So, Should I T-5 Swap It?

[Mstng93SSP]

OK, my little $500 project car has an AOD which shifts very firm (tire barking 2nd gear shift) but it shifts into third WAY too soon, and also has a shudder that I think might be the converter. I have a bell housing, a T-5, pedals, wiring harness, driveshaft, aluminum quadrant and even the shifter "hump" for the floor pan. All I need is the clutch/flywheel, and the clutch cable. I have done the swap before, so that's no big deal but the trans I have I bought used and was told its a "good shifting no issue" trans. I would hate to go through all the hassle of swapping everything over and then find out the trans is no good. The trans is out of a 92 5.0. Should I roll the dice? Is there anything I can check without tearing the trans down to give me a little more piece of mind that its good? It spins smooth and seems to not have excessive endplay.

Thanks

Chris

 

[elarm1]

I would split the trans and take a look way before installing it. There is a history of people pawning off old tired stripped geared bad syncroed T5's. I personally would do this while I am ragging on my AOD. No use in replacing something that is still working.

 

[deathb4dismount]

It depends on how much the trans is. I am going the other way myself and have the same worries, but for $200 for AOD with everything I'm not too concerned. What kind of power does your car make? T5's break easily

 

[Mstng93SSP]

It currently makes stock power, nothing serious.

 

[Omega]

Grab the tip of the input shaft and wiggle it. If there's any movement, it needs a rebuild. A bearing and synchro kit from Ford is about $200.

 

[RaggedGT]

Have you tried adjusting the kickdown cable?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Grab the tip of the input shaft and wiggle it. If there's any movement, it needs a rebuild. A bearing and synchro kit from Ford is about $200.

That's not really an accurate way to tell. A freshly rebuilt t5 will wiggle like this. If it doesn't, the input shaft preload is too tight.

Only ways to tell is open it up and inspect the synchro dog teeth and blocker rings.


Sent from my big ass iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

 

[90sickfox]

You could always take a fluid sample by dumping some fluid from the tail end....stand it up on the end if you have to. Take a couple white bounty paper towels and lay them over a container....the towel will soak up the fluid and leave the trash on the surface. Fluid should be red ( mercon dexron 3 trans fluid ). Some darkness is normal any metal flakes are a bad sign...especially if its silver glitter. The best spot to take fluid from is the drain plug...its on the side of the trans.

A little gray-like paste is normal in a small quantity....just light coating on drain plug. Goldish color usually means synchros shot.... Glitter means gears or bearings.

 

[Mstng93SSP]

Ok. I will check the fluid and input shaft. I know the car the trans came out of, but lost track of the car for a year or so. When I knew of the car it shifted fine. I'm sure that could have changed tough. As for the AOD, I have not really tried to diagnose the early shift problem yet.

 

[RangerJoe]

I pulled my G force T5 this week for a rebuild. Input shaft was still
nice and tight after 10 years. Gears looked great, synchronizers were worn, but the real tale was the dog teeth on the gears. These lititle boogers were were chewed up on gears 2 and 3, meaning I have to replace each gear. I have quickly learned that a rebuild is not as simple as buying a $300 rebuild kit.

The only way you are going to know for sure is to pull the cover and inspect.

Joe

 

[Omega]

Mustang5L5, If you can move the input shaft more than a few thousandths, it has way too much run out. Most likely the tip of the output shaft is worn.