Someone please help me!! Need help FAST

AznStanger3v · Jul 10, 2004

Something is terribly wrong!!! Last night, i changed to:

TrickFlow Street Heat
24# Injectors
76mm C&L MAF
70mm TB

Now, my car starts, but you need to hold the pedal down, and itll only rev to 1k at WOT. Im sensing the timing is so F'ed up. I know how to hook up the timing light, but i dont know where to shoot the gun from. I need STEP BY STEP as to what to do. No matter which way i turn the distributor, it wont hold an idle. Im dying inside. my spirits are shot to ****. im begging you, please help me. Me and my dad are so pissed off. I want to chuck that car off a bridge.

94TURBO5 O · Jul 10, 2004

Make sure all of the injuectors are plugged in snug and they are totally pushed in the intake. You will have to set your idle screw and ajust that screw on the top of the tb where the tps is. Shoot you timing light at the indicator, located on the crank pulley at the 10 o'clock position.

jacob9 · Jul 10, 2004

17yrOldStanger said:
Something is terribly wrong!!! Last night, i changed to:

TrickFlow Street Heat
24# Injectors
76mm C&L MAF
70mm TB

Now, my car starts, but you need to hold the pedal down, and itll only rev to 1k at WOT. Im sensing the timing is so F'ed up. I know how to hook up the timing light, but i dont know where to shoot the gun from. I need STEP BY STEP as to what to do. No matter which way i turn the distributor, it wont hold an idle. Im dying inside. my spirits are shot to ****. im begging you, please help me. Me and my dad are so pissed off. I want to chuck that car off a bridge.

why are you getting so worked up over such a small thing. all you guys did was install a couple of basic bolt-ons.
here's my advice and it only involves one step. wait until monday, and take it to your local mustang speed shop. problem solved!

Stangfreak95 · Jul 10, 2004

Did you remove the distributor ?You might wanna trythis. I only done this once but I hope you'll understand my explanation. First, you need to rotate the engine (by hand) until you're at TopdeadCenter.(piston#1 is at top). To do this easily, take your spark plug #1 out of the head. Stick your finger in there to block the hole completely. Rotate until you're feeling air pushing your finger "out". Keep on rotating until it'd done "pushing". A few seconds are in between when you start to feel it and when it stops pushing. Look at the crank and back it up til you put it at 0*(or TDC..not sure what written there). It should be fairly close anyway. At that point, you're at TDC. Put the spark plug back.

Take the top of the distributor off. The rotor SHOULD BE POINTING AT THE #1 spark plug wire (its written on the top of your cover anyway). If it's not pointing, then your timing is off. You'll have to take the dist. out, move the rotor with your hand, and put it back in. You might not get it on your first try. Its absolutely needs to be pointing the #1 wire. After it's pointing, now finish it with the timing light. You're scanning the balancer. If your marks are dirty, clean them. I suggest you put liquid paper on your 10* and 12* and 14* or whatever you might wanna try as timing. Just fill the marking lines. Dont put that stuff everywhere. The timing light will be seeing the marks very easily now.

Before you start using the timing light, take the spout out.(while the car is NOT running. ANd put it back in when you're done while the car is NOT running also)

jacob9 · Jul 10, 2004

you guys are being very helpful and giving advice that is 100% correct but i'm not sure he will be able to pull it off. he's probably better off letting his local speed shop fix it right the first time.

blksn955.o · Jul 10, 2004

as far as the timing notches go while you are rotating the crank to TDC as stangfreak95 said, get some kind paint,grees pin, I used testors model paint in the little jars. Mark the 10* mark on the ball. so you will be able to see the thing with the light it is hard to see anyway. I even got another color out and painted a mark at 14* for a quick ref. and ease to bump it up/check.

yellow5.0cobra · Jul 10, 2004

damn jacob... do you think this dude is a real idiot?

he obviously got **** together on his car... but problem is he screwed something up...

no i say he is capable of fixing it.

do you bring your car to the shop the second something minor happens?

yellow5.0cobra · Jul 10, 2004

listen, make sure your at TDC, the way you do this is take out ur cyl #1 spark plug(first one on the pass side, front)

the when u stab ur dizzy, make sure its pointed at the cyl 1 mark.

then on ur harmonic balancer, turn the balancer back or forth a little(forgot) till it hits 10*.

reinstall spark plug...

then wammm start the car. problem solved.

also make sure ur firing order is proper.

SaltWaterFish · Jul 10, 2004

Did you set the TPS voltage when you switched the TB? You should be able to find a how-to thread.

To set the timing, connect to the no. 1 cyl (first cyl on the pass side). Unhook the spout connector and start the engine. The timing pointer is on the right side of the crank pulley.

If your balancer is rusty it makes it really hard to read the numbers. I used a white paint pen to mark the numbers. Turn the dissy util it reads 10* BTC. Once set then turn off car and reconnect the spout. then start her up and rev it up.

See if this helps.

94TURBO5 O · Jul 10, 2004

yellow5.0cobra said:
damn jacob... do you think this dude is a real idiot?

he obviously got **** together on his car... but problem is he screwed something up...

no i say he is capable of fixing it.

do you bring your car to the shop the second something minor happens?

I agree that's why the forums are here. It is a great reference to go by whenever I run into a problem, there is always someone here with a similar exp or knowledge. Not everyone has a local Mustang shop in their area dude. It's obvious he didn't want to take it to a shop and do it himself in the first place or he would not even be worrying about this.

17/18 it will all work out.

94TURBO5 O · Jul 10, 2004

jacob9 said:
why are you getting so worked up over such a small thing. all you guys did was install a couple of basic bolt-ons.
here's my advice and it only involves one step. wait until monday, and take it to your local mustang speed shop. problem solved!

