Spec Clutch and Clutch Cable Advice...

StangLou

Active Member
Jul 9, 2003
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36
Holly Springs, NC
Next month I hope to have my BBK LT's, Catted Mid, Spec Stage II Clutch, and maybe an adjustable clutch cable from Steeda.
My question is this... Is the Spec clutch any good? Ive seen a few posts on here about all the squeaking and sqawking these can cause. My shop swears they are one of the best clutches that they have.
Also, is the adjustable clutch cable worth getting? What advantages will it have over stock besides the obvious ability to "adjust" By the way lol what is "adjusted" when this is installed?

Thanks :nice:
 
I've got a SPEC 3 in my car..............no issues at all with it. Remember, you always hear the bad things that happen with aftermarket products but rarely do you hear about the good things.
 
STage one in mine. Bent finger on the pressure plate thats causing all the grinding/vibration. Tranny shops denies responsibility but a reputable mustang shop who did my gears told me its the installers fault, not specs.

I've only heard great things about SPEC, and they treated me nice over the phone, so I am leaning towards believing it was my installers F-up.

FYI: When my car was stock, it had ZERO issues with clutch chatter/vibration/etc
 
I got a Stage 1 grabs like a mofo, and i also got a fidanza aluminum flywheel behind it, veryvery nice combo, def. improvement in the car. proper break-in 450miles, u will tend to smell a lil clutch during the break in
 
Dan and you other guys that have posted about breaking it in... what do I have to do to "break" the clutch in. Just no hard driving for around 500 miles or what? I know it needs to settle, but after everything was installed, I wanted to do a few dynos to get my a/f right and see what extra hp the L/T's and mid pipe gave me.
Should I wait on the dyno or what? Is this clutch breaking in a lot like gear breaking in... some say you have to do it, other say the best way to break them in is to tach it up and sidestep the clutch. Just curious, dont want to cause any more harm than needed, this is my daily driver lol :D.
 
I called spec and they told me you can go above 3000rpm, and that it actually would break in the clutch faster. When they say you need to break it in, it means feather the throttle, no jabbing the gas, and easy shifts.

I too thought you had to stay under 3000rpm to break it in but apparently it's just a myth, at least thats what the Spec Technician told me.
 
I haven't had my SPEC 2 in for 1000 miles & it vibrates & my Throwout Bearing whistles worse than it did stock. I'm thinking about getting a Steeda adjustable cable/quadrant to see if that'll fix the sound. But 1st I'm going to my mechanic to see what he can do about the god-awful sound. I still like SPEC. I just want my car to be quiet again.
 
I was debating whether or not to go with a Spec 2 or a Mcleod stage 2. I know that the Spec 2 is hit or miss. If I were you, I'd just go for the Mcleod stage 2 because I have never heard any complaints about them. Don't settle for the organic when you can get kevlar in the stage 2. And a Spec stage 3 is overkill for street use and not necessary unless you have 450+ HP.
 
Ok, I didnt get it, why is the king cobra not good? I have seen people pulling the wheels up with a king cobra, so whats the problem? Alot of people rag on organic disk clutchs, but alot of experts say if you break them in right, they will last forever. I dont know. I almost think I would rather the organic.
 
downsouthman1 said:
You can't really overkill w/ a clutch.

Yes you can...getting a 4 or 6 puck clutch for instance in a daily driver isn't a smart idea unless you majorly beef up the tranny. If your clutch grabs too hard, it could break/snap things in your transmission. Remember, stock clutches are designed to slip a little on purpose for easier operation, but also to relieve stress off other working parts.
 
I just dont see how a clutch can be hit or miss like some of you say Spec is. I would think the hit or miss part would be who installed it and if they actually did it correctly. I dont know lol, Ive heard a King Cobra isnt much better feeling than stock. My stock one slips some now since Ive done a few launches here and there from around 3500-4000rpm. I just hate the fact that it feels like I have 5 or 6 inches to play with in the clutch pedal. Sometimes it grabs low and other times it will start to grab then relax and then grab after Ive let the clutch out a little more. I just want it to be dependable on the street, and track worthy when I start going in a few months.
Im hoping I wont regret the Spec decision :shrug: