What does it mean that my PVC doesn’t have a valve and just a tube? Am I supposed to use this valve and then block off the top tube connector? Does something else go there?
Progress Thread Snow - 93 GT Vert. Prepping for sale
- Thread starter JAA
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TY!
Found corroboration: https://foxbodyproject.wordpress.com/2016/11/28/foxbody-pcv-valve-replacement/
Well this is annoying
Brand new EGR leaking in the same way as before
My real issue is the lower intake PCV port. Is there a trick to stop vacuum leaks here? In some advertisements I see o-rings. Is there supposed to be o-rings here?
Brand new EGR leaking in the same way as before
My real issue is the lower intake PCV port. Is there a trick to stop vacuum leaks here? In some advertisements I see o-rings. Is there supposed to be o-rings here?
Double checking lower intake has the PCV baffle installed
Im reading that the ford intake is a tiny bit too big for the grommets now. Advice is to use teflon tape or black RTV
Im def getting oil on the inner portion on the silver portion of the valve. I imagine this is allowing the leak?
I use black RTV to seal the grommet to the lower intake, the valve should fit pretty snug, if you are sucking oil into the PVC valve I would check for excess blow by.
Start the engine, open the oil fill cap. Does smoke puff out? Hold your hand over the hole sealing it off, can you feel a little vacuum pull?
BTW can you take a vacuum reading?
Some have experienced oil splash at the back of the manifold/lifter valley area getting sucked up into the PVC screen/valve, the baffle in there is pretty small compared to later manifolds but I believe this issue was on drag/road race cars and possibly the use of high volume oil pumps.
For pics of the baffle difference check the last page or two of my 'slow-progress ' thread.
BTW can you take a vacuum reading?
Some have experienced oil splash at the back of the manifold/lifter valley area getting sucked up into the PVC screen/valve, the baffle in there is pretty small compared to later manifolds but I believe this issue was on drag/road race cars and possibly the use of high volume oil pumps.
For pics of the baffle difference check the last page or two of my 'slow-progress ' thread.
No smoke
Small vacuum. Car starts to think about stalling when opening the cap.
Im going to have to take off this upper intake. I thought I had it in perfect, but new valve is leaking already.
Gonna RTV in grommet. Then gonna get a new valve and put it in proper. I already cut hose to a perfect length. This is annoying.
Gonna RTV in grommet. Then gonna get a new valve and put it in proper. I already cut hose to a perfect length. This is annoying.
AmI doing any damage driving around with this leak? I idle like 1k, but dont see any other issues. Maybe running rich and Im sure gas mileage, but I can handle those. Anything else?
Howdy all
Snow is back in action for the season. However, the start of the season was a bit tricky. How about a nice long n00b story?
Some context, I replace my old amp with a new one last year.
Battery was disconnected in the offseason but was still d-e-a-d. Its a stinky duralast, you can lecture me later. Got it running and charging, but I observed the battery wouldnt keep a charge right when using the radio. I also bought a trickle charger which stated it would fully charge after 6 hours. LOL, look like 3 days to go green! No worries, so I started taking around a battery jump pack with me and didnt play the radio much. Car was driving well after fixing the lower intake grommet with some black RTV. While the idle isnt perfect, its pretty good for now.
Yesterday I was headed out to the local car show. Across the street I got gas, not using the radio. Went to start it and it didnt start, starter was struggling. WTF. I figure its a crappy duralast battery and had already researched which batter to get (below). I pop the hood and this time finally notice that the accessory bolts on the battery terminal were loose, DUH!
Go across the street to the car show. End up parking next to a CHERRY 1970 fastback (like this one: https://www.coyoteclassics.com/vehicles/393/1970-ford-mustang-fastback). I asked the gentleman if he happened to have tools on him and he did. I tighten down the accessory bolts and then go to tighten down the ring terminal and this. HAHAHAHAHA!
End up using an adjustable wrench to compress the radius of the ring (now C?) terminal around the post. I use the tire iron to get it down on the post just right. I drive the 5 miles home as slow and queitly as possible and unbelievably thankfully make it.
In the end my belief is the battery wasnt charging properly because of a loose accessory connection to the ring terminal, same with starting ... not getting enough surface area to draw enough amperage. I am buying the ones noted below and will get this complete next week.
