Started header install, removing hoses??

[Rynb15]

So i started the header install. Got everything off but it was a pain in the ass. The stock h pipe had to be cut off it was rusted so bad. Anyways on the new h pipe going on(actually used) the tube for the smog pump is smashed shut. So what should i do with that part that runs back up to the engine? Also the other black hoses in the same area that all connect together by the passenger side header i disconnected during the process. Should i put them back together? I really have no idea what they are. Is there a way to get rid off it all if it does not have to be there?

 

[vristang]

It sounds like you are talking about the smog pump lines. If your new midpipe does not have cats, AND you will not have to pass emissions testing, then it will be fine to remove the air pump and the associated lines. There are a couple of vac lines in this system, so be sure to cap them off.

Good Luck
jason

 

[Rynb15]

thanks for the info. What if i leave all the hoses there. What to i do with the one to the h pipe? Cap it?

 

[86bluecobra]

i pounded a big bolt into it. but capping it would work aswell.

 

[Rynb15]

thank you

 

[sn9550]

If you can cut the smashed part of the tube off (of the H pipe) and you still have some left use 3/4" heater hose to connect it back.

 

[vristang]

thanks for the info. What if i leave all the hoses there. What to i do with the one to the h pipe? Cap it?

I wouldn't recommend capping that hose unless you have already removed the air pump.
Capping that line with the pump in place will burn up the pump very quick.

jason

 

[tbi92rs]

I welded my X-pipe tube shut. As for the lines form the back of the head, i took the off, chopped them off, took a hammer (mini-sledge) and beat it shut, then had it welded up by a local muffler shop for 2.50

good luck, it makes everything CLEAN without that smog junk.

 

[jrichker]

Here’s some help (a bit late in your case) for removing the air tube from the H pipe...

Try removing the bolts from the upper mounting bracket at the rear of the engine, and then loosen the clamp on the air tube by the cats. Then get a BIG pair of ViseGrip pliers (you really didn't hear me say that), clamp down hard on the tube about 1 1/2" from the clamp and pound away on the ViseGrips. It will come off if you keep at it.

In really stubborn cases, drill a 1/8" hole all the way thru the air tube 1 1/2" from the clamp, put a nail, pin punch or whatever in the hole, seat the ViseGrips up against the nail or pin punch and pound away on the ViseGrips. This is a better method, as you can do the same thing in reverse to put the old tube back on, with some clever means to cover or fill the hole (weld, braze, sheet metal screws, hose clamps and hi temp hose, etc.).

A replacement air tube cost me $44 at Advance Discount Auto Parts, plus the air check valve didn't come with it - another $17, so reuse when and where possible if your money is limited.