Fn harmonic balancer is stuck like a mofo. I have the right tool - its a little hacked cause the bolts were bent, but the HB is refusing to budge!
yea - turns out the tool was a bit harder to use than expectedMake sure you took the bolt out and the washer too
Any tips/tricks for taking off the timing cover? The top is unseated from the gasket fine, but the bottom part, the part which attaches to the oil pan doesnt seem to be moving. We did remove the 4 oil pan bolts, ground strap bolt, 2 middle right, 2 middle left and upper bolts.
Just read through your thread. Looks like your getting a lot done. Sorry your having trouble.
In my experience getting the timing chain cover off can take some finessing. With the oil pan tight it tends to hold on to the cover. If you have a broken stud it is probably hindering the amount of movement of the cover that you would have other wise. You might have to use something to wedge/pry the cover forward. If you do go that route be careful with what you use as you dont want to damage surfaces. Also if the key for the harmonica balancer is still on the crank shaft if will keep things from moving forward.
Are you planning to change the oil pan gasket?
In my experience getting the timing chain cover off can take some finessing. With the oil pan tight it tends to hold on to the cover. If you have a broken stud it is probably hindering the amount of movement of the cover that you would have other wise. You might have to use something to wedge/pry the cover forward. If you do go that route be careful with what you use as you dont want to damage surfaces. Also if the key for the harmonica balancer is still on the crank shaft if will keep things from moving forward.
Are you planning to change the oil pan gasket?
It's been a minute but I remember something about a couple pins or something that center the cover, you can't pry up from the pan, just get a couple small screw drivers and gently tap them in between the bottom two bolts that hold the cover to the block.
Tap,tap,tap, wiggle, wiggle, wiggle.
Tap,tap,tap, wiggle, wiggle, wiggle.
There are two alignment roll pins. Do as JR suggests. Gently work it forward.
Got everything out, couple questions:
- should I just replace the HB? A friend is saying just to do it as it can go bad from the removing.
- what order should I reinstall everything? I was guessing tstat first before timing cover, HB, etc.
- I saw a video about performing the first pressure test with plain water, just to not have to mess around with antifreeze. Thoughts?
- should I do a full flush of the block when this is done? I read the 10hrs of drive time then change the oil. Thoughts?
Thanks all
- should I just replace the HB? A friend is saying just to do it as it can go bad from the removing.
- what order should I reinstall everything? I was guessing tstat first before timing cover, HB, etc.
- I saw a video about performing the first pressure test with plain water, just to not have to mess around with antifreeze. Thoughts?
- should I do a full flush of the block when this is done? I read the 10hrs of drive time then change the oil. Thoughts?
Thanks all
I would change the harmonic balancer if it has any signs of delimitation. No damage if you used a puller but it is cheap enough to replace.
If it’s stock replace it . I replace them all with a Powwrbond PB1084ss . You cannot beat them for the money . Made by gates in Australia . Even though you aren’t racing this thing they are sfi approved . Look just like stock but much better quality and the timing marks are laser etched . Last time I went to order a junk ford racing one it didn’t even have timing marks and the rubber was already protruding . I run the neutral balance version of this same balancer on my blown 347 .Got everything out, couple questions:
- should I just replace the HB? A friend is saying just to do it as it can go bad from the removing.
- what order should I reinstall everything? I was guessing tstat first before timing cover, HB, etc.
- I saw a video about performing the first pressure test with plain water, just to not have to mess around with antifreeze. Thoughts?
- should I do a full flush of the block when this is done? I read the 10hrs of drive time then change the oil. Thoughts?
Thanks all
$60 shipped from AA. Is that for real?? Summit is 150!And you can get one at advancedauto parts!
What is the seal in the timing cover called? Im assuming I should replace that also. Type matter?
Are you talking about the front main seal?
lmr.com
I'm not recommending the one above. Just using it as a reference. As far as that goes I'll let the other guys chime in.
Mustang Front Main Seal (79-95) 5.0/5.8 LRS-6700B - LMR
Replace a leaking 1979-1995 Mustang front main seal with this direct replacement seal from Late Model Restoration!
I'm not recommending the one above. Just using it as a reference. As far as that goes I'll let the other guys chime in.
I think thats the one. Turns out it comes in the gasket kit at LMR so ill just replace it. Thank you!Are you talking about the front main seal?
Mustang Front Main Seal (79-95) 5.0/5.8 LRS-6700B - LMR
Replace a leaking 1979-1995 Mustang front main seal with this direct replacement seal from Late Model Restoration!lmr.com
I'm not recommending the one above. Just using it as a reference. As far as that goes I'll let the other guys chime in.
eighty5fox
Mustang Master
Im from mass i have a timing cover that is sandblasted ready to paint and also believe i have a balancer if you have any interest.
Awesome, thanks for the heads up. I ended up ordering earlier the HB and gaskets. My cover cleaned up pretty well. When I am looking next time, ill drop you a line first. Thanks again!Im from mass i have a timing cover that is sandblasted ready to paint and also believe i have a balancer if you have any interest.
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