Sn95 5.0 Engine Rebuild

stykthyn · Jul 29, 2016

Davedacarpainter said:
These "bunion holes", where do I get them?

All further bunion hole activity has stopped until the red ones come in.

Brian Berthold · Jul 29, 2016

a91what said:
that is actually a pretty solid idle. you really need to check for engine codes.
besides the idle [which IMO isn't that bad] have you noticed any other issues??

NEVER idled that that before ...
yes .. no power .. a grandma in an escort blew my doors off from a stop light

stykthyn · Jul 29, 2016

Without codes we can only guess at this point what is wrong.

Brian Berthold · Jul 29, 2016

stykthyn said:
Without codes we can only guess at this point what is wrong.

yep i know dont have the $$ to by a reader as of right now next week il get it

mikestang63 · Jul 29, 2016

Brian Berthold said:
yep i know dont have the $$ to by a reader as of right now next week il get it

All you need is a paper clip and if a pre 89 a test light

a91what · Jul 29, 2016

Brian Berthold said:
yep i know dont have the $$ to by a reader as of right now next week il get it

an OBD1 reader is only 20$.... if you buy a 100$ OBD2 scanner there will be nowhere to plug it in at.

all you need is a paper clip to pull codes on your car, it will do the same thing the reader will. then you count the number of times the check engine light blinks....

@jrichker test procedure please sir.

Brian Berthold · Jul 29, 2016

ok so found a OBD 1 reader but when he plugs it in he says it powers up but doesnt connect to the car guy said migh be a fuse .. can someone tell me where said fuse would be and if that eve sounds right or was O'Reilly Auto Parts guy messing with me .. but he says he smells it being rich ..

stykthyn · Jul 29, 2016

On obd2 non connectivity is a fuse issue. There is no fuse between the diagnostic port and the ecu on our cars. If you aren't going into diagnostic mode there is an issue. Most likely with the tester having loose pins.

Brian Berthold · Jul 29, 2016

ok i must be missing it i looked back (thought it was posted) but cant find the how to get codes with paper clip

stykthyn · Jul 29, 2016

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...codes-from-eec4-in-86-95-5-0-mustangs.889006/

It's the 2nd diagram down

mikestang63 · Jul 29, 2016

stykthyn said:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...codes-from-eec4-in-86-95-5-0-mustangs.889006/

It's the 2nd diagram down

Or even a long piece of wire will work. with male connectors crimped on each end....

stykthyn · Jul 29, 2016

That would be ideal and is what I keep around to jumper the fuel pump from the test block.

Brian Berthold · Jul 29, 2016

so i know this vid is about GMC but thats how would jumper in my 94 stang right??

cuz i dont see a plug under the hook that looks like whats in those pictures

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOu9KG0bvZM

Brian Berthold · Jul 29, 2016

also wile looking at readers im seeing OBD 1100 OBD 1000 ODB 1050 OBD 1150 and so on ... (looking at O-reily as they are right by me) .. so can someone tell me what OBD we have in the 94's

mikestang63 · Jul 29, 2016

go to 6:30 of the video.... good luck

Brian Berthold · Jul 29, 2016

mikestang63 said:
go to 6:30 of the video.... good luck

so i shouldnt watch the vid at all is what your saying?

mikestang63 · Jul 29, 2016

10 seconds on google--- for a 95 gt

old_blue · Jul 29, 2016

Put on the brakes.... Did I miss something?

When you had the engine rebuilt did the shop take out the engine? Rebuild entire motor? If i read your thread correctly then the answer to both of these is yes.

Answer this- have you taken car back to shop to address your issues? Is there a warranty?

If you haven't taken the care to him to see if he'll fix it under warranty then I would NOT try to self diagnostic test this yourself. Once you start messing with things you could void any warranty that may be on the motor.

Guys have tried to help you from the get go and you are going to piss people off by asking for advice and then ignoring it.

At least one has asked you if you have taken it back to the shop to get it looked at and I did not see the answer. Don't waste your money if they will fix it for free under warranty. It could be a simple timing issue for the distributor slipping.

92NOTCH01 · Jul 29, 2016

old_blue said:
Put on the brakes.... Did I miss something?

When you had the engine rebuilt did the shop take out the engine? Rebuild entire motor? If i read your thread correctly then the answer to both of these is yes.

Answer this- have you taken car back to shop to address your issues? Is there a warranty?

If you haven't taken the care to him to see if he'll fix it under warranty then I would NOT try to self diagnostic test this yourself. Once you start messing with things you could void any warranty that may be on the motor.

Guys have tried to help you from the get go and you are going to **** people off by asking for advice and then ignoring it.

At least one has asked you if you have taken it back to the shop to get it looked at and I did not see the answer. Don't waste your money if they will fix it for free under warranty. It could be a simple timing issue for the distributor slipping.

For reals....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brian Berthold · Jul 30, 2016

dont think any of the testing will work .. so take 2 went to a different place to have the read the codes .. same thing they also said check the fuse ... i told them what i read here that there isnt a fuse ... but there is we looked in my book the OBD cig lighter and lumbar is all on a 20/30 amp fuse OBD and cig lighter doesnt work but lumbar does ... so it looks liek i now have to take the car into ford to find the problem ...

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