Sound deadener project

[jcode68]

I realy want to resolve the rattles and noises in my 68 FB and am planning to do a complete interior sound dampening project and am looking for opinions. What are the best products to use and why? Have seen some spray on as well as peel & stick (Dynamat, B-Quiet etc) but am not sure what to use. What are you guys using and how much material am I going to need to do this job right? Thanks in advance.

 

[truck90278]

Check out "quiet ride". their product consists of 2 items, 1)Dynamat and 2) foil backed insulation. The insulation is precut to fit into the car, saves a lot of time. It is a little pricey ~ $650 for the full interior and trunk, but works well

 

[73vertstang]

I've started doing the inside of my 73 with a product from Summit called Hush-a-mat. I went with this only because of the price. The Dyamat product seemed a little expense. If I had known about Lizard Skin while the car was still in the paint shop (still taped and papered) I would have spent the money. It's about 200 for a five gallon bucket and they suggest 2 for a car. They also want to sell you a spray gun for about 189 (Has a larger nozzel) This Hush-a-mat is not bad to work with. I leave 3 or 4 sheets in the sun for 15 minutes and it's soft and eazy to work with. I'm about 1/2 done and will cost me about 300. This is from the firewall to the trunk. In the pict I attached you can see a little of it on the tunnel. Hope this helps.

 

[Blue Oval Man]

We used Lizard Skin on the 68 Fastback. Did the complete interior, floor, roof, quarter panels, in doors, etc. as well as the undercarriage and firewall in the engine compartment. This took 3 pails but we put it on thicker than suggested in the trans tunnel and firewall areas. Haven't got the car on the road yet so I can't say for sure how well it worked but from the sound of the metal it sure sounds like it will be a lot quieter.
David.

 

[Rusty67]

Get read to read... A LOT


http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

[65kcode]

Get read to read... A LOT


http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

I read this a couple of weeks ago, very informative. Good stuff.

 

[69PaleHorse]

This sound deadening/insulation question seems to come up a lot. A long while back there was a post that included a link to an alternative for lizard skin. Seems the guy used 'micro spheres' mixed with latex paint instead of a more expensive product and was very pleased with the results. I bookmarked the link...

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html?referrerid=65148

 

[jcode68]

I appreciate the responses. I came across that sound deadener showdown article the other night and it was over the top helpful . That guys likes to write, but am glad there are poeple out there who do these writeups. I think I am going to stay away form the spray on products simply because of the mess and what's involved in the application process. I am looking at the main products that compete with Dynamat to reduce the expense a bit. I plan to do everything but the roof (don't want to pull the headliner), so would like to know how much product I should plan on using. I want to cover from the firewall back to the trunk - everything, as well as inside the door shells. I will measure if needed, but figured if some of you have already done this, you would know the amount needed to do the job right.

 

[bacfire]

I looked at all the commercial stuff and decided to try a redneck option. I went to Lowes and bought some Kool-Seal, the white elastomer stuff they use to seal up roof flashing, trailer roofs, etc. I can't see a lot of difference between these types of products and the brush on/spray on sound deadeners on the market, and according to some of the "showdown" type websites, max contact between the surface and the product is a major player in effective sound deadening. You can't get much better contact than painting this stuff on.

Anyhow, I tried it on a piece of sheetmetal and it seemed to work pretty well, so I brushed it on the doors, trunk, and rear seat area of my '66 coupe. Had to put on 5-6 heavy coats (over a three-day period) to get a thickness I was happy with. Of course, I don't really have anything to compare it with, but there seems to be a pretty significant reduction in noise and resonance. The only real drawback was the 3+ weeks it took to get all the paint-like smell out of the car.

 

[Decurion]

So where could a person get the RAAMmat mentioned in the comparison? Seems like its the best deal.

 

[65kcode]

So where could a person get the RAAMmat mentioned in the comparison? Seems like its the best deal.

http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr

Kevin

 

[NasaGT]

I've started using "Thermo-Tec Cool It"

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=THE-14620&N=700+400356+115&autoview=sku

Its just like Dynamat Extreme but much cheaper. Dynamat Extreme seems a little heavier if you hold two equivalent sized pieces at the same time, but its close. So far I've been very pleased with the Thermo-Tec product.

 

[JC6715]

I looked at all the commercial stuff and decided to try a redneck option. I went to Lowes and bought some Kool-Seal, the white elastomer stuff they use to seal up roof flashing, trailer roofs, etc.

To make the redneck version a little more hi-tech you can get the Kool-Seal Xtra-Lite. It is similar to Lizard Skin as it has the microspheres in it. If the Kool-Seal works well, the Xtra-Lite would work really well.

Disclaimer- I haven't actually used it yet, but from reading on other forums, sounds like a very economical effective alternative.

The only place I've seen it is in Ace Hardware stores, $90 for a 5-gallon pail.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/...eal+xtra-lite&origkw=kool+seal+xtra-lite&sr=1

 

[88gt]

My local audio shop guy told me to start with minimal amounts of sound deadener, drive the car (if possible) and add as needed to get the desired sound deadening. A full box that is required to cover the entire floor/trunk area of my fastback would add too much weight and cost more than I care to spend for the stuff. They use Hush-mat, I've got (4) 1'-0 x 2'-0" sheets in the car currently and need to get it on the road before I know if I need to add more. Hell...it's a weekend driver, does it really matter?? Exhaust will probably be too loud to notice anything rattling...

 

[STSFCTN67]

The best way to get rid of all the rattles and noises is to get a complete interior screw kit. These cars are way too old to have all the original screws left. Admit it most of us can take the complete interior out by ourselves in less than an hour.