As for battery to get, and specifics on which Group 65 and where?
Battery to get: Group 65 and will fit into stock tray.
Bought these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74098
Snow is back in action for the season. However, the start of the season was a bit tricky. How about a nice long n00b story?
Some context, I replace my old amp with a new one last year.
Battery was disconnected in the offseason but was still d-e-a-d. Its a stinky duralast, you can lecture me later. Got it running and charging, but I observed the battery wouldnt keep a charge right when using the radio. I also bought a trickle charger which stated it would fully charge after 6 hours. LOL, look like 3 days to go green! No worries, so I started taking around a battery jump pack with me and didnt play the radio much. Car was driving well after fixing the lower intake grommet with some black RTV. While the idle isnt perfect, its pretty good for now.
Yesterday I was headed out to the local car show. Across the street I got gas, not using the radio. Went to start it and it didnt start, starter was struggling. WTF. I figure its a crappy duralast battery and had already researched which batter to get (below). I pop the hood and this time finally notice that the accessory bolts on the battery terminal were loose, DUH!
Go across the street to the car show. End up parking next to a CHERRY 1970 fastback (like this one: https://www.coyoteclassics.com/vehicles/393/1970-ford-mustang-fastback). I asked the gentleman if he happened to have tools on him and he did. I tighten down the accessory bolts and then go to tighten down the ring terminal and this. HAHAHAHAHA!
End up using an adjustable wrench to compress the radius of the ring (now C?) terminal around the post. I use the tire iron to get it down on the post just right. I drive the 5 miles home as slow and queitly as possible and unbelievably thankfully make it.
In the end my belief is the battery wasnt charging properly because of a loose accessory connection to the ring terminal, same with starting ... not getting enough surface area to draw enough amperage. I am buying the ones noted below and will get this complete next week.
As for battery to get, and specifics on which Group 65 and where?
Battery to get: Group 65 and will fit into stock tray.
Bought these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74098
Was wondering where you disappeared to. I’ve seen those type of terminals break like that and if they are a good terminal it’s usually due to being over tightened.
I don’t have them anymore as all the cable on both of my cars are lugs and I build all the cables. They time out like anything else so nothing magic about building your own. I had a hard start issue once and it was due to the battery to k-member cable (have a k-member to block cable so circuit is complete). Replaced the cable after a drop test and problem solved. Cut the insulation off the cable and the copper was green.
I don’t have them anymore as all the cable on both of my cars are lugs and I build all the cables. They time out like anything else so nothing magic about building your own. I had a hard start issue once and it was due to the battery to k-member cable (have a k-member to block cable so circuit is complete). Replaced the cable after a drop test and problem solved. Cut the insulation off the cable and the copper was green.
Long time no talk. Hope all is well with the Foxbody crew
Im having a hot start issue. Note, only with hot starting. Cold start is always fine.
What im seeing is when I attempt to start hot, the starter will not move (get clicking like a dead battery) or crank super slow. In the cases of a slow crank, it will eventually start up.
I originally thought this was a battery, ground, connection problem, it is not.
I have read that this issue can be a combination of timing being off and a starter going bad. I believe it is the original starter and is currently at ~140k miles. I also believe I have a timing issue as i am still having a fast idle.
I believe my timing issue is when I re-assembled the top end my distributor is off by a tooth or two. Could this be the case?
My plan is to feel confident about the timing and then replace the starter.
Thoughts?
Thank you
Im having a hot start issue. Note, only with hot starting. Cold start is always fine.
What im seeing is when I attempt to start hot, the starter will not move (get clicking like a dead battery) or crank super slow. In the cases of a slow crank, it will eventually start up.
I originally thought this was a battery, ground, connection problem, it is not.
I have read that this issue can be a combination of timing being off and a starter going bad. I believe it is the original starter and is currently at ~140k miles. I also believe I have a timing issue as i am still having a fast idle.
I believe my timing issue is when I re-assembled the top end my distributor is off by a tooth or two. Could this be the case?
My plan is to feel confident about the timing and then replace the starter.
Thoughts?
Thank you
When you time the motor pull the spout connector and set it at 10 deg BTDC. If you cannot get it there then it’s off a tooth one way or the other. My bet on the hot start issue is the starter. I will say that if the battery cables are original I would voltage drop test them as one or all could be bad.
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