Stang shutsdown after startup

RUSH2112

New Member
Oct 13, 2004
22
0
0
Pittsburgh, PA
When I start the car it fires up but IMMEDIATELY shutsdown. I bought a new coil. The plugs, wires, cap and rotor were replaced last week. I replaced the IAC valve with a new one. I also replaced the TPS unit and still no luck. I replaced the fuel filter and I can manage to keep it going if I give it gas, however it sputters, backfires, spits, farts, burps and sounds like crap.

I do know the cat converters are possibly clogged and/or the OS sensors need replaced. Anyone have any ideas? HELP PLEASE!!!! What would be your next move?
 
If it ran good before you replaced all this stuff, I would check the firing order on the wires. also what did you gap the plugs to?
 
I would check the eec for codes. If you have a fuel press guage also check the pressure on the rail.
 
I had it in the Ford shop and no codes were found. I dont understand the crank thing. It turns over and will start, but I have to give it gas to keep it running otherwise it shutsdown. Also alot of exhaust is coming from the pipes and a bad, rich smell.
 
5.0Droptop said:
I would check the eec for codes. If you have a fuel press guage also check the pressure on the rail.


I dont have a fuel pressure guage, nor would I know how to check this. The Ford shop said it have good fuel pressure, but I guess it could have 'gone' since then. I am not mechanically inclined very much, nor do I know much about cars, so I am backed up against a wall here.
 
the regulater is on the passinger side behind the throttle body mounted on the fuel rail. right behind the salt and pepper shakers (10 pin connectors)
 
Sounds like the fuel pump or the regulator. The easiest way to remove the regulator is to pull the upper intake. Some folks with tiny hands and loads of patients will try it without pulling it, but that's not me. It is held on the fuel rail by 3 allen head screws. Before you try to take it off pull the vacuum line off it and see if fuel comes out. I am pretty sure that if fuel comes out it is bad. If you decide to replace the regulator, relieve the fuel pressure first. If it is not the regulator, I would suspect the pump.
 
RUSH2112 said:
Yes, it ran fine when i did the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. The plugs were gapped to spec. It just 'all of sudden' wouldnt stay running, so that's when I started changing all the other parts.

I would think that if it was running fine before you did your plugs, wires, cap and rotor, then that is where your problem is. I would first check your firing order - the order should be 1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8 in a counterclockwise direction. The number 1 cylinder is on the passenger side at the front, and goes 1, 2, 3,4 front to back, then 5, 6, 7, 8 on the drivers side front to back.
If that doesn't work, then you will need to recheck that you are at TDC on cylinder 1 when the rotor is at the #1 spark plug boot on the dizzy - that should be fine though since you didn't pull the dizzy I assume.

EDIT: I re read your post - I think what you said was that after you changed the plugs, cap etc it WAS running fine. If that's the case, then disregard what I have written above, although it is never a bad idea to recheck that stuff.

Howard