Spark Plugs, Beam Torque Wrench?

gt03gt93

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Jul 31, 2009
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Has anyone used a beam type torque wrench without issue on changing their plugs? I ask because I have heard that beam type torque wrenches are not well-suited to working in tight confined areas as you need to turn/twist them a certain way to get an accurate reading. I've never used a torque wrench before and would like to know if using one for changing plugs would work fine. Thanks.
 
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Has anyone used a beam type torque wrench without issue on changing their plugs? I ask because I have heard that beam type torque wrenches are not well-suited to working in tight confined areas as you need to turn/twist them a certain way to get an accurate reading. I've never used a torque wrench before and would like to know if using one for changing plugs would work fine. Thanks.
There's nothing wrong with that type of torque wrench. I own the beam type and the "clicker" style. On the "beam" type the handle will pivot from side to side. As you begain to use the torque wrench, try to keep the squared up in the middle and watch the beam pointer. You'll see what I mean. Follow the instruction that come with the wrench. I does that a little practice with this type of wrench. Pearl02.
 
I have a beam... would like to buy a clicker but the money isn't there right now. I get free Snap-On tools from school next year. I'm definitely going for a couple clicker style torque wrenches.

The beams are fine. I've been using one for over 10 years.
 
I don't use my clicker style torque wrench for the plugs - I just put my hand way up on the shaft of the socket wrench (so as to limit my ability to over-torque), get em snug, then give em a little more umph. It's more of a feel thing for me...snug enough to stay but not too tight. I change plugs 2X a year, so I get to check em out often. I've never had an issue with any of the Mustangs we've owned.
 
whats up with ppl buying these frikin torque wrenches for frikin plugs.
sheesh, just tighten that sucker up till it wont turn any more by moderate pressure, than apply one last snugger upper...
 
I don't use my clicker style torque wrench for the plugs - I just put my hand way up on the shaft of the socket wrench (so as to limit my ability to over-torque), get em snug, then give em a little more umph. It's more of a feel thing for me...snug enough to stay but not too tight. I change plugs 2X a year, so I get to check em out often. I've never had an issue with any of the Mustangs we've owned.
+1

Using a torque wrench on the plugs is over complicating the task IMHO.
 
Given all the plug blow outs you read about, in my eyes it pays to know that I have truly hit the correct torque spec, and I wouldn't say it adds much complication to the procedure. All I do is pull off the plug wire, blow out the well with compressed air, take out the old, start the new plug with the socket and my fingers, then once it is started I ratchet it down to snug and finish it off with the torque wrench. Maybe an extra 10-15 seconds per plug.

Regarding the beam style wrench - there is nothing wrong with using one. I prefer the clicker style because it can ratchet which makes it easier to use in a tight space.
 
Given all the plug blow outs you read about, in my eyes it pays to know that I have truly hit the correct torque spec, and I wouldn't say it adds much complication to the procedure.

I fully agree.

For plugs I wouldn't use the same 1/2-in drive, 250 ft-lb torque wrench I use when I tighten lug nuts. Simply not enough accuracy at very low torque values for things like plugs. Given the number of fasteners rated in the in-lb range on the car, I think investing in a decent 3/8-in drive wrench (something like this, for instance) would be money well spent. I'd use it to tighten the plugs accurately to ~156in-lbs (13 ft-lbs).
 
Um, to those questioning the OP's usage of a TW for the plugs, with the mod motors (aluminum heads and 3 freaking threads for the plugs) torqing them is a NECESSITY. On my foxes, it would never cross my mind to have used a torque wrench, and never did I use one. Mod motors--different story. With minimal searching here, one will easliy see why using a torque wrench is a necessity!
 
Why with limited threads, does it matter whether you torque em to spec as opposed to simply torquing em with feel...? One issue is not resolved by the solution provided...

LOL, Simply search the board for "spark plug blowout" or even google it. Theres TONS of occurances on this topic. If that doesnt reassure you that its not something to take lightly, then I dont know what else to say!
 
Everyone here has already heard of spark plug blowout...

I use the german torque spec, goodntite.

Seriously though I go snug plus 1/8turn. I check my plugs fairly often when I am using copper. And change them out too frequently just because I want to try a different plug... Never had one be too loose or too tight and I do not use a torque wrench...

