Some questions to Vortech owners

302GTS

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Apr 20, 2009
481
2
18
Largo, FL
Hey guys, I'm going to be getting my car up to my wanted power level pretty soon. I've never been a 'piece by piece' kinda guy, and I want to plan everything before I buy, so I don't have to buy things twice. I have a few questions and concerns. I want to keep the shortblock stock, I'm just about to roll 96k, and the motor is extremely healthy. My goal for power is 400 at the wheels. I know I want to keep stock displacement, and don't want to use nitrous, so boost is my only option here. I've decided to go with a Vortech V3, to avoid running oil lines to and from the supercharger.

NOW! What I need to know from you wonderful folks at Stangnet, is how to hit 400 at the wheels. I've searched the forums, and found that, most Vortech owners, with bolt-ons can put down around 330 or so at the wheels. I plan on doing a mildly budget-built top-end, with a ported GT40 combo (would like to avoid P heads), custom grind cam from FTI more than likely, ditch the FMU and stuff that Vortech will send, and go with a full upgraded fuel system along with an MSD setup. Would the ported GT40 combo be enough to hit the 400 mark? If not, what would be a more accurate guess as to what it could get to?

Next question is gear. I know a lot of guys say 'don't fear the gear', and just get an insane gear for any application, but a lot of boosted cars prefer something closer to the 3.55 or even a 3.27. I was looking more along the lines of a 3.73, and was wondering if that'd be a good gear choice for my combo? The car will be ran on drag radials year round (thank you, Florida!), so traction won't be too hard to come by hopefully.

If anyone has any other suggestions, comments, or words of wisdom, please feel free to chime in! This project will not be finished for a year or two probably, so I have plenty of time to plan and get everything right before I go through with it.
 
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before i put my 331 in i was at 390rwhp/360rwtq. that was with edelbrock performer 1.60 heads, f303 cam, rpm intake, 24#s with FMU. Any top end kit you build should get you around 300 then the blower from there will get you to 400 or close to it. I could have put 42s and a better tune and been over 400 easily enough.

I would spend less on the full fuel system and MSD setup and more on better heads. All you'll really need is a 255lph in tank and maybe a t-rex pump. the lines and rails will be fine for 400rwhp. Obviously injectors would need to be bought regardless. get 42s. the ignition really only needs a coil and 6al if you start running into spark blow out issues. you're going with a good cam so why skimp on the heads :shrug:

as far as the rear. I run 3.73 and am fine with it. If I ever break it, I'll probably stick 3.55s in there just to have a little bit more of a 1st gear.
 
Thanks for the quick reply, glad to hear that 400 could be attainable. TBH, I kind of want the GT40 setup preferably, because it's A LOT cheaper. There's a guy around here who does bang up port work for Fords, and I can pick up the heads + port work for $500 or a bit less, whereas AFR's or Twisted Wedges will run around twice that. Plus, I think it'd be nice to put down 400 horsepower and still be running 'stock' heads. :shrug: As for the cam, do you think a custom grind is necessary, or just overkill? I'd much rather save the cash and pick up an OTS cam, and would LOVE to retain the stock cam, just for that sleeper effect, but I don't know if that'll hurt the performance that much. Hitting the actual 400 mark isn't THAT important, that's just the goal in mind for this car in the future. I'm fine with 375, 380, 390, or a bit above 400. As long as I'm coming close to 400 at the tires, I'll be happy.
 
i agree with prokiller. i have 3.73 gears in my car as well and if anything i might put some taller gears in my car. my power band gets narrow fast and breaks the wheels loose quick. tires and suspension will be needed too if you want a low gear imo.
 
afr 165's, steeda #19 cam, 1.7 rr's, some springs/rods, TrickFlow Track Heat intake and spacer, 255 inline and 255 in tank,42 pound injectors, 6AL box and coil, methonal injection(Little band-aid for the poor block)and its cheap! lasted me a year on 1 gal for 7 dollars :D and boom 400+ hp lol...And its on a "safe tune" so to speak. I also run 3.73's and at the track wouldnt want anything else. With some no side wall nitto 315's i was able to get a 11.75 @ 122 :D...Any other question you got i got answers:D

Also did this with a V1. Running oil lines shouldnt keep you away from the amazing sound of a v1 ;p I was qouted all the same price for v1-v2-v3 and still went with v1. Cant help but smile when everyone thinks the world is coming to an end because your car is making scary noises.

