stalling at stop sign or light

[bdog9seclx]

ive been fighting the surge dragon...car will sometimes stall at a light and when i got to resart it it hard restarts...why would it do that..and sometime it acts as if the battery was dead and wont start..it doesnt click tho.. but after a couple of tries it will roll over...checked lines tps voltage etc jus goin down the list...but thought the hard restart might be a clue thatr and the trouble starting back up...could it possibly be a loose connection on the starter to make it do that? optima battery was recently charged. All this happened after a K member install? im stumped. bad ground maybe?

 

[302RollinHard]

Bad Ground, or possibly a dead spot in your starter. I know it isn't the best way to fix things, but have you adjusted the set screw on the throttle body for the stalling problem. Mine had an intermittent running problem sort of like this and it turned out to be the ICM.

 

[HISSIN50]

when it wont even crank, are you sure the clutch pedal's safety switch is closing?

Jrichker's no start checklist will be helpful.

Good luck.

 

[bdog9seclx]

im gonna jack up the cr and check the grounds and starter connections.im also gonna check the battery cable it is located in the trunk so maybe its exposed along the way. Only sometimes does it not want to start tho.. i have set idle and tps before trying to fix it... ill update u l8r today thks for help

 

[jstang209]

i had the same problem.. turned out to be my ground cable that connect to the starter was really loose.. i tightened it up and no more problem!

 

[bdog9seclx]

umm check that out

Umm this might have something to do with it stalling/surging/hunting/hot starting... what sensor or valve is this and why isnt it plugged in the side of the oil pan? Just had a clutch in doubt they would take it out. would oil be shootin out of that driving? oil level said ok???

Theres always something....

ill reset computer let it idle for like 20 mins and see

 

[HISSIN50]

That looks to be the low oil level sensor. It has no effect on engine performance (it just lights a light).

Good luck.

 

[jaymac]

ive been fighting the surge dragon...

Kick 'im in the nuts! Works every time
Seriously, though, you need to pull codes (as in the other thread). Also, it sounds like it "might" be the TFI, except for the "not clicking" thing. Definitely pull up Jrichker's checklist...
One thing you can do if you re-check all the wires: Jack it up and on stands/ramps. Whle someone is cranking the key, if the starter still fails to crank, whack it with a BFH while the key is held in the START position. If it starts to try to crank, it is a dead spot (or spots) on the starter.
Also, does it only do this when the car is warm? I

 

[bdog9seclx]

only does it when it stalls then it hard resarts when it stalls...the was a smal oil spot on driveway and had rear main replaced with clutch... it had to be from that sensor and if oil gets out the crank case pressure has to be a factor...the starter most likely isnt the deal just electrical which can be soo many things...ugh all this happened after k member replacement and clutch replacement..but still was fighting sure before...cleaned salt pepper quote was alotta gel inside dont know if good or bad and replace the manifold to pcv tube was racked bad..also set tps...

 

[jaymac]

codes...but I think the TFI might be part of the prob.

 

[bdog9seclx]

what is the tfi? and where can i get the codes dumped?

 

[HISSIN50]

TFI = Thick Film Ignition. It is the ignition module - that grey or black module on the side of your distributor.

See Jrichker's reoccuring post for how to retrieve the troublecodes with a jumper wire/test light.

 

[jaymac]

I think he posted the list on your other post. If not, you can buy a code sanner at most auto parts store for $25ish...

 

[jrichker]

As requested...

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

 

[mustangsr46]

ground

I had a similar problem and it took me forever to figure out what it was. if its not the throttle positioning sencors, than try hooking up an extra ground wire. my lights were dimmer, and my turn signals would blick slow. when it got hot, it would sometimes stall and sometimes not start back up, sounding like the battery was dead. i replaced the ground wires and cleaned up the connections and haven't had a problem since. try a bigger ground wire from under the alternator and also the body ground that connects to the body from the passenger side head. good luck.

 

[jrichker]

See the sticky "Help me create the Surging Idle Checklist" at the top of the forum for help with your idle problems.

 

[bdog9seclx]

yes i have definetly already check out that great checklist...im jus tryin to cover all bases and also try to describe what is happening to better help finger it out. lol...im gonna get codes checked tommorrow at auto zone...

1st as i saw on checklist by jrichker i did the tps to .99 and set my idle and reset the computer. Still stalled and surged.

2nd I took of that cyliner shaped thing on the tb looked at it dont know what it is...should i replace that?

I did find in my salt pepper shakers a bunch of gel looking substance on most prongs i have pictures of it..i dont know if it was silicon gel or what but i tried to get rid of all that...is that normal?...reset computer and let idle...still did it.

then i found 2 hoses that were cracked and definatly leaking. replaced those.one back intake to pcv the other back of intake to brake booster. reset computer let idle for about 20 mins still stall and surges.

And when ever it stalls it hard restarts..why does it hard restart? i have to give it gas to start back up...sometimes longer than others...heres the thing sometimes when it stalls it wont even turn over after it stalls it doesnt click or anything the light jus dim and nothing happens... So to me sounded like a connection or something..my battery is in the trunk so i jus pushed the battery around mov3d it rather and got back in and it started... so i think im on to something with that. Maybe the starter red wire is shorting or loose maybe? Does that sound possible... Can a loose connection like that cause stalling after u stop at a stop sign or even surge? where could the loose connection be?

Also people have said check my tfi and iac..what and where are they ...thks guys for the help this site def is worth it.. Hopefully i can conquer this dragon.

 

[HISSIN50]

On JRrichker's surging idle sticky, I have one of the first posts under his original post. In it I posted a link to cleaning the IAC and setting the idle.

The IAC is a cylinder shaped housing on the front of the TB.

Good luck.

 

[bdog9seclx]

mustangsr46 it sounds like we might have had same problem...am i supposed to ground the wire to the tps sensor? or wut am i suppose to o ground? i think we are on to something...

 

[HISSIN50]

mustangsr46 it sounds like we might have had same problem...am i supposed to ground the wire to the tps sensor? or wut am i suppose to o ground? i think we are on to something...

The other poster is talking about your motor ground. I would use at least a 4 AWG cable (the cable gets bigger as the numbers get smaller. So 2 AWG would be bigger than 4 AWG).

BTW, this would have NOTHING to do with your TPS wire.