Spout

FordGuy88 · Sep 18, 2008

When setting base timing Ive heard that you have to unplug the spout connector to stop the computer form changing timing. Now Im wondering what is the spout connector? Does any one have a pic of it, and/or where is it located?

Thanks,
Dave

5.0TailPipeHump · Sep 18, 2008

Its on the end of a wire that hangs by the distributor. http://img440.imageshack.us/my.php?image=timing1fe1.jpg

stang22 · Sep 18, 2008

New Page 1

This might help as well.

Tim

joel5.0 · Sep 18, 2008

FordGuy88 said:
When setting base timing Ive heard that you have to unplug the spout connector to stop the computer form changing timing. Now Im wondering what is the spout connector? Does any one have a pic of it, and/or where is it located?

Thanks,
Dave

'86 - '93 Mustang

FordGuy88 · Sep 19, 2008

OK. Thats what I thought it was. Thanks everyone.

ProjectX · Mar 24, 2015

Hello Everyone,
This is my first post on Stangnet. I am currently working on my 93 LX. My current issue is that when I set my base timing (10 degrees BTDC) and plug the spout connector back in, the timing does not advance. After doing some reading, I replaced the TFI and I still have the same issue. I talked to a guy at Ford Racing and he said it is either a bad spout connector or the PCM. I checked continuity of the spout connector and also jumped the connection with no change. At this point I am sure the spout connector is working and am thinking that the PCM may be bad (based on my conversation with the Ford Racing guy). I am hoping for additional info/input prior to replacing the PCM. I was thinking it could also be the wiring harness. Any idea where to go from here??

jrichker · Mar 25, 2015

Dump the codes and see what you get...

Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $22-$36.

ProjectX · Mar 25, 2015

jrichker said:
Dump the codes and see what you get...

Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on."

jrichker- Thank you for the reply,
I did dump the codes, they were as follows:

KOEO - 11
KOER 33 (EGR valve has been removed)
Got 4 flashes for 8 Cyl
Performed Balance Test - 9 flashes for OK

Also, the first time I did the KOEO test I got a code 85, but that code never presented again in the KOEO, or KOER tests which I have performed 3 or 4 more times.

jrichker · Mar 25, 2015

I was suspecting that you would get a code 18. See below for some of the wiring checks you can do to rule out problems in the SPOUT circuit wiring.

Code 18 - SPOUT out or wiring fault - look for short to ground in SPOUT wiring going
back to the computer. Possible bad TFI or defective 22 K resistor in the IDM wiring

Use a timing light to check the timing: remove the SPOUT and observe that the timing retards at least 4 degrees. Put the SPOUT back in place and observe that the spark advances at least 4 degrees.
This code can disable spark advance and reduce power and fuel economy.

Remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector.
There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place.
Disconnect the TFI module connector from the TFI and the measure the resistance between the yellow/lt green wire and ground.
You should see greater than 100 K (100000) ohms.
Check the resistance from Pin 4 on the computer connector (dark green/yellow) and the dark green/yellow wire on the TFI connector. You should see 20-24 K Ohms (20,000-24,0000 ohms). The resistor is located in the wiring harness about 6” from the connector. You will need solder and heat shrink to replace the resistor if it is bad.
Next measure the resistance between the yellow/lt green wire on the TFI module connector and Pin 36 on the computer connector. With the SPOUT plug in place, you should see less than 2 ohms.

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer connector.

This diagram is the wire side of the computer connector.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

ProjectX · Mar 25, 2015

This is great, Thank You. I will work on this tomorrow. My PCM is an A3M, are all of the pins the same as above??

jrichker · Mar 26, 2015

ProjectX said:
This is great, Thank You. I will work on this tomorrow. My PCM is an A3M, are all of the pins the same as above??

Yes. There is no difference.

ProjectX · Mar 26, 2015

Thank you jrichker,
Following are the results of the above tests:
Readings were 0 for all three tests.

In Addition I also tested the following:
connection location 20 of the computer end of the harness to disconnected negative battery cable = 0 ohms
connection location 40 of the computer end of the harness to disconnected negative battery cable = 0 ohms
connection location 60 of the computer end of the harness to disconnected negative battery cable = fluctuated between 1 and 20 K ohms

Your thoughts??
Seems like I need to pull the harness- if nothing else just to get at the resister, contemplating replacing it with a Ford Motorsport Harness (Any drawbacks to that over the factory harness??. The factory harness seems to have some issues, and it is 23 years old so I could justify it. That being said, is it normal to experience these issues or is it likely that there is some other underlying problem??

jrichker · Mar 27, 2015

If you look really closely at the engine diagram I posted you will find that the 22K ohm resistor is about 6" back from the TFI module connector. You get to very carefully peel back the wrapping of the TFI harness to find it. When you put it back together, be sure to carefully re-wrap the foil shield back around the wires. The foil shield prevents electrical noise from the spark plug wires from interfering with the signals the TFI sends to the computer.

ProjectX · Mar 27, 2015

jrichker said:
If you look really closely at the engine diagram I posted you will find that the 22K ohm resistor is about 6" back from the TFI module connector. You get to very carefully peel back the wrapping of the TFI harness to find it. When you put it back together, be sure to carefully re-wrap the foil shield back around the wires. The foil shield prevents electrical noise from the spark plug wires from interfering with the signals the TFI sends to the computer.

Is it 6" from the TFI connector, or 6" from the computer in the kick panel area?? Also, if using the Ford Racing EFI harness without this resistor, do you anticipate any problems??

liljoe07 · Mar 27, 2015

ProjectX said:
Is it 6" from the TFI connector, or 6" from the computer in the kick panel area?? Also, if using the Ford Racing EFI harness without this resistor, do you anticipate any problems??

Check over by the brake booster. Its not in the harness on the TFI, its on the main part of the harness over by the plugs that connect to the dash harness. About 6" or so from that, going back toward the EEC.

jrichker · Mar 28, 2015

liljoe07 said:
Check over by the brake booster. Its not in the harness on the TFI, its on the main part of the harness over by the plugs that connect to the dash harness. About 6" or so from that, going back toward the EEC.

Good info, I will remember that. The diagram seemed to point at the TFI module wiring.

For informational purposes, the if the resistor is marked with color code bands, they should be red, red, yellow and a tolerance band. See http://nearbus.net/wiki/images/7/7d/Resistor_color_codes.jpg for more help

liljoe07 · Mar 28, 2015

If I remember right, the resistor is covered in a shrink tubing that is sealed to the wires. So, you wont be able see any markings. The shrink tubing is labeled though. It's a 22kohm 1/2 watt resistor.

Here is the location.

shadow13 · Jul 22, 2020

Is this 22K Ohm resistor in 1995 5.0 Mustangs as well? Same pins (2 on the ICM and 4 on the ECM)? I tested this wire and got 1 which from what I understand is open. I have been trying to track down the cause of my 212 code Loss of IDM signal - short to ground in spark output (SPOUT) circuit.

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