And about my set up.went with an inline and in tank because i plan on going passed 450hp with this car. Also have a high flow inline fuel filter. Skip this cam and get a good tuner, there is no reason to go with this cam over anything else for (drive ability) A good tuner will get you going without needing certain parts.
 
afr 165's, steeda #19 cam, 1.7 rr's, some springs/rods, TrickFlow Track Heat intake and spacer, 255 inline and 255 in tank,42 pound injectors, 6AL box and coil, methonal injection(Little band-aid for the poor block)and its cheap! lasted me a year on 1 gal for 7 dollars :D and boom 400+ hp lol...And its on a "safe tune" so to speak. I also run 3.73's and at the track wouldnt want anything else. With some no side wall nitto 315's i was able to get a 11.75 @ 122 :D...Any other question you got i got answers:D

Also did this with a V1. Running oil lines shouldnt keep you away from the amazing sound of a v1 ;p I was qouted all the same price for v1-v2-v3 and still went with v1. Cant help but smile when everyone thinks the world is coming to an end because your car is making scary noises.

And about my set up. Skip this cam and get a good tuner, there is no reason to go with this cam over anything else for (drive ability) A good tuner will get you going without needing certain parts.
Was waiting on you to find this thread! :nice: Trapping 120+ would DEFINITELY be nice... After doing some more local research, I'm definitely going GT40 heads/intake, and probably an E cam - possibly custom grind depending on finances... The guy who ports heads I was talking about has hit the 300 mark on GT40's, and his current daily driver makes 283rwhp on E7's ported and milled by him! 400 at the tires should be no problem with a setup ported by him, and proper tuning/fuel work added to it. I plan on doing this combo right, and not cutting corners. I think I'll end up with 3.73's. I plan on running year round on Mickey's, so traction should end up coming just fine.
 
400+ is fun, not sure what im at now because the first time i went to the track i had to ask what the heck was wrong with the car. It ran a 12.7 lol....He did a little adjustment and BAM i picked up 10 mph and droped a second. With my combo he said there is still more in it but didnt want to push it untill i had another motor being built. next friday im going to the track with slicks! going to see if i can run some low 11's :D Anything faster then 11.50's and im kicked out so it should be fun.


And holy crap going from just about 101-102 mph in the 1/4 to 122 is insane lol....i actually got to use my brakes for once.


Good luck on the build man! Maybe mine will hold out and i'll pully it for 12 pounds and see what it'll do before it blows lol.
 
Was waiting on you to find this thread! :nice: Trapping 120+ would DEFINITELY be nice... After doing some more local research, I'm definitely going GT40 heads/intake, and probably an E cam - possibly custom grind depending on finances... The guy who ports heads I was talking about has hit the 300 mark on GT40's, and his current daily driver makes 283rwhp on E7's ported and milled by him! 400 at the tires should be no problem with a setup ported by him, and proper tuning/fuel work added to it. I plan on doing this combo right, and not cutting corners. I think I'll end up with 3.73's. I plan on running year round on Mickey's, so traction should end up coming just fine.

If you're stuck on letter cams, you want an F cam for a supercharger application. The E cam is basically for idle sound effects, and would definitely not be a "sleeper." Plenty run F cams on Turbomustangs and put down insane power with them.

If you want 400 rear wheel horse power, and you are going with a GT40 combo good for 275ish rwhp, then you'll need (400/275~1.46), or another half an atmosphere. I think the GT40 combo with 8-9 pounds of boost will get you where you need to be.

I wouldn't hesitate to use 3.73 gears in this combo.

Adam