What about the 2nd step...shelling out $$ for labor he could of accomplished himself? You must do all the work on your car b/c this is such a small issue to you.

jacob9 · Jul 10, 2004

94SC50 said:
I agree that's why the forums are here. It is a great reference to go by whenever I run into a problem, there is always someone here with a similar exp or knowledge. Not everyone has a local Mustang shop in their area dude. It's obvious he didn't want to take it to a shop and do it himself in the first place or he would not even be worrying about this.

17/18 it will all work out.

we'll see. it should only take him an hour or less to follow the detailed steps everyone has given him. hopefully he will report back with good news.

jacob9 · Jul 10, 2004

94SC50 said:
What about the 2nd step...shelling out $$ for labor he could of accomplished himself? You must do all the work on your car b/c this is such a small issue to you.

in his original post you can tell that he was really pissed that his stang didn't work after he put the speed parts on it. rather than spend more time and aggravation troubleshooting, he could call it a day and stop wrenching.

On Monday he could have someone take care of all the issues for him. the reason why people work is that $ makes alot of problems go away.

he could also hunt, kill and cook his own meat. but itz easier to pay $ to have it served to you in a restaurant!

robertdale · Jul 10, 2004

You have a timing problem more than likely. I had the same problem when I did my heads and intake install and had the same symptoms. First do as everyone has said remove spark plug from #1 passenger front. Rotate the motor by had with a socket on the crank pulley or have someone inside the car bump the ignition switch little at a time till you feel the pressure blow on your finger that is covering the sparkplug hole. Next look at the balancer you the pointer should be near the 0* mark you may need to rotate the motor by hand to be at exactly 0*. Then put spark plug back in and remove spout connector plug near the mass air harness on the passenger fender. Hook the timing light up to the #1 plug wire and to the battery. Then remove the distributor cap just far enough to see the erotor and where it is pointing , see if the rotor is pointing towards the #1 plug wire terminal on the cap as it is almost setting on the distributor. If it is way off then pull the distributor out and turn the rotor so that it is lined to #1 terminal on cap. Then replace cap and put dist. bolt back in slightly tight but able to be turned. now start the car and it should run better. Point the light from the passenger front of the motor so you can see the strobe on the balancer and the timing numbers turn the distributor so that the pointer is pointing to 10* BTDC. You may need to use chalk or something to put a mark on the balancer at 10*BTDC so you can see. Then tighten the distributor an dput the spout plug back in and start. Set the idel . Hope that helps

VIPERn94Five-0 · Jul 10, 2004

hey man, take your time...dont rush things...if you need to take a break...go grab a burger and fries with a buddy sit back and relax for a bit....it will do wonders when your having problems with installation of parts....follow the instructions for finding TDC #1 and check the rotor position etc....get that all lined up and the timing will be close, but damn close enough to start fine....through the light on it while its running and set it exactly where you want it....then button it all back up and your set....just remember to take your time and relax....the first time doing your timing can be frustrating....

Anthony

AznStanger3v · Jul 10, 2004

do i need to feel for the air or can i just put the balancer at the 0* mark?? seeing how i pulled the balancer when i replaced the timing cover, i never payed attention to the marks. what if i put it on the crank and it not even right?? by right i mean what if 10*BTDC wont show up on the balancer but the crank is actually 10* BTDC. is that possible??

AznStanger3v · Jul 10, 2004

VIPERn94Five-0 said:
hey man, take your time...dont rush things...if you need to take a break...go grab a burger and fries with a buddy sit back and relax for a bit....it will do wonders when your having problems with installation of parts....follow the instructions for finding TDC #1 and check the rotor position etc....get that all lined up and the timing will be close, but damn close enough to start fine....through the light on it while its running and set it exactly where you want it....then button it all back up and your set....just remember to take your time and relax....the first time doing your timing can be frustrating....

Anthony

yeah, all the cars ive worked on at work have all been computer controlled timing. im super frustrated so im sitting back for a little bit. i hope everything works. thanks a lot to everyone on here, even jacob. i dont blame jacob for what hes saying, bc it makes sense. but i have to learn it on my own, otherwise ill never be wiser.

VIPERn94Five-0 · Jul 10, 2004

oh man....your gonna need to feel for the air then....and then your gonna need to mark your own balancer...or pull the balancer back off and set it right...timing needs to be pretty exact and you need an accurate balancer for that.....

Anthony

Stangfreak95 · Jul 10, 2004

The balancer can only go on the crank one way so if it'S on there, you put it ok. There's a notch in it I think. At least the stock go on there one way only. As for the "air feeling", I suggest you do it. Takes 2 minutes. You cant just put it at the 0* because the engine might not be in "compression mode" or something else...Sorry for my lack of terms but I dont know that much about engines. Crank it many times with your hands until you feel pressure on your finger. It is really obvious once that happens. When there's no more pressure, back it up a little until you reach 0* You'll be at TDC

VIPERn94Five-0 · Jul 10, 2004

Stangfreak95 said:
The balancer can only go on the crank one way so if it'S on there, you put it ok. There's a notch in it I think. As for the "air feeling", I suggest you do it. Takes 2 minutes. You cant just put it at the 0* because the engine might not be in "compression mode" or something else...Sorry for my lack of terms but I dont know that much about engines. Crank it many times with your hands until you feel pressure on your finger. It is really obvious once that happens. When there's no more pressure, back it up a little until you reach 0* You'll be at TDC

yeah, just do that.....it wont take much time like said and it will make it so its spot on...when it "pisses" air(how RIO explained it to me ) then your right there....

Anthony

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