Solid Flat Tappet?

BillaMustang

Founding Member
Jan 20, 2002
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Is a solid flat better than a hyd.roller?

I'm building a 331 with AFR 185's, 10.4 comp., VictorJR with 750DP etc..

I want to make gobs of power under 7000 or around there.

Its also drove a good bit around town also.
 
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Hydro lifters wont work at 7,000RPM. They will float, your going to have to go with a solid roller lifter setup or flat tappet. If it was me Id look to go solid roller.
Im now running a flat tappet setup on my car and they sound awesome, but constant valve lash settings.
 
Iowa91LX said:
Hydro lifters wont work at 7,000RPM. They will float, your going to have to go with a solid roller lifter setup or flat tappet. If it was me Id look to go solid roller.
Im now running a flat tappet setup on my car and they sound awesome, but constant valve lash settings.


He said under 7K. You can safely turn hydro. lifters to 6800.
 
I personally wouldn't run Hydro lifter over 6500rpm. Solid is the way to go. Hell, I put solids in everything. You DO NOT have to adjust them all of the time. I run my valves twice a year on my race motor and once a year on my street motor. They are never out of adjustment more than .001" or .002". If they were out of adjustment, that would mean something is wrong. Ford even put some solids in factory cars. There is nothing wrong with them. Don't be afraid of them.
 
I agree with dirt racer. I personally have solid lifter flat tappet cam. I only adjust my valves twice a year and they don't change much at all.As far as the lash is concerned. My car see's mostly street duty through out the year. It is not uncommon to see small blocks with milder solid cams rev to 7000-7200. They do it with ease. The benifits of a solid is the light weight lifters. Alot lighter then any hydro lifter will ever be.Yes there will always be more friction with a solid. But I'll take the friction over the weight of a hyd roller +I'll take the increased r.p.m.'s as well. Less weight in the valvetrain area benifits the whole valvetrain.