Sn95 351w swap

im going to swap a 351 in my sn95 it’s a complete motor and trans comes with it im thinking all it need is drop motor mounts and offset bushing for the steering rack and I’d be able to use my exhaust set up? Help me figure out what else I need to do.
 
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The SN95 is the easiest 351 swap out of all the late model Mustangs. That doesn't mean you aren't in for a lot of surprises. Obvious stuff first. You'll need to take the timing chain cover and water pump off your 302 engine and put it on the 351. You will need a longer serpentine belt; least of your problems. You'll need different motor mounts to lower the engine a little. Use either factory 302 or Trick Flow valve covers. The alternator sits way back on the SN95, and is almost certainly not going to fit with any stock 351 valve cover. You are going to be fighting intake clearance with the stock hood, and the valve covers play a huge part in that. You need a swap distributor for the 351W. Getting your current exhaust to work with the 351 is going to be a nightmare. Plus if you are going through all the hassle of putting a 351 in a Mustang just to put stock exhaust on it, you might as well stick a straw up your ass next time you have to take a dump and report back on how well that works out. You are going to need a 351 swap exhaust.

Give us some more information on what your goals are, and be humble about receiving hard advice. I have been doing this for 26 years now, and I have spent the last 2 days on the phone with Strange and Moser getting humbled myself with how little I know. I keep a consistent message; stick to bolt on parts when possible. I'd hate to see you spend $3k on a 351W junkyard swap that makes 250hp, when you could order a Trick Flow top end kit for $2500 to put on your stock short block that makes 350hp, and installs in 2 afternoons, and a case of PBR.

Kurt
 
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@joetrainer31Did a real clean install a few years back, here’s the link-

 
Put a 94 351W truck motor with roller cam with my son in a 94 GT a couple of years ago.

In 95 a Mustang came with the 351W, possibly the Cobra. Buy an aftermarket shorty header kit for this engine and you can use your existing cat system. May have to pry it slightly to get it to fit. Or use an aftermarket X pipe.

Started with polyurethane stock height motor mounts but eventually sagged allowing 7 quart oil pan to hit steering rack. Switched over to stock solid mounts and added a couple of washers between mount and block to add clearance. Not sure why they say you need drop mounts unless there is a hood clearance issue. I have an aftermarket raised hood. Maybe you can drop with the stock oil pan but not with the 7 quart aftermarket.

Switch distributor, timing cover, starter and water pump as suggested. If there is corrosion on the timing cover to block surface around the cooling ports, replace the cover.

Make sure you have the correct balanced flywheel for the year engine you have- a stock 302 will not work because the engine balance is different. Same with damper. Different year 351W engines are balanced differently so you need to figure out what you have and buy a damper and flywheel to match.

Not positive but I believe the alternator and power steering brackets bolted up but as someone else noted you need a longer belt because the deck height (distance from center of crank shaft to face of head) is different between the 302 and 351.

Installed the trick flow heads (drilled out for 1/2" diameter head bolts) and upper manifold from the 302 as well. Had to buy a new lower manifold made for the 351W.

Check the cams firing order. If different you will also need to switch the injector and plug wiring.

If your oil pan and oil pump pickup are not the dual sump pan style you will need to buy one.

Not to hard to do because you just need to find the right parts to bolt on.

The 302 engine tore itself apart at 150K with 2 teenage kids driving it. Block cracked up the middle and crank broke in half. The 351W is built to withstand much more power.
 
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