However I would say if you have the time and the tool go for it if ya want. Nothing wrong with being extra precise...
 
i dont use a torque wrench on plugs..and i didnt use one last week when i did my plastic intake manifold.. all this is a load of crap unless your doing engine work or something thats real sensitive. go talk to someone who does this for a living.
Im confident most ford techs dont use a torque wrench on 2v spark plugs or manifolds...
 
Um, to those questioning the OP's usage of a TW for the plugs, with the mod motors (aluminum heads and 3 freaking threads for the plugs) torqing them is a NECESSITY. On my foxes, it would never cross my mind to have used a torque wrench, and never did I use one. Mod motors--different story. With minimal searching here, one will easliy see why using a torque wrench is a necessity!

Why with limited threads, does it matter whether you torque em to spec as opposed to simply torquing em with feel...? One issue is not resolved by the solution provided...

LOL, Simply search the board for "spark plug blowout" or even google it. Theres TONS of occurances on this topic. If that doesnt reassure you that its not something to take lightly, then I dont know what else to say!

I'm not questioning the OP if he wants to use a torque wrench on his plugs; I'm just saying it's completely unnecessary.
Why is a torque wrench a necessity? Do you believe that torquing the spark plugs to a certain measured number will prevent blowout? You cited the limited threads on the Mod Motor, but I fail to see the connection between using a torque wrench and not enough threads..?
I'm sure I'm not the only one who has never used a torque wrench to install their plugs and never had an issue doing so.
Your argument has no merit.
 
I'm not questioning the OP if he wants to use a torque wrench on his plugs; I'm just saying it's completely unnecessary.
Why is a torque wrench a necessity? Do you believe that torquing the spark plugs to a certain measured number will prevent blowout? You cited the limited threads on the Mod Motor, but I fail to see the connection between using a torque wrench and not enough threads..?
I'm sure I'm not the only one who has never used a torque wrench to install their plugs and never had an issue doing so.
Your argument has no merit.

I agree with you. I changed my plugs out yrs ago before I joined Stangnet. I never used a torque wrench to install plugs. All I do is snug them up. I don't over torque them. I was paranoid about the plugs once I started to read about plug blow out. 2 guys that I work with have had plug blow outs. Both guys own 99 F-150 pickups with well 100,000K on them. They didn't know anything about plug blow outs on these engines. I also did some more reading and found that most auto makers have had plug blow out problems. This is not just a Ford problem. I do check my plugs now twice a yr. Funny, I never done that before. I've decided if a plug blow out happens, it'll be time for new heads and cams. I hope it doesn't happen but if it does I'm financially ready for it (I'm old but I look good :D). I do understand if someone wants to take extra precautions to help prevent a plug blow out. Pearl02.
 
Ludicrous. It's not like using a torque wrench on these engine's plugs is difficult: The plugs are right at the top of the motor, access is simple and straight and a decent torque wrench isn't even that expensive. I can think of situations where access with a T/W would be difficult if not impossible without major surgery (e.g. last-gen Firebird/Camaro) but for the mod motor, it's so freakin' easy why not simply do it right?

I mean, if you're a professional mechanic answering to a dickhead shop foreman cracking the flat-rate whip and every second means money, I guess I can see the "rule of thumb" 1/16-turn for aluminum heads being sufficient though I think you open your shop up to liability claims in the event of a plug blowout by having emphasized quick over "right"... Whatever. But for shadetree mechanics with a beer on the rad support and a buddy or two over shootin' the **** in the garage on a lazy Saturday afternoon, why not simply take a few extra moments and just do it right?
 
Good god. Using a torque wrench on plugs or lugnuts just sets you up for a failure. It's just a number, nothing more. You can still screw it up by relying on a tool to think for you.

Plugs see very little tendency to back out unless they aren't even tight to begin with. As has been said, finger tight then snugged with a rachet. And snug does not mean "that bitch ain't EVAR coming out!" It means snug. You could still turn it in farther easily by leaning on it, but there is no need. You aren't holding a head on or preventing your wheels from flying off, you are merely threading something in so it seats and seals.

And even if you are fastening on your head or wheels, you still don't need a breaker bar or gorilla strength. If you tend to strip or break bolts because you mindlessly apply all your force to each and every fastener, torque wrenches were made for you. The rest of us reasonable souls get by using common sense and basic arm strength for fastening. Body weight is only used for removal of stubborn/rusted pats, *not* attachment.