
3) fill in any low spots with weld and do light grinding until looks good
Click to expand...

the best thing you can do now is just stop and let a professional do it if you really want to take out the hump by using welding and grinding. If you cut it out, you wil have to make a patch panel. By the time you get done welding its going to look all distorted. I would highly recommend filling the recessed spot with dynaglass and smooth it.
 
M

mustangman70

Founding Member
Dec 30, 2001
1,235
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0
St pete, Florida
Jul 28, 2006
#17
  • Jul 28, 2006
  • #17
other then looks, is there any other reason to shave it off???
 

xoxbxfx

Founding Member
May 9, 2001
3,959
0
0
Southlake, TX
Jul 28, 2006
#18
  • Jul 28, 2006
  • #18
mustangman70 said:
other then looks, is there any other reason to shave it off???
Click to expand...

nope...the driprail is there for a reason
 
M

mustangman70

Founding Member
Dec 30, 2001
1,235
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St pete, Florida
Jul 28, 2006
#19
  • Jul 28, 2006
  • #19
haha thats what i thought
 
Reactions: VonH

Jester67

Member
Sep 21, 2004
908
1
18
TN
Jul 28, 2006
#20
  • Jul 28, 2006
  • #20
There is one thing I am compelled to point out the roof of a unit-body car is an important part of the structure. IMHO, care must be taken when removing the drip rails as any thin spot would have a tendency to flex and crack in short order.
 
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